While bittersweet goodbyes are never easy, Eric and I reluctantly bid farewell to Vancouver Island. Our journey home begins with a late afternoon ferry ride, watching Vancouver’s skyline fade into a curtain of rain as we make our way to our first stop in Abbotsford.
This is part 4 of our Road Trip West.
Through British Columbia's Heart
The drive from Abbotsford to Nelson unfolds like a painting, even through the misty rain. In Chilliwack, famous for its vibrant tulip fields, we’re treated to glimpses of the magnificent Flood Falls—a trio of cascading waterfalls tumbling down sheer cliffs. I make a mental note to return someday and properly explore the hiking trails.
The route through Keremeos and Cawston teases us with roadside food stands, cider distilleries, and wineries. Eric is wishing we had more time to stop here, this is definitely his food scene.
In Osoyoos, we discover a gem called Queen of the South. The restaurant’s walls are adorned with memes and signs featuring cleverly risqué feminine humor, creating an atmosphere that’s both glamorous and irreverent. The service sparkles as bright as the decor, and the food—well, it even surpasses Eric’s exacting standards.
Nelson: a Crunchy Paradise
A friend’s description of Nelson as “crunchy” proves spot-on. The Farmer’s Market here is nothing short of extraordinary, especially for vegetable enthusiasts. Eric transforms into a culinary genius, discovering produce we’ve never heard of. Our wallet takes a hit as we load up on fresh vegetables, LaRue bakery treats, mysterious Korean fruit toppings, and a promising “miracle” lotion that claims to banish all pain.
So Many Different Mountains
One of the trip’s most striking revelations is the incredible diversity of the mountains we pass. Each peak tells its own story—some stand proud and bare, while others pierce the sky with snow-capped summits. Through Fernie and Crowsnest Pass, the scenery becomes so captivating that I frantically jot down notes for future visits. The winding river through town promises adventures in hiking and snowshoeing that we’ll have to return to explore.
British Columbia is blessed with some of the most beautiful mountains in the world. I still drool over the photos from our trip to Golden and Banff a few years ago.
Mountain View Sunsets
Our arrival in the tiny hamlet of Mountain View, Alberta, brings unexpected wonders. Here, we witness sunsets that defy description and experience our first glimpse of the Aurora Borealis—a sight so mesmerizing that I forget to even reach for my camera. While this hamlet might boast the most ancient gas pump I’ve ever encountered, its sweeping views of prairie meeting the mountains surrounding Waterton Lakes more than make up for its modest size.
Waterton Lakes: Beauty in Renewal
Waterton Lakes National Park offers a striking contrast to its American cousin, Glacier National Park. We arrive during peak autumn, when western larch and aspen trees paint the landscape in brilliant yellow. However, the park bears visible scars from the 2017 Kenow Wildfire, which devastated 19,303 hectares and damaged over 80% of the hiking trails. Yet even here, nature demonstrates its resilience—wildlife and vegetation are steadily reclaiming their territory.
Before entering the park, we pause to observe a resident bison herd from a viewpoint along Alberta Highway 6.
The day unfolds with peaceful walks around Cameron Lake and the main Waterton Lakes, where crystal-clear waters mirror the fall foliage and mountain peaks in perfect symmetry.
Glacier National Park in October
A wildfire in Bighorn National Forest forces us to modify our plans, but Glacier National Park proves to be a serendipitous replacement. We arrive during that magical first week of October—a sweet spot when crowds thin but Going-to-the-Sun Road remains accessible. Though visitor centers and lodges have closed for the season, the park’s dramatic scenery is enhanced by autumn’s golden touch.
The Grinnell Glacier trail quickly reveals why it’s considered the crown jewel of day hikes in Glacier. Each section unfolds like chapters in a visual story, beginning with the serene path around Swiftcurrent Lake and the historic Many Glacier Hotel.
Past Lake Josephine, the trail climbs steadily upward, each viewpoint more spectacular than the last. The final push to the glacier tests our endurance, but the reward is beyond worth it—Upper Grinnell Lake’s surreal colors leave us, and everyone around us, in speechless awe.
Our extended lunch break atop the glacier comes at a cost. Racing down the mountain to catch Going-to-the-Sun Road before dark, we push too hard. My body protests the next day, and I’m confined to a heating pad with a steady regimen of Tylenol and Ibuprofen. Rheumatoid Arthritis has its own agenda, and today it’s demanding rest.
Food & Love in Montana
Eric charts our course through Montana based on culinary possibilities. The Big Sky Grocery proves to be a win — packed with whoopie pies, pudding mixes, pie fillings, jerky, cheese curds, and every imaginable candy.
In Billings, we reunite with Cornell, a former colleague from my Calcasieu Library days. Over homemade gumbo and pecan pie, Cornell and Walt entertain us with stories, photos and excellent conversation. Walt takes us for a night walk atop the Rimrocks so we can fully appreciate his hometown. Their genuine devotion to each other reminds me that love still triumphs in these challenging times.
Our Montana food tour continues at the Trading Post Cafe in Crow Agency, where I discover fry bread with honey—a revelation that (forgive me, Louisiana) surpasses even beignets. The cafe’s warm atmosphere and excellent gift shop, complete with gossiping locals and an impressive book selection, make it a memorable stop.
A Friend in South Dakota
Spearfish catches us off guard with its charming downtown and authentic atmosphere—a stark contrast to the more tourist-oriented Custer where we are staying tonight. Though our chosen base proves less than ideal, our Airbnb host Verona brightens our stay. This Minnesota transplant with her sun-kissed face and golden hair shares her passion for horses, revealing only at the end of our conversation the recent heartbreak of losing her beloved horse to a broken leg.
The drive through South Dakota offers its own adventures. After successfully avoiding wildlife collisions throughout our journey, Katniss Evergreen (my Subaru) finally meets her match with a determined crow. The landscape compensates for this mishap with stunning buttes and river valleys lined with brilliant yellow trees.
American Monuments & Alien Landscapes
Mount Rushmore greets us in the crisp early morning air, before the official opening time. Sharing the space with only chipmunks and a handful of early risers, we explore the trails in peaceful solitude—a photographer’s dream.
Our route between Keystone and the Badlands reveals South Dakota’s autumn beauty, far from the tourist hubs of Deadwood and Custer. Though desert landscapes usually leave us cold, the Badlands transfix us with their alien terrain—a harsh yet captivating testament to nature’s sculptural powers.
In Ocalala, the Dignity statue stands as a powerful tribute to indigenous women, specifically the Lakota, Nakota and Dakota women. This is a beautiful work of art, best appreciated in person. It’s a highlight in a stretch of South Dakota that even the local cattle seem to find monotonous.
A Final Cultural Crown
We conclude our journey in Rogers, Arkansas, at the Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art. Though storm damage has closed many of the trails we hoped to explore, the museum’s architecture and collection exceed expectations. I get excited when I see Norman Rockwell’s Rosie the Riveter! For anyone seeking to understand American art’s evolution, Crystal Bridges offers an unparalleled education.
Homeward Bound
As we finally turn toward home, our thoughts already drift to our next adventure—one that promises French châteaux and fantastique cuisine. But for now, we’ll spend a few months processing the incredible landscapes, flavors, and stories we’ve collected across Western Canada and the American Northwest.
