Crossing the Border
Part 2 of our Western Road Trip.
The journey from Idaho to Canada takes us through Sherman Pass, where endless grasslands meet forest. It’s incredibly dry and the fire alert is high. We cross the border at Midway, where the border agent seems more surprised by our lack of firearms than our lengthy stay in the country.
Discovering the Okanagan Valley
We stop for a picnic lunch and walk around the lake in Osoyoos. It’s an interesting town with an eclectic mix of architecture, looks like something you’d see in south Texas or New Mexico. Continuing north, the Okanagan Valley reveals why it’s well known for its lakes, wineries and fresh produce. It’s a wine lovers dream with over 180 licensed wineries in the region. We pass farmstand after farmstand, all selling apples, pears, squash, honey, wine, ciders and other local goods.
We fall in love with this region, partly because the lake is so easily accessible and parking is free. Sun-Oka Provincial Park in Summerland offers the perfect beach with shady trees. In Peachland, we walk across the road and follow a walking path along the lake, dipping our feet into the ice-cold water.
Local Tip: In Peachland, find perfect parking near Lakeshore Gardens. You’ll get restrooms, shade and picnic spots away from the busy road.
Walking Myra Canyon
The Kettle Valley Rail Trail, specifically the Myra Canyon section, is what enticed us to Peachland. While others zip through on bikes, we savor Myra Canyon’s railroad trestles and tunnels on foot. The slow pace rewards us with breathtaking gorge views and a deeper appreciation for this engineering marvel.
As we drive through Kelowna (the town closest to Myra Canyon), we congratulate ourselves for choosing to stay in Peachland instead – Kelowna is much too busy and crowded for our tastes.
Mining & Rail Towns of BC
Our feet drag as we depart Peachland. Eric and I loved this location and don’t want to leave, but there is more to explore! We stop at the historic mining town of Ashcroft, where we visit a tiny Chinese cemetery that pays homage to the people who labored to build this town. We enjoy a quick coffee and Nanaimo bar at the local bakery as we ponder what it would be like to live your entire life in a town so small and seemingly stuck in time.
The drive to Pemberton along Hwy 97C begins barren and boring but quickly gets interesting when we reach the colorful sediment layers at Highland Valley Copper Mine. This is the largest open-pit copper mine in Canada and it’s truly a sight to behold. It’s the first time Eric and I have seen a tailings pond, which looks like a milky turquoise lake but is actually a containment area to store the waste leftover from the mining process. A good reminder that beautiful things can be deadly.
Just past the mine and the town of Ashcroft, we reach Marble Canyon, with its beautiful lakes surrounded by a kaleidoscope of colorful rocks jutting up from the water. The Seton Lake Lookout in Lillooet is absolutely gorgeous, despite water levels being low. Our last few miles on Duffey Road into Pemberton are even more stunning. This is one scenic drive not to be missed!
Pemberton: Where Cowboys Meet Adventure
Pemberton is like visiting a set from an old Western movie. There are of course modern buildings and new homes being built, but the overall impression is a mountain cowboy town, where people still ride up on horses to visit the local bar. We’re staying with a young couple who embody this place — people seeking active adventures away from the crowds. I just wonder how much longer they’ll have to enjoy this “escape” because it looks like new homes are popping up all over town.
While we had hoped to hike in Joffre Lakes Park, we have the unfortunate luck of being here during 1 of 3 annual closures. The First Nations who manage the park close it throughout the year to allow for cultural and ecological preservation. I love that they do this, just wish we had timed our visit better.
Our Airbnb host suggests an alternative which turns out to be one of the best trails we’ve hiked in BC – the stunning Semaphore Lakes. At just about 4 miles roundtrip, it’s a relatively short (but steep) hike to reach 3 glacial lakes. The lumber road to reach it is infamous for questionable conditions but patience and good tires is all that’s required to reach the trailhead.
We spend an afternoon at the Pemberton Library, which has the best travel and hiking section I’ve ever seen and it has a coffee kiosk. You can also rent Instapots, borrow from their seed library, and purchase art from local artists. Eric peruses (you guessed it), cookbooks! By the time we leave that library, our phones’ photo storage is maxed out with recipes and travel research.
Another hike we enjoy in Pemberton is One Mile Lake Loop combined with Nairn Falls Provincial Park. We walk a total of 7 miles to the falls and back. It’s not a difficult trail but it does have some ups and downs so it’s a great workout. Most of it is in shaded forest and there’s a nice spot to walk down to the river on the way to the falls where we eat lunch and cool our feet in the river.
Whistler: A Lesson in Research
After the authentic charm of Pemberton, Whistler hits like a cold shower. Expensive, crowded, and requiring gondola tickets for many trails — it’s not our scene. So we spend our time in Whistler working, reading and enjoying the cool weather on our balcony. Whistler may be too crowded for our tastes, but it is surrounded by beautiful mountains and lush forests. There’s a reason so many people are here.
Lesson Learned: Always do your research. This is the first time I didn’t research for a trip, because it was a well-known hiking destination. Had I spent time learning about Whistler, I would have known it wasn’t a good fit for Eric and I. I’m always so thorough when planning trips for clients, guess I need to do the same for myself.
Journey's End: Vancouver Island Beckons
The Sea to Sky Highway lives up to its reputation as one of North America’s most spectacular drives. Eric and I have driven some truly spectacular routes (Snowdonia in Wales, Durmitor in Montenegro, all of Faroe Islands) but even I can admit this road that connects Vancouver to Whistler is stunning! I especially love the section between Squamish and Vancouver, where tree-covered mountains open up to views of the islands.
On route to the ferry that will take us to Vancouver Island, we stop to hike in Murrin Provincial Park, which treats us to towering trees interspersed with massive rock walls and boulders. It’s popular with climbers and we stop several times to marvel at the patience and strength this activity requires.
My excitement builds as we line up for the ferry. We are about to reach our final destination, the island I have wanted to visit ever since I glimpsed it years ago when we visited the San Juan Islands. We spend most of our ride on the outside deck, noting each island as the wind howls around us and the sun begins to set. Someone across the ship says they see a whale and a scurry of people rush over, but Eric and I are content where we are. This quiet observation of wild Pacific beauty is all we seek.
Stick around for the next part of our journey as we explore Vancouver Island. Find out why we’re tempted to move here.
