I recently read The Soul of Place: a Creative Writing Workbook by Linda Lappin, and it got me thinking about a concept I’ve never considered. Travel writers often talk about how certain places hold power for them. They recognize that places have a character or personality, and some places have characteristics that make them “power places.” Others talk about the “genius loci” which refers to the protective spirit of a place. Whatever you want to call it, I think it safe to assume that it’s easy for us to recognize whether or not a place “speaks” to us, but how often do we ask ourselves “why?”
The concept of “power places” or “soul places” has been written about by others, and this is my favorite explanation of it:
“Many times our power places are locations we love. They bring us a feeling of home even though we may have never actually lived there. These places are powerful because they hold space for us to relax and blossom into who we truly are.” ~Gigi Young, Moonbird
I love this concept. It resonates deep within me, as there have been places that we’ve visited where I felt transcended and others where, despite their beauty, I felt depleted. I thought I’d share my creative writing exercise with you, in case you want to ponder your own “power places.”
California redwoods near Trinidad
Where are my power places?
These are the places where I felt fully alive, empowered, completely at peace, and able to freely be myself. Simply put, I didn’t want to leave.
Faroe Islands
Trinidad, California
Salzburg, Austria & countryside
Dingle Peninsula, Ireland
Oregon Coast
San Juan Islands, Orcas Island
What do they have in common?
Once I start writing them down, a pattern begins to emerge. There are definite characteristics they all share.
With the exception of Austria, they are all coastal. And not just any kind of coastal, they are specifically rocky coastlines with cold water and rugged or remote landscapes. And while they don’t all have trees, they do have very green landscapes.
Again with the exception of Salzburg, they are all remote locations. I felt removed from the world at all of these. Even in Salzburg, I felt removed in the sense that we had stepped back in time.
They are remote but not wilderness. That’s key, because I don’t feel that same sense of safety when I’m deep in the backwoods.
The residents all seem to have a strong tie to the land and deep respect for the environment.
There is a strong sense of community; people know their neighbors.
The general pace of life is slow and unrushed but still productive. They have a good balance of work and play.
The people we met were always happy and friendly. While not as openly warm as we’re used to in Louisiana, we felt an openness to outsiders of different beliefs and customs. Even Faroe, which is the least diverse place we’ve ever been, felt genuinely welcoming. I must note, however, that I’m white and that may have made a difference. I don’t know how someone who looks different would be treated in places like Faroe Islands or Austria, but I hope it would be with the same warmth.
The majority of the residents also seem to live simple, minimalist lifestyles. Even on the Oregon coast, where you’ll see large oceanfront homes, they are built into the landscape in a way that pays tribute to the land. They aren’t ostentatious in any way.
They all have crisp sea or mountain air. No oppressive humidity, although it can get hot in some of these places.
With the exception of Austria, these places are often windy and foggy. I love the juxtaposition of storms and the calm of twilight, so it makes sense that places with muted light and temperamental weather would appeal to me.
None of them are flat. They all have some form of hills or mountains.
What are my non-power places?
While all of these are beautiful, these places didn’t leave me with the same sense of awe or completion. I have fond memories of them and took gorgeous photos, but the longer I stayed the more I felt depleted or anonymous. I was happy to visit, but I can’t see myself living there.
Sifnos, Greece was SUPER relaxing but it was also dry and lacked lush green foliage.
Any large city, where I feel crowded or surrounded by concrete, makes the list. There are cities I love to visit, like Boston or San Francisco, but I never want to stay for long.
I hate to even admit this out loud, but Arkansas, Oklahoma and Texas make this list. We visit these states because they’re close and offer good hiking, but my soul shrivels up quickly if we stay too long. Part of the reason is that I don’t feel like I fit in culturally, but it’s also a sense of being surrounded by land. I keep searching for the ocean and in Texas I feel overly exposed because of all that open space.
Again, I hate to admit this, but pretty much the entire US East Coast is a soul-sucker for me. With the exception of Maine, I’ve always felt crowded and rushed in the northeast coastal communities. Or I’ve been disappointed at the strips of over-developed condos or overly-pretentious beach communities. Maybe it’s just that the beaches are too flat. These are my personal projections, based on life experiences, so please don’t be offended if you love the East Coast. I can only be honest with myself, and who knows, maybe someday I’ll discover an east coast town that suits me.
Why does this even matter?
I teach a DIY Travel class where we talk about our travel personalities. I believe that great travel experiences come from knowing what makes you happy. Understanding on a deeper level what fills your soul with joy and inspiration and why is what sets a life-changing trip apart from a simple vacation. Like I say in the class, my time and money are limited, so I want to ensure that every trip I take is the most amazing experience possible. From this exercise, I’ve gleaned some very useful knowledge not just about my travel tastes but about myself. Places that set my soul afire are remote and temperamental, where I feel small and insignificant in a good way, where I should feel threatened by mother nature but instead feel sheltered. Hmmm…interesting correlation with my literary love interests. Mr. Rochester ring a bell? 😉
There are some good things that came out of 2020, and one of those was our discovery of the Mississippi coast. Having grown up in Louisiana, I’ll confess to having some pretty snobby opinions about our neighbor. Mississippi has always been the state we pass through to get to the Alabama or Florida beaches. But in 2020, when Eric and I were desperate to get away and needed something close, we booked an AirBnB in Long Beach and FELL IN LOVE. We loved it so much we went back again in 2020 and stayed in Gulfport for 4th of July. We repeated that same holiday trip in 2021. Yes, the water is brown like it is in Louisiana, but here’s why we love the Mississippi coast…
For starters, Gulfport is only a 4-hr drive from Lake Charles (assuming no traffic). Second, the beach that stretches from Pass Christian to Gulfport is one continuous offering of clean white sand with just enough smattering of dunes to make it interesting. Unless you’re near a condo or hotel, you’ll have the beach practically to yourself, and they all offer free parking, good public restrooms, and wide boardwalks. Third, walking or riding bikes through Pass Christian or Ocean Springs is a real treat. The streets are canopied with moss covered oaks and the homes are beautiful. Eric and I are more beach walkers than swimmers, so a quiet beach with great walking paths is more important to us than the quality of the water.
Have I enticed you yet? If so, here are my suggestions for a quick trip to the Mississippi coast…
WHERE TO STAY
Look for rentals on AirBnB or VRBO away from hotels and casinos. Anywhere between Pass Christian and the west side of Gulfport is a safe bet for quiet beaches. When looking at Gulfport try to avoid anything east of the Visitor’s Center, as it starts to get touristy past that point and the beach isn’t as nice. Ocean Springs is our favorite town on the Gulf and you absolutely MUST visit it even if you don’t stay there. We don’t like the beach in Ocean Springs because it’s too small and crowded, but we love the artistic hippie vibe of this town.
Gulfport is our top choice for 4th of July because they do a big fireworks display on the beach. We sit on the east side of Gulfport so we see Biloxi’s fireworks as well. Some of the best displays, however, come from the locals on the beach who really know what they’re doing.
locals on the beach display
Gulfport’s city display
If you’re going for the fireworks, rent something close enough to walk to the beach. It’s easy to park at these beaches, but you have to arrive early if you’re going for the fireworks and it’s a traffic nightmare when you leave.
WHERE TO EAT
Ocean Springs is the sweet spot for foodies, but if you like casual pizza joints or pub food then you can find something in any of the coastal towns. Here are our favorites:
Ocean Springs
You’ll know you’ve reached Tatonut Donut Shop when you see the long line of people wrapped around the block. I still haven’t had one yet because I’m not willing to wait in line for an hour, but next trip we’re waking up early and getting there when they open. These iconic donuts, made from potato flour, have been a family business since 1960. For a great history and photos of Tatonut, click HERE — you’ll understand why people wait in line after reading it.
The Greenhouse on Porter is exactly what it says — a greenhouse. Open for breakfast or lunch, this quirky space takes biscuits to a whole new level, plus they have pimiento cheese sandwiches which makes me a fan for life. If you go on the weekend, consider takeout because they’re popular and there’s really no place to wait.
Lunch on our balcony
Vestige is our choice for dinner. We love that vegetables get as much attention as the proteins and that they menu changes according to what’s locally available. If kumquat kosho paste and chantenay carrots gets you excited, this is your kind of place.
There are several great options for coffee, but we like The District Coffee Company. It has a great cozy beach vibe and good food options.
For a culinary experience, look at what Food Booze Hiccups is offering. They teach classes and host outdoor dining events in town and on the beach. We’ve tried to go but their events were always sold out. This is one to plan way ahead of time and book early.
The Saturday farmer’s market is small but the vendors are excellent. When we went in July, Fungi Bob and his daughter were selling lions mane mushrooms and homegrown root beer mixes. We were lucky enough to buy fresh pasta and bolognese sauce from Chef Danie, who when not running restaurants or selling at the fresh markets also teaches cooking classes. Both Bob and Danie were wonderful to visit with and full of advice for Eric.
OS Fresh Market buys
Health food markets don’t normally make the “where to eat” lists, but I must mention Five Seasons Whole Foods Market because they have such a good selection of hard-to-find items and the owner, Jan Walker, was such a delight to meet. Her face lit up when we told her she carried all the items we like and she filled our ears with her life story and passion for healthy foods. I want to return with my parents so they can meet Jan and reminisce about being “whole foods oriented” before it was trendy.
Gulfport
C.A. Sarducci’s Pizzeria has a good atmosphere and is located in downtown Gulfport next to Fishbone Alley, which is simply a mural covered alley connecting a bunch of fun restaurants and bars. This is a fun place for those who like to socialize. If you prefer brick oven pizza, Tony’s Brick Oven Pizzeria is only 3 blocks away.
Boozer’s Brew & a Cafe Too is a cozy place for breakfast or lunch in Gulfport. They have good salads and protein shakes for those trying to eat healthy.
Good Karma Cafe is another good choice for healthy eaters. This Gulfport cafe defines themselves as vegan cuisine with Indian/Malaysian fusion and their menu changes according to what’s in season.
WHAT TO DO
Besides long walks on the beach or bike riding through town, these are the “to do” items on our list for future trips:
Speaking of museums, the Maritime & Seafood Industry Museum in Biloxi is a fun place and it’s only a $10 admission, as opposed to the Mississippi Aquarium in Gulfport which looks really cool but I’m not sure the $30 admission is worth it.
If I was doing a girls trip, I would add shopping in Ocean Springs. The boutique shops on Washington Avenue are excellent. For consignment shopping, try Back on the Rack or Anna’s Closet in Gulfport. And of course, there must be a bookstore stop and that would be Southern Bound Book Shop in Biloxi.
So there you have it, plenty of reasons to visit the Mississippi coast, especially if you prefer quiet beaches with southern architectural charm.
