I love walking holidays that offer flexible options and our 4th day on the Kumano Kodo with Oku Japan did just that. We could walk the entire route from Chikatsuyu to Hongu (9hr walk), a modified version from Doyugawabashi (7hr walk), or the shortest option from Hosshinmon-oji (2hr walk). Which one do you think we chose?
If you missed the posts prior to this, please read Beyond the Trail: Food and Friendship on the Kumano Kodo first.
To our credit, we planned to walk the 7hr option but slept too late and missed the bus for that. I’m glad we did, because it gave us more time to enjoy our first grand shrine along the Kumano Kodo. But it also meant we took a lot of buses that day, so I would definitely recommend walking as much as you can.
It took 2 buses to arrive at Hosshinmon-oji, where our walk began with a lovely ramble in the forest to visit the shrine. Though small, it’s important because it serves as the entrance to Nachi Hongu Taisha.
Leaving Hosshinmon-oji, our walk on the Kumano Kodo consisted of paved pathways through thickly wooded forest.
Interspersed with small villages.
And boggy fields.
Past wood carvings for sale.
And a glimpse of rural Japan in the mountains along Kumano Kodo.
Once again entering forest, full of cedar trees and mystery.
Passing an old school and then monument.
Where I happily frolicked over ancient stones and listened to the trees whispering to me.
Arriving at another village, we saw more wood carvings for sale, mikan orange trees and rows and rows of tea bushes.
Finding a good resting place, we stopped for lunch to enjoy our fried cutlet and egg sandwiches. This is a common packed lunch along the Kumano Kodo.
Needing something sweet, we stopped at a roadside produce stand to buy mikan oranges. No one told us early season mikans are super tart, a lesson we learned the hard way. Should have bought the candy they were selling!
After more walking along forest and cobblestone paths, we crossed a bridge. There was a sign nearby depicting the story of poet Izumi Shikibu, who penned a poem about her experience while walking the Kumano Kodo. It is said that here is where she began her menstrual cycle and despairing that she would not be able to visit the temple, a deity appeared to her saying “How could the god who mingles with the dust suffer because of your monthly obstruction?” This story is told so that pilgrims understand that the Kumano Kodo has historically been open to all genders, class and sect. This has not always been the case at sacred sites elsewhere in Japan.
Our walk along this section of Kumano Kodo may have been shorter than planned, but it was stunning the entire way to Hongu.
Just before we reached the entrance to the grand shrine, I spotted something that made me fall in love with this route even more. A used book store, with some English titles, a cafe and pottery shop.
Now we had arrived to one of the three grand shrines which all Kumano Kodo pilgrims seek — the Kumano Hongu Taisha.
Before entering the shrines, we purified our hands. I loved these dragon water spouts, which you see throughout Japan.
The shrine itself was nice, as were the smaller shrines in the area, but what Eric and I loved most was the grand entrance into the shrine. Walking 158 steps, surrounded by blazing banners and trees, made quite the impression. And since we entered through the back, we walked DOWN these steps instead of up. Much easier!
Having taken the short walk, we had plenty of time to wander around Hongu. The visitor center had excellent exhibits, which is where we learned about the Kumano Nuns and the extraordinary efforts it takes by volunteers to maintain the Kumano Kodo. My favorite exhibit was this display showing the many monsters and folklore characters that are found in the Kumano Kodo region. Now I have a whole new arsenal of fascinating and frightening tales to share before bedtime!
We stopped at the memorial commemorating Spain’s agreement in 1998 to formalize a “sister road” to the Camino de Santiago, creating the Dual Pilgrim option.
Near the visitor center and shrine there were plenty of options for food. We started with pastries from a local confectionary, followed by pizza and cappuccinos at B&B Cafe Hongu. After that, one more bus to reach our inn for the night.
The bus dropped us off at Yunomineso, a large ryokan situated at the top of a hill overlooking Yunomine Onsen (a hot springs village).
Our room at Yunominesu was large, with a private shower/toilet room, mini fridge and a relaxing verandah. The futons and pillows were a little too flat for our comfort, but the amenities more than made up for that.
Amenities included ping-pong tables, massage chairs and 2 private onsens which didn’t require reservations. Turns out, Eric DOES enjoy an onsen when he only has to share it with me. 🙂
Besides the luxury of a private onsen, Yunominesu also offered a fun dining experience. Served to us in our room and with cards showing everything we were eating, this was one of our favorite dinners on the Kumano Kodo. Although I do have to say, Yoshinori’s dinner and breakfast in Yuasa was far superior!
We’re not quite finished, we have one more day on Kumano Kodo to finish up with grand shrines and a night by the sea.
