Canada, Hiking, Slow travel, Travel Diary, Walking Holidays

Trails and Tales of Cape Breton

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woman in fog on top of Blueberry Mt

Our plans for Cape Breton were to spend two weeks hiking as many trails as possible. One week on the western shore in Chéticamp and one on the eastern shore in Ingonish. Then we would move to Sydney for a few days to explore Bras d’Or Lake and Goat Island. This would have allowed us to experience the three prominent cultures of Cape Breton: Acadian, Gaelic and Mi’kmaw. Of course the nature of plans is that they always change.

“Weather is predictably unpredictable in Cape Breton” says everyone who visits or lives here.

We got lucky for our first week in Chéticamp. Our scenic drive from Prince Edward Island through New Brunswick was a gorgeous sunny day and we were rewarded with a beautiful sunset that evening from our Airbnb on the Cabot Trail.

colorful sunset in Cheticamp Cape Breton

Hiking Skyline Trail without crowds

We chose Skyline Trail for our first day of hiking because it was raining, which meant we would most likely be the only ones on the trail. By the time we reached the boarded staircase for which this trail is famous, the skies had cleared and we were blessed with some amazing views.

We continued on the longer loop trail which is a quiet walk with coastal views and lots of moose scat. This part of the trail didn’t have the exciting lookout of the shorter Skyline section but the terrain was interesting as it changed from short scruffy trees to flat savannah. I was most fascinated by the large fenced area that looked like something from Jurassic Park, only this fence was meant to keep out moose instead of dinosaurs. Alas, no moose sightings.

Hiking MacIntosh Falls, easy add-on

Having finished Skyline before lunch we had time to hike MacIntosh Falls, an easy walk that follows a river until you reach the waterfall. We only saw one other person on this trail and we learned that any trail in Cape Breton that says “water” means it’s going to be a beautiful walk.

Hiking Blueberry Mountain, twice

Our second day of hiking began with snow on the ground, followed by sun and then fog so thick you could bathe in it. The waitress at L’abri Cafe had recommended we hike Blueberry Mountain, a local favorite that’s in the park but no longer listed as an official trail. We knew we’d have some streams to cross but didn’t realize one of those would be so fast moving, forcing us off trail in order to cross more safely.

Blueberry Mountain was my favorite trail in the park, and I should know because we hiked it twice. Maybe it was the fog or the challenging terrain, but this trail felt like we’d stepped onto another planet in which we were the only inhabitants. It’s a tough trail that ascends the entire time with rocky terrain but once you reach the top the world opens up into fields of gnarly trees and alpine flora.

The thick fog meant we couldn’t see the mountains all around but it allowed my imagination to fill in the blank canvas. Fresh moose scat was everywhere so I know they were close, watching us behind their invisibility cloaks that I’m convinced they all have. My preoccupation is probably why I dropped something on the trail and didn’t realize it until we had hiked half way back down the mountain.

Can you guess what it was?

woman holding a plastic bag with guilty look on her face

Yes, the one thing I will not hike without — my trusted pee funnel. This simple device offers liberation for all female hikers, allowing us to pee like a man and never have to worry about baring our nethers to poisened plants or freezing cold temps. With another month left ahead of us to hike, there was no question that we’d be hiking back up to find it and thankfully we did…all the way at the top.

Corney Brook all to ourselves

After Blueberry we hopped on the Corney Brook Trail, which was a little steeper than the MacIntosh Falls but well worth it for the constant flowing water throughout the trail and the pretty waterfall at the end.

The trailhead for Corney Brook was across from a small campground with the best ocean views in the park. We walked the beach here, had lunch and enjoyed the perks of off-season travel when no one else is around.

corney brook campsite looking down at beach

Acadian Trail, full of surprises

Acadian Trail was Eric’s favorite and it’s a popular one, partly because the trailhead begins at the park’s visitor center but also because the terrain is so diverse. The first half is full of viewpoints overlooking the ocean and mountains.

At the top, Acadian transitions into a flat terrain where trees are scraggly due to hungry moose. It’s also where we encountered two snakes, which totally freaked me out.

trees on Acadian Trail

It ends with over a mile of trail that descends down along a flowing stream. Eric loves trails where he can hear the water and the trail is wide and clear of brush. This was one of the few trails in Cape Breton that had a tall forest, which we both appreciated.

Then it all goes up in flames

Continue reading Cape Breton beyond the Trails for part 2 of this trip, when nothing happens according to plan and yet everything works out for the best.

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Canada, Slow travel, Travel Diary

PEI Notes from an Anne of Green Gables Fangirl

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woman dressed like Anne of Green Gables in PEI

Believe it or not, Anne of Green Gables is not what brought us to Prince Edward Island, even though she is my favorite book character and I often forget that Lucy Maud Montgomery’s creation isn’t actually real. Eric and I hadn’t planned to visit PEI, it was added at the last minute to our road trip to Newfoundland. I arrived with little knowledge of this island, other than it being the epicenter of all things Green Gables and the fact that it has a new long-distance walking path that I wanted to explore.

red dirt and lighthouse on PEI

In terms of scenery, Prince Edward Island is famous for its red dirt and beaches. Most of the island is covered in potato fields, broken up by ponds, creeks and small groves of trees. Influencers seeking epic photos to gain Instagram followers do not flock here. Just like the character that everyone comes here to see, this is a place of understated beauty where the people and stories are the highlight and magic can be found for those who have the imagination to see it.

man walking a barren path on PEI

“I believe the nicest and sweetest days are not those on which anything very splendid or wonderful or exciting happens but just those that bring simple little pleasures, following one another softly, like pearls slipping off a string.” ~ Anne Shirley of Green Gables

We arrived on PEI after 7 days of driving from Louisiana, which is important for understanding why my first thought when we crossed the Confederation Bridge was “we drove 2,700 miles for potato fields and churches?” I confess to being a scenery snob that first day, but my outlook improved the next day when we visited the home of my bosom friend (and yes, I know she’s not real).

carriage and house at Anne of Green Gables Heritage Center PEI

When I say I am an Anne of Green Gables fangirl it’s not an exaggeration. Her story has been a part of me since I first learned how to read. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve read the books or watched the original movies. I cry every time Matthew dies – hell, I’m getting choked up just writing about it! I even threw Anne a birthday party when I worked at the Victoria Public Library. So yes, I may have embarrassed Eric when we arrived at the Anne of Green Gables Heritage Center and I sprinted past the park attendant with a stupid grin on my face. I’m sure the workers were thinking “God help us, here comes another fangirl.”

Visiting the heritage site was the fulfillment of a childhood dream and also a bittersweet reminder that reality is rarely in sync with what our imaginations can conjure. The house and museum display are excellent and absolutely worth visiting.

fallen trees on Lover's Lane trail in PEI

The grounds of the heritage site are another story. I wanted to cry when we walked through Montgomery’s Lovers Lane. I expected tree damage from Hurricane Fiona which ripped through PEI last year, but I didn’t realize just how extensive that damage would be. I was also disappointed by the golf course which sits directly on both sides of the wooded acreage. As Anne once said “I cannot imagine my red hair away,” that is how I felt walking through the Haunted Woods while trying to imagine away the golf carts zipping by.

Before arriving, I already knew I was going to write about PEI through the lens of our own personal experience with hurricanes. I was relieved to see that Charlottetown’s historic buildings and the island’s infrastructure looked fine but the loss of their beautiful trees hits close to home for us. Seeing the extent of tree damage shifted some of the trails I had planned to walk. Instead we focused on what PEI is famous for – its extensive coastline and local cuisine.

woman walking beach at Cavendish Dunes in PEI National Park

There are perks to coming during the off season like we did. Besides no crowds, it’s free to get into the parks so we were able to walk and drive through Prince Edward Island’s National Park without having to pay. They had just put the stairs out to access the beach a few days before we arrived in mid-May so our timing was perfect.

We parked at Cavendish Destination Center, stopped at the Oceanview Lookoff and walked the Gulf Shore Way West path until MacKenzies Brook then turned around for a total of 5 miles. I had forgotten how much it hurts my joints to walk on hard pavement and I hated that the path followed a road the entire time. But if I view that walk through Anne’s eyes, it was a delightful Spring experience with its muted palette full of yellow dandelions and dried brush with tiny buds just waiting to burst open with color.

We also walked the Greenwich Dunes section of PEI National Park, which has the most popular hiking trail on PEI. Where else can you walk on a floating boardwalk over a marsh overlooking giant dunes with an ocean on the other side? We learned some local history by walking the Tlaqatik Trail on St. Peter’s Bay, where my French Acadian ancestors fished for cod in the 1700s and the Mi’kmaq people harvested clams long before that.

The downside of going in off-season is that several restaurants are closed, as we discovered when we drove to the eastern shoreline and walked the beaches at Basin Head Provincial Park and Black Pond Bird Sanctuary. We drove through several towns that day looking for food and finally struck gold in Georgetown, where we indulged in fresh out-of-the-oven turkey pot pies and butter tarts from Maroon Pig. The butter tarts were made with raisins, which is important to note because apparently there’s a Canadian war between those who prefer nut tarts versus raisin tarts. All I know is that tart was heavy enough to sink a person to the bottom of the bay and put you in a coma for weeks – and it was absolutely delicious!

chef in his kitchen at The Table Culinary Studio in PEI

The highlight of our visit to Prince Edward Island was actually food related. Eric cooked most of the trip (which of course was no sacrifice because the man creates magic in any kitchen), but we splurged one evening with a chef’s dinner at The Table Culinary Studio in New London. Our table was directly next to the open concept kitchen, from which the owner and executive chef enticed us with descriptions of each item throughout the 7-course dinner. The restaurant is in an old church which has been beautifully restored and seats a small intimate group. The food is entirely sourced from local Canadian-only products and the menu is never repeated from week to week – that’s 150 unique dishes every season! And when I say locally sourced, I mean it in the strictest sense. We’re talking rhubarb juice instead of lemon juice, miso made from peas instead of soy beans, watercress and cattails freshly foraged from a pond.

My favorite moment of the evening was hearing Chef Hunter describe his excitement when discovering “cute little cabbages” at the local farmers market. I told him he was the Bob Ross of vegetables. His passion for produce and fresh inventive ingredients is infectious and I will smile fondly in memory of him every time I walk through a produce aisle. I will also remember the warmth and hospitality we received at The Table. Earlier I had asked someone if Chef Alex sold his sourdough bread at the farmers market and they said he only made it in-house for the restaurant. As we were leaving that evening, the bread maker himself handed us a loaf and wished us safe travels. I hugged him and we left that sacred restaurant glowing with happy memories. Anne of Green Gables would no doubt consider Proprietor Derrick Hoare and his team at The Table to be kindred spirits. 

man standing in front of COWS Creamery PEI with ice cream cone in hand

Prince Edward Island is the kind of place that grows on you slowly. The longer you’re here the more its beauty unfolds. We shopped at the farmer’s market and Eric cooked fiddleheads for the first time. We walked all over Charlottetown and the waterfront on Victoria Day, enjoying the crisp cool air and springtime colors just beginning to pop. We bought pink lemonade from a girl who was ecstatically telling her dad that a stranger just before us had given her a hundred dollar bill. We ate sushi burritos at Founder’s Food Hall and ice cream waffle cones from COWS. Standing in a field of dandelions and watching everyone enjoy the simple pleasures of a sunny day, I finally understood what Montgomery was trying to tell us through her writing…

“There is so much in the world for us all if we only have the eyes to see it, and the heart to love it, and the hand to gather it to ourselves–so much in men and women, so much in art and literature, so much everywhere in which to delight, and for which to be thankful.” ~ Lucy Maud Montgomery

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