Travel Diary

British Columbia Bound: Lakes, Mountains & Hidden Gems

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Crossing the Border

Part 2 of our Western Road Trip.

Kettle River near border of Washington and Canada
Crossing Kettle River just before the border into Canada

The journey from Idaho to Canada takes us through Sherman Pass, where endless grasslands meet forest. It’s incredibly dry and the fire alert is high. We cross the border at Midway, where the border agent seems more surprised by our lack of firearms than our lengthy stay in the country.

Lavender lines the lake in Osoyoos

Discovering the Okanagan Valley

We stop for a picnic lunch and walk around the lake in Osoyoos. It’s an interesting town with an eclectic mix of architecture, looks like something you’d see in south Texas or New Mexico. Continuing north, the Okanagan Valley reveals why it’s well known for its lakes, wineries and fresh produce. It’s a wine lovers dream with over 180 licensed wineries in the region. We pass farmstand after farmstand, all selling apples, pears, squash, honey, wine, ciders and other local goods.

Shady trees line the crystal clear waters of Okanagan Lake in Peachland

We fall in love with this region, partly because the lake is so easily accessible and parking is free. Sun-Oka Provincial Park in Summerland offers the perfect beach with shady trees. In Peachland, we walk across the road and follow a walking path along the lake, dipping our feet into the ice-cold water.

Sunset view from our Airbnb in Peachland

Local Tip: In Peachland, find perfect parking near Lakeshore Gardens. You’ll get restrooms, shade and picnic spots away from the busy road.

hiker and cyclist on trestle bridge through Myra Canyon
Sharing the Kettle Valley Rail Trail through Myra Canyon

Walking Myra Canyon

The Kettle Valley Rail Trail, specifically the Myra Canyon section, is what enticed us to Peachland. While others zip through on bikes, we savor Myra Canyon’s railroad trestles and tunnels on foot. The slow pace rewards us with breathtaking gorge views and a deeper appreciation for this engineering marvel.

The tunnels are equally as fascinating as the trestles on Kettle Valley Rail Trail

As we drive through Kelowna (the town closest to Myra Canyon), we congratulate ourselves for choosing to stay in Peachland instead – Kelowna is much too busy and crowded for our tastes.

Fraser River winding through a canyon
Fraser River as it winds through Marble Canyon area

Mining & Rail Towns of BC

Our feet drag as we depart Peachland. Eric and I loved this location and don’t want to leave, but there is more to explore! We stop at the historic mining town of Ashcroft, where we visit a tiny Chinese cemetery that pays homage to the people who labored to build this town. We enjoy a quick coffee and Nanaimo bar at the local bakery as we ponder what it would be like to live your entire life in a town so small and seemingly stuck in time.

Highland Valley Copper Mine and Dam is a highlight of our drive to Pemberton

The drive to Pemberton along Hwy 97C begins barren and boring but quickly gets interesting when we reach the colorful sediment layers at Highland Valley Copper Mine. This is the largest open-pit copper mine in Canada and it’s truly a sight to behold. It’s the first time Eric and I have seen a tailings pond, which looks like a milky turquoise lake but is actually a containment area to store the waste leftover from the mining process. A good reminder that beautiful things can be deadly.

Lookout point for Seton Lake rivals views we've seen in Banff

Just past the mine and the town of Ashcroft, we reach Marble Canyon, with its beautiful lakes surrounded by a kaleidoscope of colorful rocks jutting up from the water. The Seton Lake Lookout in Lillooet is absolutely gorgeous, despite water levels being low. Our last few miles on Duffey Road into Pemberton are even more stunning. This is one scenic drive not to be missed!

British Columbia lakes are all beautiful and Duffey Lake is no exception

Pemberton: Where Cowboys Meet Adventure

Pemberton is like visiting a set from an old Western movie. There are of course modern buildings and new homes being built, but the overall impression is a mountain cowboy town, where people still ride up on horses to visit the local bar. We’re staying with a young couple who embody this place — people seeking active adventures away from the crowds. I just wonder how much longer they’ll have to enjoy this “escape” because it looks like new homes are popping up all over town.

reflection of snow peaked mountains in semaphore lake
Can't get enough of these views on Semaphore Lakes Trail

While we had hoped to hike in Joffre Lakes Park, we have the unfortunate luck of being here during 1 of 3 annual closures. The First Nations who manage the park close it throughout the year to allow for cultural and ecological preservation. I love that they do this, just wish we had timed our visit better.

rocks, mountains and blue skies on Semaphore Lakes Trail
Can you spot Eric in this photo?

Our Airbnb host suggests an alternative which turns out to be one of the best trails we’ve hiked in BC – the stunning Semaphore Lakes. At just about 4 miles roundtrip, it’s a relatively short (but steep) hike to reach 3 glacial lakes. The lumber road to reach it is infamous for questionable conditions but patience and good tires is all that’s required to reach the trailhead.

Drive to Semaphore is full of farm stands with fresh produce and flowers

We spend an afternoon at the Pemberton Library, which has the best travel and hiking section I’ve ever seen and it has a coffee kiosk. You can also rent Instapots, borrow from their seed library, and purchase art from local artists. Eric peruses (you guessed it), cookbooks! By the time we leave that library, our phones’ photo storage is maxed out with recipes and travel research.

man walking boardwalk around One Mile Lake
Pembertononians are so lucky to have One Mile Lake for their daily walk

Another hike we enjoy in Pemberton is One Mile Lake Loop combined with Nairn Falls Provincial Park. We walk a total of 7 miles to the falls and back. It’s not a difficult trail but it does have some ups and downs so it’s a great workout. Most of it is in shaded forest and there’s a nice spot to walk down to the river on the way to the falls where we eat lunch and cool our feet in the river.

Bliss on the Soo River while hiking back from Nairn Falls

Whistler: A Lesson in Research

After the authentic charm of Pemberton, Whistler hits like a cold shower. Expensive, crowded, and requiring gondola tickets for many trails — it’s not our scene. So we spend our time in Whistler working, reading and enjoying the cool weather on our balcony. Whistler may be too crowded for our tastes, but it is surrounded by beautiful mountains and lush forests. There’s a reason so many people are here.

Always seeking my quiet spots

Lesson Learned: Always do your research. This is the first time I didn’t research for a trip, because it was a well-known hiking destination. Had I spent time learning about Whistler, I would have known it wasn’t a good fit for Eric and I. I’m always so thorough when planning trips for clients, guess I need to do the same for myself.

trees, mountains and water on Sea to Sky Hwy in BC Canada
The views along Sea to Sky Hwy

Journey's End: Vancouver Island Beckons

The Sea to Sky Highway lives up to its reputation as one of North America’s most spectacular drives. Eric and I have driven some truly spectacular routes (Snowdonia in Wales, Durmitor in Montenegro, all of Faroe Islands) but even I can admit this road that connects Vancouver to Whistler is stunning! I especially love the section between Squamish and Vancouver, where tree-covered mountains open up to views of the islands.

If you visit Vancouver, make time to hike Murrin Park

On route to the ferry that will take us to Vancouver Island, we stop to hike in Murrin Provincial Park, which treats us to towering trees interspersed with massive rock walls and boulders. It’s popular with climbers and we stop several times to marvel at the patience and strength this activity requires.

people climbing rock wall in Murrin Park
Can you spot the climbers?

My excitement builds as we line up for the ferry. We are about to reach our final destination, the island I have wanted to visit ever since I glimpsed it years ago when we visited the San Juan Islands. We spend most of our ride on the outside deck, noting each island as the wind howls around us and the sun begins to set. Someone across the ship says they see a whale and a scurry of people rush over, but Eric and I are content where we are. This quiet observation of wild Pacific beauty is all we seek.

views of Horseshoe Bay from ferry terminal
Nice view while waiting for the ferry at Horseshoe Bay

Stick around for the next part of our journey as we explore Vancouver Island. Find out why we’re tempted to move here.

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Slow travel, Travel Diary, United States

Road Trip West: Louisiana to Idaho

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woman looking down at mountain lake in Colorado

A 45-day journey Begins

After last year’s adventure in Newfoundland, Eric and I are back on the road – this time heading west to explore Vancouver Island and British Columbia’s southwest. Our route takes us through unexplored territory: Idaho, Wyoming and South Dakota. But as with any epic journey, plans have a way of changing.

woman standing by mural in Coleman Texas
Fun stop in Coleman, TX, for murals and milkshakes at Owl Drug Store

Austin: A Bittersweet Reunion

Our first stop brings us to Eric’s aunt and uncle in Austin. Jon and Trudy are those rare souls who make everyone feel at home. We haven’t seen them since Eric’s mom passed in December, and it feels healing to reconnect and laugh again. The evening brings Harry Potter at the Alamo Drafthouse (complete with toy rats and tattoos), followed by a comical run-in with local law enforcement reminding Trudy to turn on her headlights when driving at night. The Austin clan joins us for our final night of wine, stories and laughter.

desert with mountains in background
Miles and miles of this through North Texas and New Mexico

Through the Desert to Santa Fe

The dusty expanse of northwest Texas and New Mexico stretches before us. While some find beauty in deserts, I’m counting the miles to our oasis: Santa Fe. Eric discovers cookbook heaven at Kitchenality, a used kitchen shop supporting meals for the homebound, and we enjoy a fabulous lunch at Clafoutis before heading to my aunt and uncle’s for the night.

Enjoying food and atmosphere at Clafoutis

A visit with my aunt reveals unexpected parallels between her and Mom. From the outside view, they seem to have nothing in common and have certainly led very different lives. But they are both fiercely independent, love music and history, have a rebellious streak lurking behind their southern charm, and have always had a global perspective. All traits they share with their mother. After an afternoon of aperitifs in the courtyard and an excellent dinner at Arroyo Vino, we talk politics until the men retreat to bed. My aunt is as sharp-witted and classy as ever, she would have made an excellent politician.

Beautiful rock formations on Hwy 84 between Santa Fe and Colorado

Colorado's Mountain Magic

The drive to Colorado brings wildlife encounters – a near-miss with a prairie dog and a brown bear sighting near Pagosa Springs. This spa town, with its riverside trails and hot springs, deserves a return visit in the quiet pre-ski season.

woman dipping hand in hot springs
Love Pagosa Springs, it's a fun family getaway

Trip Inspo: The San Juan Skyway loop through southern Colorado connects Durango, Silverton, Ouray, Ridgway, Telluride, Dolores and Cortez. While doable in 7 hours, these towns deserve deeper exploration.

conveyor bridge and mountains at Idarado Mine in Colorado
Eric's favorite section of San Juan Skyway, near Idarado Mine

The San Juan Mountains take our breath away – literally. At 11,000 feet, Red Mountain Pass tests our altitude tolerance, but the spectacular views at Idarado Mine and Molas Pass make the headache worthwhile. Forests of aspen give way to rainbow-colored mountainsides, culminating in the stunning valley town of Ouray. Despite the crowds, it’s earned a spot on our “must return” list.

Will return to hike the trails here at Molas Pass!

Walking the dusty roads of historic Silverton reminds us that much of America is still very much the Wild West. Silverton hosts the annual skijoring event, when horses pull skiers through the streets and insanity ensues.

Stepping back in time in Silverton

We spend a night at an Airbnb room in Montrose and enjoy a wonderful visit with our host, Joey. Eric warms our dinner in her kitchen as we swap stories. Her husband is a talented landscape photographer, specializing in dark sky photography, and his artwork decorates the walls of their home. She and I are the same age and she wants to know how we’re able to travel for such a long time. So we tell her, and thus ensues a lengthy conversation about turning dreams into a reality.

Staying at an Airbnb hosted by avid hikers is always fun, especially when they provide a wall of maps and hiking guides!

Will return to hike Monument Canyon in Redlands, Colorado

Idaho Bound

Smoke from Idaho forest fires forces us to abandon our plans to hike in the Sawtooth Mountains, redirecting us through Utah, southeastern Idaho and Montana. Anticipating a long, dry, boring driving through Utah, Eric finds an oasis in the desert. We try dried watermelon and canary melons for the first time at Dunham Melons, a roadside stand in Green River.

Not a fan of the drive between Moab and Provo, Utah

We spend a night in the tiny town of Malad City, Idaho (excellent pizza and ice cream to be had there!).

sunrise north of Malad City Idaho
Beautiful sunrise leaving Malad City, heading north into Idaho and Montana

It’s a long day of driving through smoke-filled skies, but we get glimpses of beautiful landscapes as we pass Montana’s Beaverhead-Deerlodge National Forest and the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness. Skies clear just as we arrive into Coeur d’Alene.

smoke filled sky driving through Montana
Smoke from Idaho's Wapiti wildfire cloaks eastern Idaho and Montana

Rain accompanies our entire stay in Coeur d’Alene, but we make the most of it with walks through historic neighborhoods along the lake and thrift store shopping. Eric’s cookbook collection grows suspiciously larger – perhaps it’s time to open a culinary lending library.

shopping purchases including cookbooks, pie and clothes
A day of shopping in Coeur d'Alene ends with pie and coffee

We like the vibe here, unpretentious and youthful. It feels like a small town but it boasts good restaurants, health food markets and plenty of outdoor activities. I’d move here just for the hand pies at Bean & Pie!

trees and beach at Coeur d'Alene City Park
Love our walks in Coeur d'Alene's City Park and along the lake

Next up: Our journey continues through British Columbia, where lakes, mountains and unexpected discoveries await.

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Europe, Hiking, Slow travel, Travel Diary, Walking Holidays

Walking to Carrick & the Slieve League Cliffs

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man walking Sli Cholmcille to Carrick

Our 20 days in Ireland, walking the Bluestack Way and Slí Cholmcille and volunteering for a HelpX on Clare Island, is coming to an end. And while our second day on the Slí Cholmcille might be my least favorite of the entire trip, our last 2 days in Ireland make up for it with a beautiful hike to the Slieve League Cliffs and an evening with friends in Dublin.

couple in front of Millstone B&B in Cashel
Leaving our comfy B&B in Cashel on a sunny day

Day 2 Walking the Slí Cholmcille

Looks like another day of full sun as we head uphill out of town, offering us expansive views of the village from a different viewpoint. We stop at Byrne’s, the only food store within walking distance of our B&B. In the summer they offer pre-packaged sandwiches but we’re here in off-season so options are limited to mostly snack foods. Thankfully we’ve packed emergency beef jerky and protein bars, so we won’t starve.

View of Cashel from Sli Cholmcille path

We quickly see signs of active peat harvesting. We’ve been smelling the peat fires throughout town as many locals prefer to use it for heat and sentimental reasons, but now we get to see how they harvest and dry it. People have different methods, but here they are stacking it in little teepee shaped piles. Once dried, these hardened peat bricks are thrown into bags and collected as needed.

piles of peat drying in a field

We enjoy the soft crunch of gravel and the pillowy softness of dried bog grass beneath our feet while we sweat off our breakfast. Not liking this hot sun, but grateful for an easier walk today (or so I think).

man hiking Sli Cholmcille to Carrick

After some road walking, we leave the pavement to follow a forest through a short stretch of boggy terrain. The landscape is so barren here and it’s blazing hot with no relief from the sun. I’m not loving this route today.

But really, I shouldn’t complain, because the blue sky is gorgeous and we’re approaching a lake with mountains all around us.

man walking Sli Cholmcille towards a lake and mountains

A bit of open hillwalking through boggy fields that are relatively dry (thanks to the sun I keep complaining about).

But then we begin our climb up Crockunna, one of those Irish hills that feels like a mountain. There’s no clear path and it’s quite boggy, but there are waymarking posts offering a general direction up. We find a wall of raised earth and boulders, following it up as far as we can. I am sooooooo happy to reach the summit!

woman standing atop Crockunna looking out on Sli Cholmcille and lake
Looking down at Carrick from Crockunna

More open hillwalking but the descent is much easier as we walk towards Carrick. We have lovely views of the River Glen which spills out into the Atlantic Ocean and the barren terrain opens up into bright green pathways lined with yellow gorse.

Arriving into town, we stop at a small market to purchase snacks. We’re too tired and grubby to eat at the Slieve League Lodge, which boasts the only restaurant in town that’s open at the moment. We’ll come back for dinner later.

man walking into Carrick
Walking into Carrick, population 265

We’re staying about 1 mile south of Carrick, closer to Teelin and the Slieve League Cliffs. There’s a pretty river walk that takes us directly from town to O’Neill’s B&B, where once again we are greeted by a friendly face and a comfortable room to rest. Our room is spacious with skylights and windows facing the river.

It rains the next day, so we spend it relaxing in our room and walking more along the river walk. On the road to Teelin, just a few feet from our B&B, there’s a coffee truck called Brew In Thru where we get sandwiches and coffee.

Brew In Thru coffee truck in Teelin

Visiting Slieve League Cliffs

At breakfast we chat with Germaine and Mark from Wisconsin and I feel like we’re long-lost friends. We’ll see them again later today, as the skies have cleared and we’re all heading to the Slieve League Cliffs.

woman standing at Slieve League Cliffs Ireland

Besides being famous for their natural splendor, the Cliffs serve as the start of the International Appalachian Trail (IAT) in Ireland. They are more than 2x higher than the Cliffs of Moher and just shy of being the highest sea cliffs in Ireland — that honor goes to the Croaghaun Cliffs on Achill Island. Our host drops us off at the official Sliabh Liag Visitor’s Centre, where we meet up again with our new friends from Wisconsin. We say a quick hello to Roisin, who works at the center, and hop on a quick shuttle up to the Bunglas Viewpoint.

Bunglas Viewpoint, what everyone's here to see

As expected, there are a lot of people here, but once we hike up towards the top we lose most of them. Only daredevils attempt to walk One Man’s Pass, which traverses the tip of the cliffs and connects with the Pilgrim’s Path to return to the village of Teelin. We walk as far as we can until losing visibility in the fog.

Instead of taking the return shuttle, we walk back down to Teelin. The Wisconsin couple joins us and we swap travel stories all the way down. It’s a clear day so we have gorgeous views of Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Coast looking south. We can also see Carrigan Head and the old signal tower, built by the British in the early 1800s to warn of French invasions.

Back in the village, we part ways with the Wisconsins who are stopping at a cafe. We’re determined to eat at The Rusty Mackerel, even though we don’t have reservations. Our hosts and our notes from Tailor-Made Tours warned us about this, but in our excitement to reach the cliffs we simply forgot. After a long wait and drinks in the pub, we eventually get a table. The atmosphere is worth the wait and the cuisine is good solid Irish comfort food.

We finish our day by walking back to our B&B on Teelin Road. It’s a busy road and there’s little room on the sides to step away from traffic, but the views are lovely and we stop again at the coffee truck.

Glen River on Teelin Road
Walk back to O'Neill's B&B from Teelin

Return to Dublin

It’s the end of our walking holiday in Donegal so we say goodbye to the O’Neills who have been excellent hosts. They’ve scheduled a taxi for our return to Donegal Town, a splurge since we could have taken the local bus. Our taxi driver is the youngest of 7 children. He lives in Kilcar where his 83yr old dad still runs the family pub (John Joe’s Pub) that he took over from his father. The drive along this coastline is stunning and Eric and I make a mental promise to return with a car someday to drive the entire Donegal and Northern Ireland coast.

old worn out hiking boots

Our packs are lighter as we arrive in Donegal Town, and that’s because Eric and I both have left our hiking boots behind. It’s fitting that we purchased our boots for our first hiking trip to Ireland in 2016. After treading paths all over the world, they finally meet their end back in Ireland.

We enjoy a luxurious brunch at the Abbey Hotel while waiting for our bus which will take us to Dublin. Sean and Michelle have graciously offered to share their home with us tonight and their daughter even gives up her bedroom. Yes, we could have stayed in a hotel near the airport, but we have WAY more fun this way!

two couples sharing drinks around a firepit
Sean & Michelle warm us up with good liquor, conversation & a fire

I’ve worked with Sean for the past year but we’ve never met in person. Can’t think of a better way to end our time in Ireland than with this fun-loving family! Michelle cooks stone oven pizzas and salad while their young son Thomas roasts  marshmallows to perfection and quizzes us on Irish words. We stuff our faces with homemade sticky pudding and daughter Ella shares her story of childhood trauma at airport customs when she snuck giant scissors into her luggage.

boy roasting marshmallows

A friend pops in to drop off duck eggs and wish Michelle a happy 50th birthday. While sitting around the fire, which Thomas is gleefully building, the friend’s pup Luna entertains us with a poop fiasco all over the yard which culminates in a grand finale of a butt scoot all the way down the pavement. I laugh so hard that night that I go to bed with sore cheeks.

The morning before our flight, Sean takes us on a walk through Glasnevin Cemetery and the National Botanic Gardens. Sean and I discuss tourism and brainstorm ideas for enticing Americans to Ireland. It’s the perfect ending to a perfect trip, and it’s certainly not the last time we’ll visit Ireland. We loved our first trip to Dingle, but this time our experiences were so much richer. We spent more time connecting with people and all of our accommodations were owned by friendly innkeepers who welcomed us with open arms — that hospitality is the true beauty of Ireland.

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