Slow travel, Travel Diary, United States

Blueberry Hill, the Vermont Inn with a Living Heartbeat

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Blueberry Hill Inn near Goshen Vermont

As I write my thoughts about our recent trip to Blueberry Hill Inn in Goshen, Vermont, I am overwhelmed with a profound sense of having experienced something rare. Something that is incredibly difficult to put into words, but I’ll try.

What makes Blueberry Hill Inn special

The building has a living heartbeat.

This is a direct quote from Eric, after a lengthy conversation on what makes Blueberry Hill Inn so special. And he’s absolutely right, the building and grounds feel alive, imbued with their own character and stories. Our list of “beautiful landscape, old world charm, friendly people, delicious food, long history” — all of these apply but they also apply to other places we’ve stayed in the past. But this place is different, and to understand why, I need to start with the original dreamers.

“When two people have such a love, have such a desire to make something work, it works.” Excerpt from Nothing Whatever To Do (1956) by Elsie and John Masterton, original innkeepers of Blueberry Hill Inn.

Blueberry Hill Inn has a rich history dating back to 1813 when the original house was built. Over the years, it has undergone several additions, including hundreds of blueberry bushes, miles of trails through lush forest and an outdoor center that oversees the all-season activities that Blueberry Hill Inn has to offer. We enjoyed learning about the original innkeepers, Elsie and John Masterton, by reading Elsie’s book which kept us laughing and gave us a good sense of why this place is so different from other inns.

It’s because it was created with love, dreams for a better life, and lots of hard work and compromise.

man reading book at Blueberry Hill Inn Vermont

We loved Elsie’s book so much, we ordered a copy as soon as we got home. It tells the story of an attorney and his wife who quit their successful careers in New York to purchase a 1,000 acre wooded property in Vermont, with dreams of turning their mountain into a ski resort. Elsie’s love for her dreamer husband and determination to learn how to cook and adapt to a simple country life while opening her home to strangers reminds me so much of my Mom and the way I grew up.

mountains at Blueberry Hill Inn Vermont
this mountain becomes a backcountry skiing and snowshoeing paradise in the winter

“Our guests were the kind of people who came for the reason that there was nothing whatever to do, they spent the busiest kind of a day; it was over before they knew it, what with the talk and the beauty and the companionship of others just like them.” ~ Elsie

gardens and outdoor lounging at Blueberry Hill Inn
the outdoor pizza oven, where summer gatherings bring people together

Upon arriving at Blueberry Hill Inn, we were greeted with fresh flowers in our room, handpicked from the gardens and wild patches surrounding the inn. The sunroom served as the heart of the inn, where Eric perused Elsie’s book and the inn’s cookbook collection and I found inspiration for my writing. It was here, amidst the sunroom’s cozy ambiance, that we had some of the most meaningful conversations with Shari and her charismatic team.

sunroom at Blueberry Hill Inn Vermont

Shari is a treasure trove of stories about the inn’s history and her deep-rooted connection to it. We loved hearing her stories about the inn, how she began working there in the 80s and how entwined her life became with the inn to the point where she is now the owner. Shari felt like a big sister, showing interest in what I’m trying to achieve with Trips to Walkabout and offering advice and encouragement. She’s a force of nature, determination and hard work written all over her face, along with plenty of laugh lines showing a life well-lived. She talked candidly with us about the challenges and joys of running an inn with such a large property. I am in awe of this woman.

side view of Blueberry Hill Inn Vermont

The team at the inn, including Olivia, Allison, Nate, and Shari’s shadow, the large lovable Remi, made us feel like we were part of a big family. We had the pleasure of hearing Olivia’s inspiring views on sustainable food practices and hospitality, leaving us with hope for the future of tourism. And we most certainly enjoyed the mouthwatering comfort foods created by Nate and Allison. I had to pull Eric away from the kitchen so they could get their work done, he could have happily discussed food with them all day. My favorite was their charcuterie board and fresh nectarine salad, lovingly prepared for us on a day when the kitchen was closed.

salad and charcuterie at Blueberry Hill Inn

Blueberry Hill Inn attracts the kind of people who come to enjoy the simple joys of life and genuine companionship.

From the moment we arrived, a sense of familiarity and casual comfort embraced us. Everything about this place says “welcome, come as you are, leave your worries and pretensions behind.” I can see why Blueberry Hill has such a loyal following, why couples like Ed and Ellen return 17 times. In a world that so often seems fake and cold, this place is the exact opposite. Much like our stay with Kim in Fleur de Lys, Shari and her team reminded us how powerful this simple truth can be:

When you open your heart to strangers and greet them with a desire to listen and learn, you will almost always be rewarded with the pure joy of witnessing someone as they truly are. This is how meaningful connections are made. This is how we experience the best part of being human.

pond at Blueberry Hill Inn Vermont

During our stay, Eric surprised me by fully embracing the charms of Vermont’s countryside. He willingly walked into the valley of death so that I could hike the trails of Blueberry Hill. Witnessing him pause to admire water lilies by the pond, wildflowers that he usually avoids because they mean stinging insects, brought a smile to my face. He was no more immune to the magic than I was.

man with mosquito net hiking trails at Blueberry Hill Inn
Epi pen in pocket, Eric walks the trails at Blueberry Hill Inn

“It was our home. It was their home. We were sharers of the same thing, of the same aura of simplicity.” ~ Elsie

As we reluctantly prepared to leave Blueberry Hill Inn, we took the back roads, savoring every moment and every breathtaking view. Vermont had woven its spell on us and we found ourselves daydreaming about the possibility of living here. Our stay at Blueberry Hill was an unforgettable experience, reminding us of the power of genuine human connections and the beauty of embracing simplicity. It’s not just an inn; it’s a sanctuary that welcomes you with open arms, urging you to be your authentic self, stripped bare of the modern world’s burdens and distractions.

The spirit of Elsie and John Masterton is still alive at this inn, and it has many more stories yet to tell.

Our stay at Blueberry Hill Inn was part of a 50-day Road Trip to Canada.

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Canada, Slow travel, Travel Diary, United States

Road Trip to Canada

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Subaru Outback at sunset parked at a Hipcamp in New York

Our 50-day road trip to Canada has come to an end. This was the longest trip Eric and I have taken so far and we were curious to see how we’d feel about long term travel. I was also testing my body to see how long days of sustained travel would affect me and whether or not I’d experience rheumatoid arthritis flare-ups.

Conclusion? We LOVE long term travel! It’s officially a lifestyle for us and while it comes with its challenges, the rewards far outweigh any discomforts or risks.

woman sitting under tree in Bar Harbor Maine

I’ve been sharing our stories about each Canadian destination during this trip, including Prince Edward Island and Cape Breton, and later this month I’ll share our Newfoundland tales. For this post, I’d like to try something different and share my journal entries during the road trip to and from Canada. This will give you a glimpse into how we managed such a long trip on a budget, how we incorporated daily walks into the driving days and how we chose private room lodging to create a more enriching experience.

Day 1: Louisiana to Alabama

Loading up our Subaru for a long journey is easy when you’ve got an engineer and librarian on board. Everything we need for 50 days on the road, including our  mattresses for car camping and a Ninja blender so we can attempt to eat as healthy as possible. Eric retrofitted the trunk so we can fit a full-size spare tire (good idea because we’ll need it before we reach Canada).

packing for road trip to Canada

Driving through Concordia and Tensas parishes, crops for miles and some of the prettiest countryside we’ve seen in our home state. The little Mississippi Delta town of Ferriday is special. It’s falling apart and looks forgotten but some of the old homes are still quite beautiful. We stop at Simmons-Wright General Store in Kewanee, where you can get a cup of coffee for 79 cents, homemade sweet tea with a burger and fries, a big hug and a kiss on the cheek, some 8-tracks and old romance novels. Think Ollivander’s Wand Shop, Mississippi style.

Simmons-Wright General Store in Kewanee MS

We car camp in Alabama our first night at a Hipcamp outside of Birmingham. Feeling confident about this car camping thing until I go to shower. There are silos with showers and toilets and I have everything I need…except a towel. Nix the shower and just wash my face. With damp clumps of toilet paper sticking to my face, I crawl onto our comfy mattress and sleep in the same clothes I wore today, which smell like smoke because we ate at a barbecue joint for dinner. Something wakes us up around 2:00 a.m. that makes our car rock, not sure if it’s a large cat or a bear. No wind, 80°F and high humidity. I go to bed sticky with swollen joints, thinking this car camping may not be a repeat experience.

Day 2: Alabama to West Virginia

Wake up to a soft, foggy sunrise and surprisingly feel well rested (but still grimy). Pass through the adorable town of Collinsville which is bustling with some big market event. Stop in Farragut just outside of Knoxville for a walking break. Farragut has two parks with great walking trails. We choose the park next to the library and walk a mile under shady trees.

walking trail in Farragut Park

Our travel this year is planned to gently take us outside of our comfort zone in terms of minimalism and control. I can already feel this trip stripping away my need to cling to what society says we should have. After one night of hip camping and what I must confess was not the most pleasant experience, we arrive at one of the quirkiest Airbnbs we’ve ever stayed at. It is a whimsical fairy tale cottage that looks to be made out of everything repurposed. Nothing matches, nothing is straight or right angled, door knobs fall off, the kitchen chairs fall apart if you’re not gentle. Fresh zucchini bread and homemade dandelion jam are waiting for us and in this moment we are both ridiculously happy. The bed must be from the 18th century because it is solid as a rock and seems in tune with Victorian sensibilities. I don’t imagine baby-making to be very enjoyable in this bed. But it’s clean and the linens are soft and warm. I can see a pretty pond with handmade boats and the West Virginia mountains all around. Our sound machine for the evening is the loud steady droning of bullfrogs. Sure, we could have stayed in a hotel tonight with a deluxe mattress and modern appliances, but that would not have fed my imagination or connected me with nature as this place has.

Day 3: West Virginia to New York

Dogwoods and rhododendron are in full bloom as we drive through West Virginia. I gawk at the impressive homes and gorgeous landscapes near Grandview and begin collecting roadside names to use for future writing. My favorites are: Muddlety, Puddy Run and Bullfeathers (my new curse word of choice). We stop at New River Gorge National Park to walk and change a tire. This park is stunning and because it’s so new to the national park system it’s still considered a hidden gem.

Can now say I’ve experienced the kitschiness of Punxsutawney, Pennsylvania. We have a quiet dinner at Punxy Phil’s which has friendly service and average food. Take the requisite photos of various groundhog statues. Drive past the Kane Family Drive-in Theater which catches our eye with its 1950s spaceship entrance. Today we’ve learned that Pennsylvanians are fanatics about their drive-ins. Every town we pass has a drive-in diner or ice cream hut that’s packed to the brim.

Punxsutawney groundhog statue

Sometimes I question our lodging choices. Like the cottage rental next to a porn shop in Kauai, this evening’s Hipcamp is giving me similar vibes as we pass eight marijuana dispensaries on the way to a farm in New York. Per instructions, we park our car at the top of a hill just behind the barn. I trek my way through questionable mud to the bathroom which is connected to the barn. It’s a small space with compost toilet and shower that reminds me of a college dorm, but it’s clean and I now have a towel so my grooming routine is much improved! The farm owners have created a simple space with thoughtful touches. There’s an honesty jar next to homemade soaps, fresh produce and jams, eggs, frozen meat and activity books for kids.

The temperature drops to 35°F and I’m glad. I may not want to get out of the car to pee in the morning but at least my joints won’t swell like they did in Alabama. The only thing that disrupts our sleep is the Great Pyrenees which circles our car and barks every hour. We can hear him covering the entire perimeter of the farm in a perfect pattern that he repeats throughout the night. In this way we become a part of the farm’s cycle. We fall asleep and wake to a beautiful pink sunrise over the New York countryside.

Subaru Outback parked at Hipcamp with sunset in background

Day 4: New York to New Hampshire

An early start this morning means we see the Amish farmers out in their buggies and the women watering their gardens. Driving through the Allegheny countryside, I’m surprised to see that the trees still have a variety of color in May. Farm stands everywhere selling firewood, maple syrup, eggs and bundles of pansies. We stop to walk along the lake at Watkins Glen County Park, where we watch Canadian geese herding their young chicks.

Ithaca is one big traffic jam so we pass through without stopping, but the county roads from Ithaca to Cooperstown are calm and rotate between farmland and state protected forests. There are so many white dandelions flying around that it gives the impression of snowfall. I’m sad to see so many beautiful old homes in complete disrepair along this drive. It’s a stark reminder that so much of rural America is slowly being lost to rot and neglect.

dandelion field in New York

We stop in Cooperstown to eat a picnic lunch on Lake Otsego and sit in the seats at Doubleday Field. I knew Cooperstown was a baseball town, but no one ever mentioned the beautiful historic homes and the lake.

In the evening, we dine on burgers while we watch kids explore a small creek behind Wahoo’s Eatery in Wilmington, Vermont. This place is definitely worth including in an itinerary, both for its excellent food and fun outdoor vibe. As we approach Concord, we see a search and rescue party and find out later that a hiker got lost in the mountains. Our Airbnb hostess said it happens quite often.

Day 5: New Hampshire to Maine

I am in love with Concord, New Hampshire. The town and surrounding neighborhoods are postcard pretty and I can see why our Airbnb owner decided to move here. We visit with her over coffee and she earns my respect when she says “there are two kinds of winter people, those that complain about the weather and those that learn to love winter sports.” She’s a school librarian who has traveled extensively across the world. We especially love her stories about meeting her husband at an airport and why they chose to raise their children abroad.

Cherry blossoms and dogwood trees are in full bloom as we head into Freeport, Maine. Home of L.L. Bean, Freeport is a great place to visit if you love shopping and historic buildings. We’re here for bread from When Pigs Fly Bakery. Maybe we could come back, they’re hiring part-time seasonal bakers. Bread in hand, now we need coffee and much to our delight we find a great pour-over at Green Tree Coffee and Tea, where we chat with the owner about his days living in New Orleans.

Green Tree Coffee and Tea in Maine

Acadia National Park is closed for the season, which is fine by us because it means we can walk Bar Harbor’s Shore Path without crowds, sharing space with like-minded travelers who appreciate this seaside town during the off-season.

The rugged side of Maine quickly reveals itself as we drive to Bangor, where we spend a night in a fully equipped VRBO. Ahhh, the luxury of a full kitchen, private bath and laundry.

Day 6: Maine to Prince Edward Island

Our morning drive begins with a classic Maine visual. A scraggly haired man in mud-covered Carhartt boots, wearing a camo kilt while working on his campervan at a gas station that looks like it closed in the 1950s. Nothing but wilderness and cannabis shops until we reach the Canadian border. Short trees, dense thicket and a few small meandering rivers. Really not much to see for travelers and I can see why this part of Maine is appealing to hermits and anyone wanting to escape society.

We cross the border in Calais and it only takes six minutes. Our border guard once lived in Newfoundland and he’s excited that it’s our final destination. St. Andrews, New Brunswick, is a precious seaside town with its colorful houses and perfectly preserved historic shops and lighthouse. Deer are roaming around the visitor’s center and it’s a sunny 52°F day so people are outside sunbathing along Passamaquoddy Bay.

Our entertainment today is trying to guess what the Canadian road signs mean. Symbols that we’ve come across so far: hand holding a pottery vase (artisans), bed and an egg (bed and breakfast), spinning loom (antiques), people standing in a barn waving (agritours), man standing on a ledge hanging from a tree (still clueless about this one). Lunch is fried clams and seafood chowder at New Brunswick’s best road stop, Ossie’s Lunch. They have clean bathrooms and enough picnic tables to host some serious parties. Just make sure to bring cash because they don’t accept cards.

Ossie's Fried Clams in New Brunswick

Today’s drive is the most boring of our trip so far. It’s a long drive to Prince Edward Island, where we’re staying in Charlottetown for the week. We’re in a basement apartment with a noisy toddler above but how wonderful it feels to be settled in one place with a kitchen!

Days 7-12: Prince Edward Island

See PEI Notes from an Anne of Green Gables Fangirl.

woman dressed like Anne of Green Gables in PEI

Days 13-23: Cape Breton

See Trails and Tales of Cape Breton and Cape Breton beyond the Trails.

woman rug hooking in cheticamp cape breton

Stay tuned for the rest of our 50-day trip to Canada, including our time in Newfoundland and the wonderful people we meet on our journey home.

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Hiking, Slow travel, Travel Diary, United States

A Louisiana Woman’s Impressions of Kauai

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woman blowing kisses on kauai coastline

This is the second time on a trip that a car-share driver drops us off at our lodging and asks “do you really want me to drop you off here?” The first time was in Athens and I’ll admit, that apartment was sketchy. But there is nothing wrong with this place other than the fact that our parking lot shares space with the only porn store in Kauai.

Maybe it’s karma for having stolen someone else’s ride. Sorry James and Camilla, we didn’t intentionally steal your driver. It was just a comedy of errors due partly to jet lag brain and the fact that Eric apparently left his name (and brain) back on the mainland.

sign saying caution falling coconuts

Just past the Hush Boutique and Crossfit gym (gotta admit the two extracurricular activities share mutual benefits), is a hidden oasis. Our stay at the Kapaa Garden Apartments looks promising after all. It’s a Zen garden tucked behind a shopping center with views of Mt. Nounou and cow pasture in the backyard. From our screened lanai we enjoy a constant symphony of wind moving through coconut trees and the multitude of animals sounds (roosters and baby chicks, cats, birds, cows and the humans working diligently to maintain this beautiful place). As the sun sets, soft notes of jazz and slide key are added to this Hawaiin orchestra as live music drifts from downtown Kapa’a.

woman kissing man in front of na pali coast kauai

This is Eric and I’s first visit to Hawaii. While Kauai has been on my radar because of its famous hiking trails and verdant scenery, tropical islands aren’t usually what we gravitate towards. We hate hiking in hot humid weather. Eric is allergic to everything that stings and has to bathe in sunscreen and my joints swell up like marshmallows. Knowing this, I approach the trip with an open itinerary and self-permission to just go with the flow.

Lucky for us, the first two days call for sunny skies so we undertake our hiking first. Nothing challenging the first day, just a coastal walk along the Mahaulepu Heritage Trail near Poipu. I love any walk with ocean views and this one is exceptional. There are no trail markings and lots of alternate trails and once we figure this out it becomes a fun wandering ramble. The trail is only 2 miles (4mi out and back) but it packs a lot of interest in that short distance. Volcanic rock, eroding cliffs, dense jungle, tree tunnels, wide open vistas, vibrant flowers growing in bright red clay, chickens and sea turtles, and a golf course with Jurassic Park mountains in the background – all in one trail!

Shipwreck Beach

If you hike Mahaulepu, take Poipu Rd all the way down the coast and begin the trail near the cave. This allows you to rest and eat at Shipwreck Beach (which has shade and bathrooms) before turning around. Shipwreck Beach ranks as one of our favorite beaches in Kauai. It’s too dangerous to swim here but it’s the perfect place to lounge beneath a tree and feel like you’re in a secret cove.

waimea canyon viewpoint kauai

Our second hike is a muddy mess but oh the views! We’ve left early (before 7am) to drive up to Waimea Canyon and hike the Pihea Trail and Alakai Swamp to Kilohana Lookout. We stop at every viewpoint along the way because they are all photo-worthy and we know they’ll be full of people by the time we head back. The deep burnt orange of oxidized volcanic soil contrasts with the lush botanicals that have given Kauai its nickname “the Garden Island.”

The Pihea Trail in Koke’e State Park is one of the “easier” trails on Kauai and it’s still a workout. The views from this trail are why we chose it because we can see Waimea Canyon on one side and the Na Pali Coast Wilderness on the other side.

What begins as a wide open table of rock quickly becomes a muddy slog through dense forest and mud canyons. There is much upper body maneuvering, grasping tree limbs and fences to prevent sinking in several feet of mud, and I know I’m going to be sore tomorrow. We continue to trek on but at some point along the swamp trail it just becomes work without a view and the humidity is getting to both of us so we turn around and I feel less guilty when I see other hikers doing the same.

SPAM Musubi from Musubi Truck, perfect beach snack!

By the 3rd morning we’ve immersed ourselves in the daily routines, which begin early in Kauai. The school buses parked next door wake us as they pull out around 6am (if the roosters haven’t already disrupted our slumber). From here on out our daily activities focus on easy beach walks, wildlife watching from our lanai and exploring Hawaiian foods.

Hawaiian shaved ice in kapa'a kauai
Plenty of options for Hawaiian shaved ice in Kapa'a
assortment of kauai fruit including coconut, mangosteen and rollinia

It’s good to know that my success rate of picking fruit is equally as bad in Kauai as it is back home. My Frustrations with Fruit are nothing new and have been recorded for history, but that hasn’t stopped me from trying fresh coconut water. I’m not a fan but if I were stranded on a deserted island and needed liquid, I would learn to love the coconut. Since I’m not Chuck Noland, I’ll stick with a Maui Coconut Porter. 

Not all farmer’s markets are created equal and this truth is clear to us as we explore different markets on the island. The Kapa’a Wednesday market is convenient but it pales in comparison to the Puhi Saturday market. Wow! We arrive 20 min early and wait for the deafening air horn to announce that selling can commence, but it’s worth it for these high quality vendors. Vegetables we’ve never seen before are displayed like artwork, people are lining up for exotic flower bouquets and we’re experiencing the blissful taste of Paulie’s Pineapple Phrosty for the first time.

It’s official, Eric and I do not belong on sunny beaches. While others are praying for sun, we’re secretly happy to have rainy days on the beach. We take our time walking Kalihiwai Beach, where a few cars are parked with people eating their lunches inside, but we’re the only ones braving the elements. We’ve discovered a few beaches are closed or inaccessible so we’re thrilled to find this sacred space. A little further along the north shore we stop at Anini Beach where a small group is having a toddler drum circle. One tike streaks across the beach naked as the day he was born. A woman who looks to be native Hawaiian is fully submerged in the clear water, facing the sun with her eyes closed and moving slowly in a ritualistic manner. A few adventurists are paddle boarding and snorkeling.

The rain is light enough to enjoy scenic drives as well. Kilauea Lighthouse looks beautiful in the rain, which provides us the perfect excuse to stop and enjoy malasadas, coffee and pork taro lau lau at Kilauea Bakery (which has a fabulous little book sale that supports the local school). Their molasses rye bread also makes delicious sandwiches!

horses in a field at Huleia National Wildlife Refuge
horses on a backroad in Huleia National Wildlife Refuge

We’ve come to Kauai to experience it through the eyes of people who live here, rather than isolating ourselves in a perfectly crafted bubble designed for tourists. We learn which grocery stores have the best prices, we observe the high cost and poor conditions of housing, and we learn to navigate the daily traffic frustrations of an island bloated with visitors and little to no transportation infrastructure to accommodate them. We watch local police assist an overdose victim at a bus stop. It may be a tropical paradise but the issues here are no different than back on the mainland.

hawaiian rooster on kauai

As we head back to the airport for our return flight, our airport shuttle driver, Daniel, informs us that people of Kauai used to visit Louisiana often. I assume New Orleans was their destination so imagine our shock when he says…

“They went for the cock fighting.” And a history lesson on the ancestral roots of the Hawaiian chicken and my home state’s questionable legalization of fowl sport commences.

view of huleia valley and stream in kauai
Huleia Valley, prettiest drive on Kauai

Just like the Kauai Airport, our overall impression of this island is open, unpretentious and friendly. Our choice to stay in town rather than in a resort pays off as we feel the islanders embrace us as guests rather than tourists. In a place so dependent on tourism, it’s refreshing to see their ancient wisdom is still alive today for those who are open to it.

E hele me ka pu’olo

Always take an offering with you. Make every person place or condition better than you left it. Wherever you go, always take something with you.

For a thorough Hiking and Slow Travel Guide to Kauai, hop on over to Trips to Walkabout. If you just want advice on lodging, read our Budget-Friendly Stays on Kauai.

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