It has been 2 months since Eric and I returned from France and I still haven’t written about it! Yeah yeah, I wrote about our Chateau Life in Normandy, but I have yet to share stories about the rest of our trip. So here you go, our journey told through photos of the rural villages and coastal towns in Normandy. I’ll follow up with Brittany, Loire and Paris in later posts.
Le Bec-Hellouin
Le Bec-Hellouin is truly as lovely as I anticipated it would be. Voted one of the “most beautiful villages in France,” it’s surrounded by woods and pristine farmland. We’re too early in the day to visit the Abbey, but just viewing the Abbey’s exterior is impressive. We see a large hiking group of older adults, all speaking French, beginning what I assume to be a walk along the Bec Circuit.
Lisieux
While Eric and I are no longer practicing Catholics, we do enjoy seeing beautiful churches, and I’ve always admired Saint Thérèse of Lisieux, so of course we visit the Basilica. Whether you’re deeply spiritual or just appreciate beautiful architecture, this place leaves an impression. As you approach the basilica, it rises like a crown over the town of Lisieux—a massive white stone structure set against the greenery of Normandy. It was built in the 20th century but feels timeless, dedicated to one of the most beloved modern saints in the Catholic faith.
Inside, the atmosphere is reverent, flooded with natural light and covered in vibrant mosaics and life-size photos of Thérèse, from birth to death.
Honfleur
Eric and I LOVE Honfleur, which comes as a surprise to me because I expected it to be crowded—it’s a popular stop for river cruises. There are certainly plenty of tourists meandering around, taking photos of all the beautiful old buildings and narrow cobblestone paths just like me, but they’re moving at a nice leisurely pace, and only a few are wandering away from the port.
We walk around for hours; every street has something special. A beautiful window display. An impeccably dressed French man covered head to toe in winter clothing, quickly followed by tourists in t-shirts and sandals. We devour kouignettes from Maison Georges Larnicol and tuck some macarons in my bag for afternoon coffee.
Etretat
Etretat is every bit of amazing that I dreamed it would be. This seaside town is famous for its massive white cliffs, and they are truly wondrous, but honestly our favorite part of this getaway is our B&B host.
We’re staying at Les Hauts d’Étretat. At breakfast I make a comment about the impressive art collection and our host invites us into his private space where he shows us even more art, some of which was painted by his father. It’s an eclectic collection with lots of different styles and mediums—this man is truly a lover of art. The only piece I can’t appreciate is a strange sculpture depicting milk poured over an upside-down race car seat. One of those contemporary pieces that’s weird in an awkward way. Our host married a woman from the states and lived in California for a while; he’s an avid world traveler and great conversationalist.
We hike above the cliffs of Étretat, walking a few hours along the GR 21 towards Fécamp. It’s glorious weather, sunny, cool and not too windy.
On the way back to our car, we stop for a quick walk through Les Jardins d’Étretat and enjoy the whimsical artwork and impressive views from the clifftop garden.
La Bouille
Just a short drive from the château is La Bouille, a classic Norman village on the Seine which was once a resort town for Parisians and Rouen residents. Now it’s just a lovely little river town exploding with vibrant spring flowers landscaped beautifully around historic villas and half-timbered medieval buildings.
Once a popular painting location for students from the Rouen art school, La Bouille remains an artistic haven, and we see evidence of this everywhere.
Veules-les-Roses
On a day trip to Dieppe, we stop to hike along the coast, beginning at a memorial on the cliffs above Veules-les-Roses. We follow the steps down into town, wandering along the promenade and commenting on the old bathhouses and what it must have been like for women “back in the day” when they had separate swimming hours from the men.
As we’ve already witnessed, the water along France’s Normandy coast is stunning. When paired with a perfectly preserved town such as Veules-les-Roses, it’s picture-perfect!
Dieppe
We arrive in Dieppe mid-morning on a sunny day, and the parking lots are already full. Temps are still cool and there’s a brisk wind, but that doesn’t keep the French away from the beaches. Everyone is out—walking hand in hand or walking their dogs, eating ice cream, chasing runaway children, sunbathing or riding bikes.
We visit the castle in Dieppe, enjoying the exterior views and monuments. We see the church and walk the quay, observing the different techniques of the fishermen.
I buy a sweater and bag from a pop-up vide-grenier, which is basically a “clear the attic” garage sale. This particular one is raising money for a non-profit. The French in general don’t like to waste, and you’ll find many markets throughout the country selling used goods. In fact, it’s illegal to throw away food in France—one of many things I love most about the French lifestyle.
To learn more about flea market shopping, read David Lebovitz’s article on How to Find Flea Markets in France.
Jumieges Abbey
One of the “must visit” sites for me on this trip is Jumièges Abbey, founded in 654 and one of Normandy’s most famous Benedictine abbeys. Words don’t adequately capture this place, but you can feel how special it is while walking the grounds.
It’s a dream location for photographers and artists as the light filtering through the open walls creates dramatic shadows and ever-changing colors. Mother Nature is slowly reclaiming the crumbling walls, which adds to the beauty.
Saint Wandrille Abbey
Further up the River Seine we find Saint Wandrille Abbey, another Benedictine monastery, but this one is still fully preserved and an active community. It’s Easter weekend so we can’t visit the interior, but walking the grounds and lovely town is enough to satisfy my curiosity and take some nice photos.
I regret not having a chance to visit Wandrille Abbey during one of their services, as this abbey is known for its beautiful Gregorian chants. C’est la vie. This wraps up our slow travel adventures while staying at the Chateau Bosgouet. Stick around for our Roadtrip from Normandy to Brittany, exploring D-Day Beaches and the Cotentin Peninsula.
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