When you only have one day to see a city as large & ancient as Athens, it can feel quite overwhelming. Add to this fact that you’ve just spent a week on a tiny Greek island, isolated from the rest of the world & you can understand how we probably felt arriving in this sprawling mecca. I felt like a mole coming up to ground for the first time, squinting my eyes at the bright light & thinking “can’t I just go back & hide?” 
My first impression of Athens was “cramped & crumbling,” similar to the New Orleans French Quarter but MUCH older & larger. Instead of taking the generic tourist route & staying in a hotel, we rented a flat near Syntagma Square. I wanted to experience modern-day Athens & this seemed the most expedient way to do it with such a short visit. Boy was I right about that! This is the area of Athens most often in the news, where protests & demonstrations occur. When our taxi driver picked us up from the ferry, I asked him “what did we miss in the world this week?” He looked right at me with a twinkle in his eye & then proceeded to tell us all about the demonstrations going on that day just a block away from our lodging. In his words “you are going right to the heart of things.” I’m sure Eric was silently cursing me at this point, but I wasn’t nervous. That is, I wasn’t nervous until we arrived at the flat.
The street was narrow, the buildings looked like they were about to crumble to the ground, and the millenial heavily smoking outside the entrance looked us up & down like some strange species. Old city, lots of smokers, college students…I was prepared for all that. However, no lights in the stairwell, holes in the wall of the entrance, a creepy mafia looking dude counting money with his door wide open on the first floor…NOT prepared for that. While we walked up those steps, I imagine the thoughts went something like this:
Aimee: I can’t tell Chip about this place, he’ll never allow me to travel with Clare & Eric again!
Eric: Where the hell are we, Sirius Black’s house? Is this about to be a scene from “Taken?!”
Clare: Show no fear, they can’t know you have doubts. It had a 9.4 rating on Booking, it can’t be that bad.
Much to our relief, a very nice woman was waiting for us at the door to our flat & the interior looked NOTHING like the rest of the building. The decor was quirky & cozy & the rooms were spacious. Our hostess spent time welcoming us, explaining the apartment, giving us directions & helpful tips. She left us with maps & an extensive list of restaurant suggestions, which included owner/chef names & suggested dishes.
We arrived late on our first night in Athens, so we opted for one of the suggested restaurants just a block away. The food wasn’t great (maybe because we’d been spoiled by the wonderful food of Sifnos), but our waiter was fabulous! We shared common interests in TV shows & he demonstrated his passion for medieval sword fighting. He talked about how he had to stop taking sword fighting classes once his young son began school but that someday he’d go back to it.
1 DAY IN ATHENS
Starting from Syntagma, we walked down Nikis & meandered through the Plaka area towards Anofiotika, an old neighborhood at the base of the Acropolis. Though just a tiny spec in this large city, Anofiotika was my favorite place that we visited that day. It was founded by construction workers from the Cycladic islands, so it was the perfect way to transition from a week in Sifnos to the city. The homes were small, simple, beautifully decorated, & connected by narrow pathways full of lush plants.
Anofiotika is truly a hidden gem in the heart of Athens. For a virtual tour, watch THIS VIDEO.
One of many cafes in Plaka
Anofiotika mural
Anofiotika looking up at Acropolis
From the quiet oasis of Anofiotika, we headed into Acropolis hell. That’s right, I said it. A history major who hated one of the most historic sites in the world. Sacrilege! I realize it is unrealistic of me to think that I could visit such a site without having to share it with hordes of tourists, but honestly — having to maneuver through tightly packed spaces whilst dodging selfie sticks & burning alive is NOT conducive to an authentic experience. Yes, the ruins were magnificent & the idea that they still remain with us is a testament to humanity. I’d compare it with watching a movie like Schindler’s List — I’m better for having seen it, but I didn’t enjoy it.
Acropolis Crowds
Acropolis
But enough ranting about the Acropolis, let’s talk about the less crowded ruins of Athens, which are equal in splendor & nestled between cozy cafes & shady streets. From the Acropolis, we walked past the Old Temple of Athena on Theorias & stopped at the Klepsidra Cafe. Klepsidra’s food was wonderful, the owner exemplified Greek hospitality, & the location was perfectly situated for people watching. We continued our rambling towards the Roman Agora, Library of Pantainos, & Hadrian’s Library.
Klepsidra Cafe
Klepsidras street
Klepsidras street
Gate of Athena
Roman Agora
Roman Agora
Clare & Aimee at Roman Agora
Roman Agora
Roman Agora
Hadrian’s Library complex
Hadrian’s Library complex
Hadrian’s Library complex
Hadrian’s Library
Hadrian’s Library
Hadrian’s Library complex
We took a break from ancient ruins by leisurely strolling through the market streets of Monastiraki & into the Plaka area. I couldn’t stop taking pictures here! Everything was so full of color & life, which was a beautiful contrast with the decaying buildings. There was art everywhere, not just in the graffiti & murals, but in the buildings themselves.
Monastiraki
Monastiraki
Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens
Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens
Ayios Eleytherios
Ayios Eleytherios
Plaka
Plaka
Plaka
Plaka
Plaka
Plaka
Plaka graffiti
Plaka graffiti
Aimee & gelato
Continuing past Plaka & Syntagma Square, we relaxed for awhile in the National Garden which provided plenty of shady walking paths & a break from the crowds.
We walked through the park to reach the Panathenaic Stadium, where the first modern Olympics were held. It cost extra to enter the stadium, which we could easily see from outside the entrance, so we took a quick photo & continued on.
We explored the Temple of Olympian Zeus & Hadrian’s Arch, where we amused ourselves by watching the next generation of Instagram & YouTube moguls make fools of themselves for selfies. My favorite was the young man balancing a selfie stick while flexing his biceps in front of the Zeus temple. Then again, my own sister couldn’t resist…
I had been told that a long day of walking & sightseeing in Athens should always end with dinner on a rooftop, & we gladly took that advice. Comfort food & cocktails at the Thea Terrace Bar, at the top of Central Athens Hotel, provided the perfect way to soak up our last view of Athens.
Mastika at Thea Terrace
