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Asia, Hiking, Slow travel, Travel Diary, Walking Holidays

Tomogashima Island: the Day Trip You Haven’t Heard of Yet

April 13, 2024 No Comments

man hiking through abandoned bunkers on Tomogashima Island

Throughout our journey in Kyoto and on the Kumano Kodo, people were always surprised when we told them we were ending our trip in Wakayama City. As soon as we told them it was so we could hike on Tomogashima Island, their eyes lit up! The locals would say “I’ve always wanted to go there.” Which begs the question — why haven’t they visited yet?

Getting to Tomogashima Island

Getting there might be one of the reasons few tourists journey here. From Wakayama City, it takes 45min and 2 trains to reach the beach town of Kada, where you then walk .7mi (1.2km) to catch the Tomogashima Kisen ferry. You have to get to the ferry early to buy tickets, as you can’t purchase them in advance. We arrived at the ferry 45min early and there were already people waiting in line.

Trains: JR Kisei Line and Nankai-Kada Line (about $8 roundtrip per person)
Ferry: 1hr roundtrip ($15 per person)

We loved the train ride to Kada, it offered glimpses of the sea and we passed through several interesting coastal towns that I would have liked to explore. The bigger challenge with visiting Tomogashima is weather. It’s quite common for the ferry to not run, due to high winds. This presents a problem for tourists with limited travel days. I had been watching the ferry schedule 5 days leading up to our visit and they cancelled all flights the 4 days before. We were LUCKY the boats ran on our last day in Japan!

Tomogashima for Anime Fans

We were on the ferry with quite a few anime fans, specifically fans of the series Summer Time Rendering which features Tomogashima in its story line. I didn’t know this until someone from Oku Japan told me about it. Anime enthusiasts also believe that Studio Ghibli’s Castle in the Sky was inspired by the island.

I was here for the coastal hiking trails and abandoned military bunkers.

Military Ruins on Tomogashima

Tomogashima is actually a set of 4 islands within the Seto Inland Sea but everyone just calls the main island Tomogashima. The military ruins are from Japan’s Meiji era (1860s-1912) and it was used as a secret military base during WWII.

The abandoned buildings and creepy tunnels are truly what steal the show here.

Besides the military bunkers, there were bizarre sculptures, such as this mushroom-shaped bench which was near a campground covered in signs saying “beware venomous snakes!”

Fun Fact: There are peacocks on Tomogashima, imported to help control the venomous snake population. We never saw them, but we also never saw any snakes.

Just before arriving back at the ferry dock, this fish sculpture by artist Yuriko Okazaki caught our eye.

With all these fascinating things to see, I can’t forget the beautiful coastal views surrounding us throughout most of the hiking. Not to mention a lighthouse.

Tomogashima Island was the first place in Japan that we saw significant trash on the ground, most of which looked like it was storm debris from a previous tsunami. This added to the appeal, leaving a true sense of abandonment. It’s a magical place.

Making Friends in Kada

Once back on the mainland, we stopped for lunch at Ojiba in Kada. This tucked away store is a gem, I would travel to Kada just to visit it! The front is an antiques/gift shop, with a cafe in the back.

We were greeted by two women, and using Google Translate we were able to communicate that we wanted lunch. Eric ordered white bait and I ordered some kind of rice with colorful seeds and spices. Listening to Ella Fitzgerald, we dined in a home that felt like it was straight out of the 1940s. Eric and I agree, that was our favorite lunch of the entire trip. Every single dish on our tray was delicious and I kept saying “oh this is really good. Oh, this is even better. Oh, this is my favorite!”

I would love to know the story of Ojiba’s owner. We met her daughter, who had the most bubbly personality and gave us hugs and candy. With that kind of warm hospitality and the fascinating collection of American music albums, I’m quite certain I would equally love the mother.

The following morning, as I was taking notes at the airport and reflecting on our trip, I told Eric this was the first time I didn’t dread the travel day back home. I usually hate travel days as they are exhausting and physically uncomfortable for me. But transportation was part of the highlight of Japan, even the return journey seemed fun and exciting. Traveling to Japan rewired my brain in a way that other places seldom do. Or maybe it just added another layer to what I’ve already learned by visiting other countries. Either way, I returned home feeling refreshed and emboldened. That’s the power of transformational travel!

Asia, Slow travel, Travel Diary, Walking Holidays

Exploring Japan’s Wakayama Coast & Wakayama City

April 11, 2024 No Comments

tsunami evacuation sign in Kii-Katsuura Japan

Most people end their trip to Japan in a large city like Osaka or Tokyo, but not us. We like to find places that are popular with locals but not yet on the radar of international tourists. Wakayama City and the Wakayama coast fit that criteria, and our three days of exploring this region were some of the most fun-filled experiences we had during our time in Japan.

If you missed our previous posts about Exploring Kyoto and Food and Friendship on the Kumano Kodo, you may want to read those first.

Exploring Kii-Katsuura

Our walking tour of Kumano Kodo ended in Kii-Katsuura, a fishing town on the southeast coast of Wakayama prefecture. There’s not much to do in this fishing town, other than enjoy the wonderful onsen hotels with views of the ocean. But for curious souls who love to walk, it’s a fun place to explore for an hour or two.

Our first day of exploring began with me sipping morning coffee and watching the fishermen fillet tuna outside our hotel window. The efficiency and speed they exhibited was impressive, especially as they wrapped the tuna in paper and proceeded to clean the boat until it was spotless. All completed before I’d finished even half a cup of coffee.

After breakfast, we had about one hour before our train departed for Wakayama City, and we spent that time walking around the coastline. Other than fishermen, we saw few people. It was a brisk walk, with the smell of saltwater and sea birds calling from above. Like most port towns, the buildings are roughed up by harsh weather, adding to their appeal in my opinion.

On our way to the train station we stopped for quick shopping and roasted sweet potatoes. The transit/visitor center had a public foot bath where people soak their tired feet while waiting for the bus or train.

While munching on our roasted sweet potatoes, we watched a Mt. Sobek tour guide distribute packed lunches to her group of Americans. The group hailed from Colorado and Michigan, here to run in a Tokyo marathon and hike the Kumano Kodo. Their guided luxury hotel Kumano experience was completely different from our self-guided tour staying in small traditional inns. Just as our experience was different from the backpackers who thru-hike the entire route.

Which is why I always say “travel is personal.” How you experience a destination and what you get out of travel — that’s entirely up to you. We can all choose the same destination and experience it in completely different ways. While I was looking at the Mt. Sobek group thinking how sad for them to not enjoy searching for street food on their own, they were probably looking at us thinking “that poor couple, settling for potatoes.”

Riding the Train to Wakayama City

We loved the train to Wakayama City, with its uninterrupted coastline and sleepy little fishing villages. Kushimoto looked intriguing and I was sad that we didn’t get to explore Wakayama’s most southern town. The train ride was especially pretty near Iwashiro, which had the scariest looking station but the railroad felt like it was on the ocean.

INSIDER TIP: If traveling from Kii-Katsuura to Osaka, stop a night in Kushimoto to stay at Nipponia Hotel. For those seeking authentic culinary experiences in off-the-beaten-path locations, this is it!

Walking out of the train station in Wakayama City, it was quickly apparent that this was a business town full of locals and few (if any) international tourists. It’s closer to Kansai International Airport than Osaka, but most tourists choose to stay in Osaka. Their loss, because Wakayama City was delightful!

We arrived at Dormy Inn Premium Wakayama, where we spent 3 nights. I was happy to see our luggage waiting for us at the hotel, not a scratch or speck of dirt on them. I probably forgot to mention that during our 5-day Kumano Kodo tour, we only carried a small daypack with 1 change of clothing. Per guidance of Oku Japan, we left our luggage at the Kyoto hotel and used Japan’s excellent system of takuhaibin (takkyubin) which transports luggage all over the country. Hotel staff made it easy, all we had to do was show them the word takuhaibin and they took care of the paperwork.

Dormy Inn was an interesting place to end our trip. Aside from one other couple that looked like they were here on business, we were the only westerners. It was the first time I felt truly intimidated in the onsen, because all of the women here looked like pros. Each had her own routine and one looked like she was prepared for a marathon with a large water bottle that she would continually go back for to cool off and hydrate.

It was also the most luxurious onsen I visited. While showers were still exposed, there was a wall between each showering area, so I had a little more privacy and didn’t have to worry about spraying my neighbor with soapy water. The vanity area had higher end products and a fancy hair dryer that automatically changed heat according to how dry your hair was. The laundry machines were a different story. I ended up washing our clothes in the sink because I felt sure the 1950s era washer/dryer would eat my clothes.

Breakfast at Dormy Inn was excellent and creative. They offered a good selection of small bowl dishes, making it fun to try new things. The only yuck moment I had was when I bit into the baby squid and my mouth rejected the hard tiny eyeball and squishy tentacles. He discreetly made his way into a napkin. Our favorite, however, was free ramen night at 9pm, in which a room full of adults dressed in hotel pajamas scramble to grab a table. I felt like I was in college again.

Day 2 in Wakayama City was planned by Eric, the master at killing time and finding odd-ball places to visit. I should have known it would be interesting when our day began with an earthquake waking us ups. We spent 2 hours in Don Quixote, a 4-story discount shop that I cannot compare to any other store I’ve ever visited. They had everything you could possibly imagine and then things that you might not even be able to imagine. Like dried octopus on a stick, or Eric’s favorite — boob towels! Don Quixote is a chain that you’ll find in other Japanese cities, and yes, it’s named for Cervantes.

Next, we headed to the GENKI video game shop, where Eric and I discovered how very little we know about gaming. Definitely a fan shop, they had tables in the back for card game tournaments and display cabinets showing consoles older than us! We hit jackpot with a shopping list from my brother Matthew.

At this point we were hungry. The smell of grilled okonomiyaki wafted our way as we watched several people walk into Watashi no Teppan. So we followed. Completely different than what we had our first night in Kyoto, this was more like a traditional pancake — mine with cabbage and pork, Eric’s with seafood. We chose the dough version instead of the soba noodle version, which is what we had in Kyoto. A group of older women dressed in kimonos walked in shortly after us and were escorted into a more private area in the back with traditional Japanese seating.

Hunger satisfied, we walked to Wakayama Castle and Momijidani Garden. It only takes about an hour to walk the entire grounds and the best entrance is through the Ote-mon Gate, crossing over the moat surrounding the castle grounds.

We were there on a Saturday and there were families with young children, an elderly couple doing exercises, a group of young women having a picnic. We quickly walked through the zoo, which I only have two things to say about: it’s free and I wouldn’t want to be an animal in that zoo.

Like so many other castles in Japan, Wakayama Castle was rebuilt after WWII. America bombed it close to the end of the war. We visited a war memorial while we were there, and it struck me once again how resilient the Japanese people are. They survived unspeakable atrocities (and yes, I know Japan committed their own atrocities…that’s the history of humankind), but not only have they survived and thrived, they have welcomed the very people who bombed them.

Forgiven but not forgotten, Japan as a whole is a good example to the world of how to move on from tragedy while still honoring the memory of those who suffered.

Near the castle, we stumbled across an open field full of motorcycles surrounded by people selling used goods. The first chap we met was an Australian who chatted with us and gave us two free sake cups. He said they were over 100 yrs old and since I don’t really care to check for authenticity, I will take him at his word. Others were selling clothing and one guy was selling motorcycle parts. The attention grabber, however, was the crazy assortment of motorcycles.

Another surprise was a covered bridge, which had a sign instructing us to remove our shoes before walking through it. Each plank was staggered so it wasn’t flat, making this the most unique covered bridge I’ve ever seen. Frank Thompson would have LOVED this bridge.

Eric celebrated his birthday that day in Wakayama. It was a bittersweet morning, knowing he would not wake up at 6am with a text from his mom at the exact time of his birth. Instead, he awoke to a sweet video from my sister’s daughter Ada, singing happy birthday. His mom would be happy to know someone was carrying on her tradition.

I have a confession. It wasn’t just the local vibe and cool castle that enticed us to Wakayama City. It was a mysterious island, full of history and abandoned military bunkers. Find out what it’s like to spend a day hiking Tomogashima Island.

Asia, Hiking, Slow travel, Travel Diary, Walking Holidays

Kumano Kodo, Yunomine Onsen to Kii-Katsuura

April 10, 2024 No Comments

Although I would have preferred to walk from Yunomine Onsen to Shingu, there’s only so much you can fit into 5 days on the Kumano Kodo. So on our 5th day, we used several buses to visit the remaining Grand Shrines and to reach our final destination in the port town of Kii-Katsuura.

If you are just joining us on our Kumano Kodo journey, please begin with Post 1. Otherwise, keep reading…

Yunomineso (our inn) provided a free shuttle to the bus stop at Yunomine Onsen, where we hopped on the bus to Shingu. I didn’t mind the 1-hr ride because our views were gorgeous, following the turquoise Kumano River and mountains.

Arriving in Shingu, we quickly walked to the Kumano Hayatama Taisha, the primary reason for this stop as it’s the 2nd of the three Grand Shrines on the Kumano Kodo.

Shingu was a nice short stop, we enjoyed walking the narrow lanes through residential neighborhoods and along canals. From Hayatama, we walked towards Kamikura Shrine on Mount Gongen, passing a Buddhist temple along the way (from which we could hear ceremonial music).

Passing a schoolyard, where children were enjoying a beautiful sunny day outdoors, we arrived at the steep stone path leading up to Kamikura Shrine. We watched an elderly gentleman slowly make his way up the stairs to see the rock which is worshipped as a deity. Alas, we didn’t have time to walk all the way, nearly sprinting to catch our train.

Two more buses took us to Nachi-san, home of the 3rd Grand Shrine and famous Nachi Waterfall. This part of our journey was the only time we struggled with Oku Japan’s itinerary. The directions were clear but they offered several options, which each entailed various bus departures. Once we decided on an option, it was easy.

As suggested in our itinerary, we began our exploration from the last bus stop at Nachi-san, heading first to the grand shrine, which always means climbing stairs. In this case, a LOT of stairs!

More than any other place, the shrines in Nachi felt the most jarringly commercial to my Western sensibilities. Everywhere people were purchasing emas (wishes) to burn or my favorite, to carry as you passed through an 850-yr old sacred camphor tree.

There were many shrines here worth visiting, but our favorite was Nachisan Seiganto-ji. Built in 1590, it is the oldest registered building in the Kumano region. It is also the first stop on the Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage (which consists of 33 Buddhist temples).

Old wooden temples interspersed with vivid orange and gold, surrounded by gardens, ancient trees and mountains — there was so much to love about Nachi! We were entranced even before we spotted the waterfall of in the distance.

Tucked under one of the shrines, we spotted waraji, the traditional rope sandals worn in feudal Japan. These would have been worn by samurai and commoners during a pilgrimage.

The pop of orange we had been glimpsing finally appeared before us, the iconic 3-storied pagoda which is every photographer’s dream.

Followed by a good luck belly rub.

And a beautiful walk through quiet gardens, cobblestone paths and forest.

To reach the Nachi Waterfall.

Nachi sight-seeing complete, we could have taken the bus from the waterfall back to Kii-Katsuura (which most people seemed to be doing). Instead, we chose Oku Japan’s suggestion and retraced our steps back up towards our starting point.

On our way, we passed abandoned buildings with the most elaborate animal carvings on the roof. It was unlike any other architecture we’d seen in Nachi or Kansai.

Finding the box of bamboo hiking sticks, we began our walk along the Daimonzaka.

Daimonzaka is the historical approach to Nachisan and many people still choose to approach from this path. I much preferred walking down it, especially with our handy hiking sticks. The walk is approximately 600m with 267 stairs and it was one of my favorite sections of the Kumano Kodo!

Exiting the forest, we continued on the path, passing through town before reaching the bus stop, where there was a box to return our hiking sticks.

One last bus to arrive at our final destination on the Kumano Kodo, the fishing town of Kii-Katsurra. Our inn for the night was Katsuura Manseiro Onsen, a few blocks from the bus station and directly on the water.

The inn was old but classic and well-maintained. Staff were attentive, the elevators were ancient and the onsen was wonderful. It had an outdoor and indoor onsen (gender-separate) and the water temperature was perfect! Though they offer western-style beds, we had a tatami room, so one last night of traditional bedding.

Once again, dinner was elaborately presented and full of wonderful new dishes to excite our ever-expanding palates. Our waitress was incredibly kind, patiently explaining the dishes and laughing with us when we made faces at some of the stranger items. Such as the abalone, served while still alive and moving. Until we boiled him, at which point he became food instead of entertainment.

And this wraps up our portion of Kumano Kodo. It was a lot to cover, so thank you for sticking around and reading our stories. We have ONE MORE story for Japan, where we explore the Wakayama Coast. I’ll also share a link to our Kumano Kodo Guide once we post that on Trips to Walkabout.

Tomogashima Island: the Day Trip You Haven’t Heard of Yet

Getting to Tomogashima Island

Tomogashima for Anime Fans

Military Ruins on Tomogashima

Making Friends in Kada

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Exploring Japan’s Wakayama Coast & Wakayama City

Exploring Kii-Katsuura

Riding the Train to Wakayama City

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Kumano Kodo, Yunomine Onsen to Kii-Katsuura

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Tomogashima Island: the Day Trip You Haven’t Heard of Yet

Getting to Tomogashima Island

Tomogashima for Anime Fans

Military Ruins on Tomogashima

Making Friends in Kada

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Exploring Japan’s Wakayama Coast & Wakayama City

Exploring Kii-Katsuura

Riding the Train to Wakayama City

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Kumano Kodo, Yunomine Onsen to Kii-Katsuura

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