Canada, Hiking, Slow travel, Travel Diary

They Told Us Not to Go to St. John’s

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woman hiking North Head section of East Coast Trail Newfoundland

“You won’t be happy in St. John’s now that you’ve been here, you’ll miss this place.”

Nearly these exact words were spoken to us by two different people in two different places – Fleur de Lys and Trinity. But how could we drive all this way to Newfoundland and not visit their biggest city? Besides, we were here to hike the best trails and the East Coast Trail runs right through St. John’s.

man hiking to puffin colony in Elliston Newfoundland
Had we not stopped in Trinity, we would have missed this gorgeous view in Elliston.

Friendly hospitality in Trinity East

We are not immune to persuasion, however, so we shaved one day off our original itinerary so that we could stop in Trinity East for a night. Like so many decisions made on this trip, we adapted our plans when our gut drew us to a particular place. Home of the Brightside Bistro and Sisters Inn, Trinity East was the perfect stop to break up our long drive from Fleur de Lys to St. John’s.

Brightside Bistro and Sisters Inn, Trinity East Newfoundland

When we walked into the door of Brightside Bistro, the only thing we knew about this place was that Eric was impressed by their menu.

Yes, we alter our itineraries based on menus.

Jaime, one of the owners, greeted us as soon as we arrived and proceeded to chat with us amidst a bustling atmosphere of lively conversation. The place was bright and happy and pumping with good music. In our beautifully decorated room directly above the dining room, I threw myself on the bed with outstretched arms and said “I feel like we’ve been transported to Ireland to one of our favorite pubs.”

bedroom at Sisters Inn, Trinity East Newfoundland

At dinner, we discovered Chef Nikki was off for the night so Eric would miss that menu he’d been drooling over. With the face of a sad puppy, Eric quickly recovered once his fish and chips arrived. My chicken sandwich didn’t sound exciting either but it was FANTASTIC! As was our roasted beet and apple salad and my frou-frou beverage.

Our fellow diners were a mix of hikers (LOVE seeing hiking boots in a restaurant) and the owners’ family members. Father’s Day was that weekend and they were gearing up for a big bar-b-que the next day. With the ease of a master networker, Jaime pulled everyone into conversation that night. We learned that the bistro had just opened a month ago and that evening was the first night this chef was in charge of the kitchen. No one would have been the wiser, everyone working that night moved and spoke like old pros.

At breakfast, the conversations continued and really took off once we realized we shared a passion for Dave Matthews, the Lumineers and Mumford & Sons. They actually named the cafe after a Lumineers song. Jaime showed us the coffee bar they’re adding and I could see how deeply passionate the Brightside team are about this place. They all have jobs elsewhere and drive from Gander and St. John’s – that is a real commitment and it’s always refreshing to see people doing something that they love.

Making friends on the Skerwink Trail

Besides the food, we had also chosen Trinity so we could hike the Skerwink Trail, which often makes the “top 5” of Newfoundland hikes. Skerwink was beautiful, and you should absolutely hike it, but it was very crowded. I wish we had known about the other trails in this area, especially the Fox Island Trail which looked amazing!

quiet moment at beginning of Skerwink, before everyone caught up with us

I was surprised at how many photos I actually took of Skerwink, because my memories of this trail are mostly of conversations or me humming a tune to distract myself from how badly I needed to pee. There were plenty of trees and tucked away places, just too many darn people.

Had we left early, however, we would not have met the lovely people that we did. One couple from New Hampshire chatted with us off and on as we swapped photo spots and we bonded with others as we approached a den of foxes with baby pups.

family of foxes on Skerwink Trail in Newfoundland
family of foxes on Skerwink Trail

But the older couple from Montreal was our favorite. We spent nearly an hour on the trail visiting with them, swapping travel stories as we seemed to share the same travel style. They were very interested in our Trips to Walkabout site and challenged me to find more companies that offer walking tours in French. Défi accepté.

woman hiking Skerwink Trail with man taking photo in background
my buddy from Montreal in background, we're in half his photos as he is in ours

Towards the end of the Skerwink Trail is a beach with views of a lighthouse and island (if it’s not foggy). Most people walked right past it but we love our beach walks so we sauntered for awhile.

Exploring Bonavista Peninsula

We had one day to explore the Bonavista Peninsula and that included our morning hike on Skerwink. The town of Elliston claims to be the root cellar capital of the world and they have puffins, so that was of course a mandatory stop. As expected, Elliston was crowded with tourists so I highly recommend coming early in the morning if you visit. The town was precious and I could easily see myself hunting for the root cellars and taking pictures of all of them. While I was disappointed by the puffins (they were too far for photos), I was awed by the beautiful cliffside walk. It reminded us of Mykines Island where we first saw puffins in the Faroe Islands.

The roads were terrible on Bonavista and it seemed to be something the locals just took in stride. Dodging potholes became entertainment! That didn’t deter us from enjoying a scenic drive around the entire peninsula, especially when there were icebergs on the horizon.

We arrive in St. John's

Our new friends pegged us well, for as we arrived in St. John’s I could feel my wings curling back into my body. St. John’s isn’t a large city by any means and it’s located directly on the coast with beautiful scenery all around. But they were right, we immediately wanted to be back in the small outports. It didn’t help that our Airbnb was a basement apartment below homeowners who had no idea how loud they were. I’m still not sure if it was the dog that sounded like he was breaking things or if they were teaching aerobics classes while wearing steel shoes. Nicest couple and best location near Quidi Vidi, but boy was it LOUD!

view of St John's Newfoundland
photo courtesy of onepony from Getty Images Pro

Noise aside, it was nice to be back in a city where food options were more plentiful. Eric was starting to look like a scruffy nerf herder (any Star Wars fans here?) so we walked into Moammar’s Barbershop for a trim. I knew he was in good hands when I saw how meticulously placed everything was on Moammar’s shelf. He quickly felt the shape of Eric’s head and then the Edward Scissor Hands magic began. The man was quick and precise and I could tell that it was bothering him that Eric wouldn’t let him touch his beard. This was a barber who expected perfection, it was like watching art! His job done, Moammar looked to me for approval, I nodded, and Eric walked out with the best cut he will probably ever have.

moose sausage, halloumi and fresh chard, yum!

Hiking sections of the East Coast Trail

I had a list of sections that we could hike along the East Coast Trail, Newfoundland’s famous long-distance trail. Our original plan was to hire transport services each day so that we could hike entire sections and be returned to our car. By this point in our 50-day trip, we didn’t want to be confined to a schedule so we opted to hike shorter versions each day, simply turning around on the trail whenever we felt like it.

Our first hike was Silver Mine Head, parking at Middle Cove Beach and heading northwest up the coast. I wasn’t feeling well that day so we only hiked 3 miles, turning around where the homes were directly on the trail (just past the bridge and waterfall). Coastal hikes are always our favorite, and this one followed closely along the edge so we loved it!

We didn’t plan it this way, but the next day we reached our 100th mile of hiking on this trip exactly at North Head on the East Coast Trail. We arrived early which ensured a parking spot at the popular Cape Spear Lighthouse

Heading south on the trail, we stopped for lunch at North Head and visited with a group of Newfoundlanders, one of which had cousins that live in Baton Rouge. They were impressed with my Newfie accent but said Eric needed work.

Weather was not on our side for most of our stay in St. John’s, so our third day of hiking the East Coast Trail was short-lived. We drove past Torbay and Pouch Cove, both pretty towns I would recommend for an alternative to the city. It was raining as we drove up the road to Cape Saint Francis, which was in terrible condition so we actually parked at one point and walked the rest of the way.

lodging on East Coast Trail near White Horse Path in Newfoundland

The rain was getting worse and fog was moving in, so we only hiked a short portion of the White Horse Path. It was beautiful, probably my favorite spot, but it’s also one of the most difficult sections of the ECT and dangerous in bad weather. Just when we thought we were the only crazy ones to come out in this weather, we met up with two young men, one who went to university here and the other who was visiting from San Antonio, Texas. Neither had a rain jacket or hiking boots, just “out for a stroll.”

white horse path section of East Coast Trail Newfoundland

The end for us but beginning for others

The morning we left Newfoundland, we walked to Quidi Vidi. It was pretty and Instagram-worthy but I couldn’t help feeling sorry for the people who live there. It’s a tiny area and I can’t imagine what it’s like during high tourist season. We watched as high school seniors dressed in formal gowns and suits had their photos taken. A woman told us that graduations are a week-long celebration in Newfoundland and they have a big party similar to our proms here in the States.

We stopped for a picnic lunch at Topsail Beach, where the East Coast Trail begins. Yesterday morning we were bundled up in coats and our eyelashes were freezing, today was warm and full of sunshine. Appropriate, as it was the first official day of summer for school kids. Children were walking around in shorts and tube tops and rushing from school to stop at Berg’s for ice cream. Eating our beet and wheat berry salad, we watched as families played on the beach, thinking “time to go home, the crowds are out and the sun is shining.”

Topsail Beach playground in Newfoundland
Topsail Beach before the sun and people arrived

Sobering moments on ship

Our adventures weren’t quite over yet, as we hopped on the Argentia Ferry for our 16-hour overnight return to Cape Breton. WiFi never worked and food options were scarce so we splurged on the buffet supper. Bring snacks and books, that’s my advice for anyone taking the ferries to Newfoundland! A ferry is always an adventure, however, and this was no exception. We eavesdropped on people listening to the news on their phones, they had just announced that the Titan submersible had experienced a catastrophic implosion and everyone had died. We had been watching search helicopters fly by that week as we hiked near St. John’s, where the Titan began its journey. Sobering news, which is probably why I had a panic attack when we turned off our cabin lights that night. In a room with no windows and sinking submarines playing in my mind, I felt the need to reach out and hold Eric’s hand. Life is a risk and I’ll never regret living it to the fullest as long as he’s by my side.

man in cabin on Argentia Ferry from Newfoundland

Final advice for visiting Newfoundland

When to visit

  • Mid-June is the sweet spot. It’s the best time if you want to feel more local, have cooler temps for hiking, less crowded trails and businesses are open. The only downside is missing the chance to hike Gros Morne Mountain.

Choosing an itinerary

  • If you only have 1 week, pick a side (west or east) and don’t try to squeeze in the entire island. You’ll miss out on the experiences that make this place so special.
  • If you have 2 weeks, split them up between east and west Newfoundland, spending more days on the west coast if you prefer day hikes and small fishing towns. If the East Coast Trail is what you’re after, spend your entire trip on the east side and add in some time for one of the neighboring peninsulas.
  • If you have time to spare or you prefer off-the-beaten path places and interesting people, head straight to the northern outports and immerse yourself in one of the friendliest cultures in the world.

Read our Hiking Guide to Eastern Newfoundland if you’re interested in planning a hiking trip. If you missed our previous stories about this trip, you’ll find them at Trails and Tales of Western Newfoundland and Fleur de Lys Newfoundland, Land of Storytellers and Icebergs.

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Canada, Slow travel, Travel Diary

Fleur de Lys Newfoundland, Land of Storytellers and Icebergs

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woman standing amongst bergy bits in Petit Nord Newfoundland

The smell of ice — that’s the strongest sensory memory that hits me first as I sit down to write about our time in Fleur de Lys, Newfoundland. And I’m not talking ice like you pull out of your freezer. I’m talking about the smell of glaciers so clean and mineral rich they overwhelm every other smell around. I find myself sucking in air so deeply I get lightheaded, because I just can’t get enough of it.

man taking photo of icebergs near Fleur de Lys Newfoundland

No one told me you could smell icebergs. Some reports say that old sailors claim they smell like cucumbers. If you mean frozen cucumbers then that’s probably the closest description, although it still doesn’t quite capture the scent. This was my first time to see them and it wasn’t even what brought us to this remote northern outport.

We were here to meet The Woman of the Sea.

Why Fleur de Lys and not Twillingate

Throughout this trip, when people found out we were exploring the northern region, their faces would light up and immediately mouth the words “you’re going to Twillingate?” Their faces would fall when we said “no, we’re going to Fleur de Lys.” Locals and tourists showed the same response. It was like we’d rejected their favorite toy. Why on earth would anyone skip the most popular tourist destination in northern Newfoundland? The place with the biggest icebergs, best restaurants and photo opportunities.

iceberg seen off the coast of Twillingate, photo courtesy of Scott Heaney from Getty Images

Our answer was simple. We came to the north to meet people and to witness the daily life of an outport town. It would be hard to accomplish that in Twillingate or the exclusive Fogo Island, but we felt sure we’d find it in the Baie Verte Peninsula, specifically amongst the Petit Nord communities. Named by the French who would seasonally fish these coasts for cod, the Petit Nord stretches from Quirpon to Cape St. John, a coastline dotted with tiny outports that each have their own unique personality and history.

Petit Nord sign in Ming's Bight Newfoundland

Fleur de Lys' Woman of the Sea

We were staying in Fleur de Lys at Woman of the Sea, home and culinary playground for one of the most loving souls we’ve ever met. Kim is a trained chef who offers catered dinners from her home and two bedrooms with a shared bath to rent. When we were perusing Airbnb  for lodging, there was something about Kim’s listing that drew us to her place and we’ve learned to trust our intuition. Call it fate, kismet, Divine Providence, or cosmic forces, I can tell you we were meant to meet Kim. Something clicked the minute we walked through her door, welcomed with coffee and tea buns.

Kim and Eric swap recipes and talk "chef stuff" over breakfast

Our first night in Fleur de Lys was spent visiting with Kim at her kitchen table over fresh pan-fried cod, mashed potatoes and tangy slaw. Born and raised here, Kim has led a fascinating life which has brought her across the globe and back. She hopes to write a memoir and I know it will be a powerful story. With her lyrical Newfie accent and direct way of speaking, Kim is a great storyteller. She’s also an avid reader, her bookshelves are full of cookbooks and history books about Irish independence and rural Newfoundland. A soul sister for sure! To convey just how much we connected with Kim, she used the term “Salt of the Earth” when describing us in our review on Airbnb and I just couldn’t believe it because I had written notes about our stay here the night before and used that exact phrase to describe the residents of Fleur de Lys.

Sam's Place of healing

Kim became our gateway to Fleur de Lys and the Baie Verte area. Through her we met others who continued our education. Like Mary and Bernadine from Sam’s Place, where we learned that “couldn’s” was “what I couldn’t eat yesterday I’ll eat today” – aka leftovers. We warmed ourselves with moose soup (which had been secretly stashed for us at Kim’s request) while Mary (originally from Ontario) kept us laughing as she expounded on all the reasons she hates Newfoundland in the winter (but you can tell she absolutely loves it here). Bernadine was the mother hen of Sam’s Place, quietly welcoming guests with a twinkle in her eye, shaking her head fondly at Mary’s antics. She reminded me so much of Iris who used to work for the Jennings Library – same twinkle, same love and joy pouring out of her.

carrot cake and coffee at Sam's Place in Fleur de Lys Newfoundland
carrot cake at Sam's Place baked by owner Millie Walsh

There’s something sacred about visiting Sam’s Place. Part cafe, part living memorial, this building is the beating heart of Fleur de Lys, representing both the best and worst of humanity. You will find a tragic story here, the kind of brutality and loss that no parent should ever have to endure, but you won’t find the despair that is expected with such pain. Instead, you’ll find a warm light-filled space, where neighbors from outports all around come to visit or have an informal therapy session. Where smiles and hugs are given out like candy. Eric and I went upstairs, where Sam’s childhood playthings are on display. We read the letters on the walls, a mere sampling of 15,000 that were sent to Sam’s parents from all over the world, reminding us all that there is more light in this world than darkness. Sam’s parents, Millie and George,  built a place of healing, not just for themselves but for all those who pass through these doors. 

I purposefully don’t go into details about what happened to Samantha Walsh because I feel the story that should be remembered is one of light and love, but if you want to try to understand the impact on this tiny community, you’ll find an excellent podcast here.

Exploring trails near Fleur de Lys

The reason we needed hot moose soup at Sam’s was because we’d been hiking in the rain that morning. Many outports in northern Newfoundland have at least one community trail that leads to the water, each offering beautiful views of the coastline in different ways. We only spent two nights in Fleur de Lys and the weather didn’t cooperate, but we managed to sneak in as many of these trails as possible.

woman next to Canadian flag on Pacquet hiking trail in Newfoundland

Our first Petit Nord trail was the Ocean View Trail in Pacquet, one of the best short trails we walked in Newfoundland. It began with a viewpoint at Chesley’s Hole, so named for the man who once fell down its cavernous depths and lived to tell about it. It followed the coast out to a large Canadian flag at the tip of the harbor. There was a forest path which looped back to the parking lot but we didn’t take it, choosing to retrace our steps because we couldn’t get enough of the icebergs.

We drove to Coachman’s Cove for our next hike. At the parking lot in front of a large outdoor oven we met a man who I will call Fonz. I don’t know his real name and it’s not from lack of trying. He told us his name several times but his accent was so thick we couldn’t determine what he was actually saying. Fonz held us captive for over 30 minutes while he talked proudly of his town and how a neighboring town (which will remain unnamed) “stole” their artifacts. He talked about working in the asbestos mine which closed down years ago. His face was ravaged by what I can only guess was a very hard life, and it was a stark reminder of why so many Newfoundlanders from these remote outports have left over the years. He also told us how the bread ovens are used during local festivals and Come Home Years.

The first Come Home Year was in 1966 in an effort to increase tourism by inviting expats to return home and rediscover the wonders of Newfoundland. Individual communities continued that tradition throughout the years and in 2022 the provincial government promoted another big Come Home Year. Locals told us a small town might double or triple its population in a day during the events. There would be so much traffic on roads that local entities were begging for volunteers to help fill potholes. Despite the headaches, there’s a definite pride and fondness for this tradition. It speaks to the Newfoundland value of keeping people at the heart of everything.

man standing with arms outstretched towards the ocean full of icebergs
Eric fully embraced northern Newfoundland, you'd have thought he was returning home

Back in Fleur de Lys we hiked their Ocean View Trail. Our intent was to also hike the Spotted Point Trail behind the Dorset Soapstone Museum but weather was not on our side and the museum was closed for the season. Everyone said it’s a great trail, combining excellent views with the history of the soapstone quarry which dates back 1,200-1,600 years ago when pre-Inuit peoples used this resource.

Stories and warm hospitality

Our second evening in Fleur de Lys found us sitting on couches, reading and listening to Willie Nelson and Lucinda Williams as Kim cooked dinner for a book club group. They were discussing The Pearl that Broke Its Shell by Nadia Hashimi, which I found interesting considering Kim’s life experiences. I could tell she was intrigued by the book. Lucy, Kim’s neighbor growing up, was her kitchen assistant for the evening and was delightful to visit with. One of the women in the book club had worked in Lafayette as a travel nurse years ago, the same hospital our friend Lauren works. I should stop being surprised by how interconnected our world truly is.

My favorite part of the morning was listening to Kim whistle in the kitchen while she cooked us breakfast. I’ve never heard anyone who could whistle a tune that well. When asking Kim about what winters were like, she told us about the year the water froze and a polar bear crossed over from Labrador into their town and everyone had to shelter in place for two days while they hunted the polar bear. They stunned him and flew him back home on a helicopter. Even apex predators are treated with respect here.

One only needs to visit Fleur de Lys for a day to understand that these coastal communities know hard times, but what makes them so special in this world is how survival has molded them into a compassionate, hopeful people. People like Kim and Millie and her team at Sam’s Place who find joy in everyday moments and know their joy is amplified when sharing that joy with others. You know the warmth you feel when you walk into a local cafe and they’ve got the fireplace going and your waitress calls you lovie? That’s what Fleur de Lys and north Newfoundland feels like. Like one big polar bear hug, warmth amidst a cold rugged land.

Want more hiking trails in northern Newfoundland? See our Iceberg Trails of Northern Newfoundland on Trips to Walkabout. And if you missed our stories about Gros Morne and Blow Me Down Mts, read Trails and Tales of Western Newfoundland.

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Canada, Hiking, Travel Diary

Trails and Tales of Western Newfoundland

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woman sitting on ledge with hiking pack looking out at ocean from Newfoundland

There is something about arriving at a new place by boat that immediately says “you have reached an exotic location, prepare to be amazed!” That’s how we feel boarding the large ferry that will take us to Port aux Basques in western Newfoundland. We haven’t even arrived yet and already we know this is going to be one epic adventure!

man looking out window on ferry to Newfoundland

Ferry to Newfoundland

It’s a 7-hour journey across the sea, plenty of time for the anticipation to build amongst our fellow passengers. During dinner, we eavesdrop on a group of women on a bus tour talking about one of their fellow tourmates who is 94 years old and apparently does these tours all the time. They are all amazed by this woman who travels by herself and I’m silently adding my awe, mentally promising myself to be that 94 year old woman someday.

Margaree, Newfoundland

Instead of spending our first evening in Port aux Basques or driving straight to Gros Morne as so many others do, we opt for the quiet seaside village of Margaree. We are staying with Karen, sleeping in her daughter’s old bedroom which still houses her extensive book collection. I see Nancy Drew, Harry Potter, The Hiding Place and so many others that I love. Her daughter is grown now but visits every Sunday for dinner and to teach a yoga class in town. While Karen shows us the kitchen, living room and bathroom which we’ll be sharing with one other guest, we talk about hurricanes and she tells us her mom lost her home in Hurricane Fiona last year. She also has dandelion jelly, which seems to be a theme on this trip!

view from the front of our Airbnb in Margaree

Karen encourages us to explore this southern section of Newfoundland but to do so before the sun sets (to avoid moose), so we hop in our car and drive to Isle aux Morts. So named because of the many shipwrecks that have occurred off its coast, Isle aux Morts puts me in mind to read some Emily Bronte. I love the stark landscape here, reminds me of Andrew Wyeth paintings, and there are some excellent trails to hike, but alas, we must return as it’s getting dark

Isle aux Morts Newfoundland

First moose sighting

Can you believe, it’s our first full day in Newfoundland and we see a moose! She’s standing right on the side of the highway, so close I can reach out the window and almost touch her (which yes, I know would be a very bad idea). Of course we’re both so shocked that I fail to grab my phone and a photo opportunity is lost, but that’s quickly forgotten as we begin to see glimpses of Newfoundland’s Long Range Mountains. They are glorious! No words can fully describe them and no single photo can do them justice. These mountains will be our steady companion for the next 10 days, as we explore the different sections (including Gros Morne).

Long Range Mountains in Newfoundland

Stephenville, Newfoundland

We need a tire repair, so we stop in Stephenville where we meet a moose hunter at Canadian Tire. The woman has weathered leathery skin, long thin legs and a muscular upper body, and I can’t help but think that she resembles the animals she’s hunting. We eat at Domino Pizza House (no relation to the American chain), which is run by the daughters of a Swiss immigrant who opened the pizzeria in 1964. We walk a few blocks in town, stopping at Danny’s Bakery to pick up some pastries. There’s a sign on her door saying the business is for sale and that seems to be the sad state of affairs for most of Stephenville, which once housed “the largest military airport of the United States Army outside of the continental U.S.A.”

We need to kill some time before checking in to our lodging, so we stop for a quick hike at Barachois Pond Provincial Park. It’s a rare sunny day and the trail is thick with vegetation and bugs, so we don’t particularly enjoy this one. Eric fleetingly sees a young moose on this trail but once again we’re not quick enough on the draw for a photo.

Eric has done his research and mapped out the best grocery stores closest to our lodging. This is important not just for cost-saving but also for healthy eating. We’ve learned the hard way how difficult it can be to find fresh produce in small villages, so we always prepare for that. Corner Brook is a nice large town with a good grocery store so we stop here before heading to York Harbour, where we’ve rented an Airbnb from a lovely couple who lives next door.

zucchini and potato soup
a luxuriously healthy meal, thanks to Corner Brook zucchini and soup mix from Cape Breton

Lark Harbour and OBIEC Trails

Holy cow, the wind here is insane! No wonder they call this the Blow Me Down region. Our hiking destination today is Lark Harbour, an adorable fishing town that boasts one really good restaurant, a small grocery store and enough trails to hike for two or three days. We begin with Cedar Cove Trail, sharing parking space with busy fishermen who are disembarking for their daily catch. It begins with scraggly cedar trees that look like a haunted forest and within a few feet we see what looks to be a large femur bone that still has cartilage attached. Apparently moose hunting occurs here and someone wasn’t tidy, or the locals like playing practical jokes on unsuspecting tourists.

Just as I begin questioning this trail, it turns into a peaceful green forest. We begin seeing flotsam and jetsam folk art, pieces of plastic and trash creatively arranged and hanging from trees. And suddenly our view opens to a vast cove, wedged between large cliffs. A wind tunnel like we’ve never experienced prevents us from walking down towards the beach. It’s so loud that Eric and I can’t hear each other and we stand here in awe of nature’s power.

We walk a short bit along Little Port Lighthouse, a more difficult trail that connects to Cedar Cove. Just enough to get a good view of the fishing docks.

With wind burnt cheeks and childlike delight on our faces, we head to Bottle Cove Trail just up the road. This one seems to be more popular but it’s still off-season so we only see a few people. It begins at a beach with a boardwalk and replica of the Grenville Schooner used during James Cook’s explorations of Newfoundland.

The wind is strong here too and I have to cinch my coat hood tightly over my ball cap so it doesn’t fly away. The views on this trail are completely different yet equally amazing. We continue on along the Southhead Lighthouse Trail but turn around as the weather deteriorates.

We have to leave York Harbour today but we sneak in one last hike. The Cape Blow Me Down Trail is part of the International Appalachian Trail and while it’s a moderately difficult trek, requiring ropes in some sections, the views at the summit are spectacular! Just as I think we’re going to stop, Eric keeps walking and says “just a little further” and I’m so glad he does because we might have missed the alpine lake and snow waiting for us at the top. We are a muddy mess by the time we arrive at our Airbnb to pack up and leave. Our gracious host allows us to check out late so that we can take a shower. Blessings upon you Joan, for all eternity!

Glenburnie and Gros Morne Trails

We stop for groceries in Deer Lake on our way to Glenburnie where we’ll be for a week. We’re staying in an old school house that’s been converted into an Airbnb. While it’s still under renovation and has some quirks that need to be worked out, we LOVE our time here! Large windows in the kitchen and living room give us clear views of Bonne Bay, which separates the north and south sections of Gros Morne National Park.

There’s only one major issue with the old school house, the ancient gas stove. I’ve seen my husband put himself in uncomfortable situations throughout this trip and not once has he complained, but the thing that finally breaks him is this stove. It takes several meal preps and a slew of cursing that would have made Captain Cook and his crew proud before Eric adapts to a new way of cooking. Peace reigns once again and I can return to writing and whale watching.

antique gas stove in Newfoundland

I don’t want to hike the Tablelands Trail but Eric makes me. There are too many people here and I see tour buses [insert look of horror]. Shame on me, however, because there’s a good reason for this trail’s popularity. It’s short and easy and the terrain is unlike anything you’ll see in the world. It’s an alien landscape, made up of serpentine rocks and turmeric-colored rocks that were pushed up from the earth’s mantle 500 million years ago. We can honestly say we’ve now “journeyed to the center of the earth.” We spot caribou off in the distance and marvel at how excited people are over what most would consider ugly rocks.

Speaking of ugly rocks, the Green Gardens Trail begins with said ugly rocks and I’m scratching my head at why on earth they named it such. The first half of this trail feels like a desert in Arizona, then it evolves into terrain reminiscent of Colorado’s Rocky National Park. It’s all downhill, rocky and exposed, which has me thinking the return will be a nightmare.

As we reach the ocean, we are suddenly transported to an Irish landscape, complete with boggy paths covered in sheep poo and fascinating rock formations. Down on the beach, Eric and I pass the time naming the different rock formations. We have the entire trail to ourselves, only seeing one couple early on at the beginning of the hike and several groups arriving as we leave.

Driving down into Woody Point, I spot what looks like a whale moving slowly through the bay, and sure enough there is a pod of minke whales! We pull off with other cars and enjoy our first whale sighting while visiting with a couple from Nova Scotia.

It’s raining so today is a work day for us, but we need snacks. So we head to Roy Young Convenience Store to grab some poutine flavored chips. We visit with Roy, who is selling his shop and hoping someone younger will purchase it and keep it going. When we tell him where we’re staying, he says he went to school there and Eric can verify because the old school registers are still in the house.

bag of Ruffles poutine chips

We rise early this morning because we’re heading to the north section of Gros Morne and want to hike as many trails as possible in one day. The landscape changes dramatically as we arrive at the northern side of the bay. We stop for a potty break at the Mill Brook rest stop, which has picnic tables, an indoor kitchen, nice bathroom and a serene rocky beach with a dock and gorgeous views.

Preferring trails without crowds, we head to Western Brook Pond hours before the boat tours begin. It’s raining and foggy so we’re skipping the boat tour and just hiking to the boat launch, taking the side trail on our return which winds through a peaceful thicket and a wide stream.

Hungry and a little cold, we stop at Whales Back Grub Hub for grilled cheese sandwiches which are the saddest sandwiches we’ve ever eaten. Should have ordered the burgers, which people rave about. But the coffee, muffins and people are great! We enjoy visiting with the owner who tells us about growing up here and living in Ontario where he worked in the tech field for 25 years before returning home. We stop at the SS Ethie shipwreck, which has stairs taking us down to a beach where the corroded remains of the ship have rested since 1919.

shipwreck beach in Gros Morne Newfoundland

Green Point is another excellent viewpoint, even though it’s so windy we have to cover our ears with our hoods. Green Point’s 500 million year old rock wall is used by geologists as a reference point for dating our planet. A colorful fishing village with some functional art is just icing on the cake.

Our next trail today is the Coastal Trail which provides us with an incredibly windy but gorgeous view of the coastline. We begin from the south trail entrance and walk north towards Green Point Campground. A young woman and child are playing in the tide pools where we spot fresh coral and so many seashells I can’t even begin to count them. My eyes don’t know where to settle as the ocean is on my left, ancient cliffs in front, marshland teeming with birds and possibly caribou to the right and all this with the mountains as backdrop. This trail is interesting from beginning to end!

If parking at south entrance (not Green Point), a few miles into the trail look for a grove of trees and some boards leading into it. Walk into this, it’s a hidden forest of tuckamore trees, so named for the creepy formation they take by tucking themselves away from the wind over time. People have built forts inside here and it’s amazing how quiet it is inside this tightly woven glen.

Our last viewpoint for the day ends up being almost 2 miles of trails. Lobster Cove is a delightful surprise, with its lighthouse and meandering pathways. We climb over rocks and hunt for treasures. I feel lighter, as if old skin is being shed, decades of adulthood forgotten as I reclaim the adventurous child I used to be.

Eric is curious what Norris Point has to offer in terms of food and lodging (since we almost stayed here), so we drive around and stop at C & J Rumbolt bakery for snacks and bread. They have a good selection of sandwich bread, cereal, crackers, sweets and frozen goods. Pretty much everything a bachelor would need to survive.

view from Norris Point boat launch

We’ve discovered some Norris Point community trails, but alas, not enough time to hike them! I take notes for our Trips to Walkabout site and we proceed to our last trail of the day. Southeast Falls is a quick climb to a convergence of waterfalls. It’s impressive but I’d love to see it from the ground below. The viewpoint here is just enough to tease but not enough to capture the entire grandeur of these falls.

We pass the big hike, Gros Morne Mountain, because the summit is closed in May and June, but we stop at a viewpoint to capture the peak for which this park is named. It means “big lone mountain” and is the second highest peak in Newfoundland.

Gros Morne Mountain

Maybe we’ve been in the woods too long, because the next day we begin rewriting the lyrics to Garth Brooks’ “Friends in Low Places.” 

I’ve got fronds in low places, where the river flows and the moose chases our hopes away. But I’ll be okay. I’m not big on social places. Think I’ll slip on into my boots and laces. Oh I got fronds, in low places.

I blame the trail we just attempted to hike, Lomond River Trail, which was impassable unless we had gaiters and fully waterproof boots. We did get a lovely view of the water from that trail but now we’re exploring Stuckless Pond and apparently getting a bit loopy.

We hang out for quite some time at the bridge crossing Lomond River and turn around shortly after this, as we only came prepared for a short hike today. Pity, because Stuckless Pond is a fantastic trail (at least what we’ve seen so far).

Our last night in western Newfoundland, we hear a moose walking around the house. Eric flies out of bed to try and see it but it’s too dark. When we wake the next morning, there are hoof prints everywhere. Once again, the moose eludes us.

Thoughts on Western Newfoundland

  • Eating healthy is a challenge, especially the further you get from Corner Brook. Finding leafy greens and protein that’s not fried takes work.
  • Gros Morne is certainly worth visiting, but our favorite area of western Newfoundland is Corner Brook and the Outer Bay Islands. If you’re planning an itinerary and have to shorten your visit to Gros Morne by a day or two in order to fit this area in, do it!
  • Book the Western Brook Pond boat tour or one of the guided hikes that takes you further into this area – it’s the only way you’ll get those impressive fjord views that everyone loves to post. (I regret that we didn’t do this.)
  • If your heart is set on hiking to the peak of Gros Morne Mt, don’t visit in May or June. We were willing to forego this trail in order to hike without crowds and to be here during peak iceberg season, but it’s a personal choice.

Stay tuned for part two of our Newfoundland trip, in which we explore the northern outports where icebergs and people take center stage and we learn firsthand why the East Coast Trail is famous worldwide.

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