Eric and I recently returned from a 2-month journey through France, exploring Normandy, Brittany, the Loire Valley and Paris. Plus a quick visit to London so I could attend a networking event for tour operators from the Balkans. And it all began with a HelpX invite from an Australian expat family who owns a château in Normandy.
For those unfamiliar with HelpX, I wrote about our first experience with this type of travel during our Clare Island HelpX. The following stories give you a glimpse of what our experience was like with this particular HelpX, but please keep in mind these homestay exchanges are as unique as the individual hosts and guests.
First Impressions of the Château
Our hosts Jane, Peter and Toby greet us on arrival and show us our apartment in the basement of the château. The décor is French rustic, comfortable but cold. There’s a space heater in the bedroom, propped precariously against the wall, and a fireplace in the kitchen. Giant spider webs drape the ceilings. One table lamp lights an entire room. The bed sheets are slightly tattered and stained but smell like sunshine and lavender, perfectly imperfect in that special French way. We have a fridge, oven and tea kettle and a hodgepodge of dishes and cooking utensils. More importantly, Jane has gifted us a bottle of wine, fresh bread and her homemade raspberry jam.
I wasn’t expecting luxury for this HelpX, but I do admit to some serious doubts at this point. Especially when I see the bathroom, which feels like a dungeon as there is only a small light — which I soon find out is motion sensitive when it goes out after a few minutes in the shower, leaving me in complete darkness with a razor in my hand.
My discomforts are temporarily forgotten as Jane invites us to sit by a nice warm fire in their dining room. Anyone who follows Jane Webster on Instagram already knows that the interior of their château is gorgeous. She has a gift for decorating that’s both lavish and comfortable, inviting you to sink into well-loved antiques that look like something has chewed the edges of the cushions, but somehow it looks really good. Her father was an antique dealer, and she has many pieces they brought from Australia, plus what they’ve collected over the years here in France. Everything has a story here and nothing is wasted.
I sit in awe of all this beauty as she serves us an aperitif of cheddar biscuits and our drink of choice. I’m happy to discover she’s a gin and tonic fan. We then sit down to a leisurely dinner—simple fare for Jane, who is a chef and knows her way around Michelin restaurants. It’s a beautiful meal!
Château Life Begins
We almost freeze to death that first night, and I question our choices for traveling this way. Eric, who’s usually not the optimist in this relationship, soothes my fears and reminds me that it’s always difficult our first few days. It takes time for us to adjust from our American comforts, but we always do, and we’re always grateful for the experiences that teach us how little we truly need to be happy. The next morning, Jane saves us from the cold with macarons and coffee. Peter gives us a tour of the outbuildings, potager (kitchen garden) and introduces us to the chickens.
Château Bosgouet's History
The Websters purchased the château in 2004 and have been lovingly restoring it ever since. After staying here for a month, I have a newfound appreciation for how much work goes into maintaining a 50-acre property with a 72-room château. Living here may look luxurious, and it is, but that luxury is only possible because this couple is willing to work hard every day to keep everything running. Even with volunteers helping throughout the year, it’s a formidable job!
The original building burned down in the early 1800s and was reconstructed around 1843 in the Napoleon III style. Like many châteaus, Bosgouet once housed German officers and troops. It also served as a summer camp, evidence of which can be seen in the outbuildings covered in juvenile murals and dismantled playground equipment.
The château welcomes long‑stay guests for immersive experiences and inspired Jane’s design and cookbooks: At My French Table, Château Life, and French House Chic. Find more details at The French Table.
Before Jane leaves for a tour in Spain, she takes us to the market in Bourgtheroulde (yes, it’s a mouthful). It’s small and an excellent introduction to market shopping in France. There are vendors for flowers, oysters, hot food, produce, some sweets, and our favorite—the fromagerie lady! Jane helps us pick a cheese, which is good because otherwise we would have been totally overwhelmed. I’ll have to study cheese before I can try this on my own. Just learning how to order the amount and age of a cheese is intimidating, let alone the different types and how to describe what flavors we prefer. I thought ordering wine would be intimidating in France, but cheese is more challenging! Luckily, Jane has Le Grand Livre des Fromages in her stockpile of cookbooks, so Eric and I commence studying.
A Rough Start
We put in two full days of work in the potager before I get sick with a nasty head cold. Eric covers my slack while I stay mostly in bed. Peter makes an appointment for me with his doctor and gives me a letter translated into French, explaining that I’m a friend from overseas. I’m still not sure what the doctor thinks of that letter, but he laughs when he reads it.
The appointment is efficient—we walk in, show the letter to a woman who points us toward a small waiting room. While we wait, Eric and I marvel at how everyone really does greet each person entering the room with a “bonjour Madame, bonjour Monsieur.” The doctor comes into the waiting room asking for Monsieur Webster, and I smile and say “moi,” and we roll with it. I have my symptoms already translated in Google Translate to show the doctor. I know he speaks English, but he never does so during my appointment. It both impresses and frustrates me that the French refuse to speak English, even when they see how much you’re struggling to communicate. But at the end of the day, I appreciate their stubbornness. It forces me to learn the language and I learn it so much quicker this way.
Eric catches the same head cold just as I’m starting to recover, so we reverse roles—him staying in bed for two days while I work outside. For two weeks our routine is simple: we wake up and work for about four hours outside, usually in the garden or weeding and pruning flower beds. Eric learns how to repair a tractor while I build teepees for tomato plants.
Sometimes we go for an evening stroll and take Toby with us. Toby is a jug—part Jack Russell terrier and pug. She’s our daily entertainment and headache, spending hours digging holes trying to catch an elusive mole. Yes, there are moles here. I feel like I’ve stepped into a page from The Wind in the Willows.
During most days we spend time visiting with Peter, talking about politics or life in general. He’s a great conversationalist and contrarian. The afternoon consists of a late lunch—usually bread and butter, some cold cuts and cheese, and either hot tea or coffee. Our leisure time is spent reading, napping, working on the laptop, and walking the property and farm roads.
Jane isn’t here to cook, and I have no idea what Peter eats when he’s living like a bachelor, so Eric and I are on our own most nights for dinner. Perfectly acceptable—Eric has a kitchen and access to some of the freshest food you’ll find in the world. We eat very well. Every few days Peter surprises us with baguettes, cheese, or fresh salmon. We never know what it will be, so it feels like little Advent gifts leading up to Christmas.
Day Trips from the Château
Eventually we’re both healthy enough to start exploring. Besides quick trips to pick up fresh bread and produce, the first time we actually leave the château for any length of time is to bring Peter to Pont-Audemer for his French driver’s license test. Peter has lived here for years but has always driven with his Australian license. The French are sticklers for road rules, and it’s not easy to pass their test.
Eric and I wander the cobblestone paths, happy to take photos of crumbly old medieval-looking buildings and canals winding through the town. I see a few people who look like visitors, all speaking French. We definitely stand out as English speakers here.
I love that we can sit at a café, surrounded by people who are just going about their everyday life. We’re here on a Wednesday, which means families are out shopping and eating. Here in Normandy, children have a break on Wednesdays and go to school on Saturdays.
A Roommate
The week before we depart the château, we’re joined by a fellow HelpXer named Wen. She’s originally from China and currently studies in Finland. When I ask her what made her choose this HelpX, she tells me it was the cheapest flight and easiest place to reach by train. Wen appears quiet and docile, but I don’t think that’s her natural personality. I often catch a glint of mischief in her eyes, and I’m quite sure I would have enjoyed getting to know her better. She’ll be taking over the care of Peter’s ever-expanding chicken family—God bless her!
One of the Webster daughters also arrives. Millie corrals her father, who has gotten quite comfortable in his bachelor ways as Jane has been traveling. After surprising us with freshly baked hot cross buns, Millie treats everyone to a dinner of Jamaican Jerk chicken. Millie’s ability to welcome strangers into her home is equally as heart-warming as her mother’s.
Market Shopping in Rouen
Our last weekend at the château is Easter, and we get a special treat when Jane takes us market shopping in Rouen. A friend from Australia and Jane’s daughter are with us, so we’ve got a merry little band of shoppers. Eric and I wander a bit on our own, stopping to visit the Rouen Cathedral and take photos of the famous Horloge (clock tower).
Neither is as fascinating as the exterior of the Joan of Arc Church. This odd-looking architectural masterpiece sits beside the Vieux-Marché and looks like a dragon or Viking longship. Some say it looks like Joan of Arc’s helmet. It’s certainly a building you either love or hate, but there’s no ignoring it.
Easter in Normandy
Jane cooks an exquisite Easter lunch, beautifully served in her lavishly decorated but cozy dining room, surrounded by family and friends. Watching this expert hostess is something to behold—she makes the art of hospitality look so easy. Food is provided at just the right time, conversation and wine continuously flow, and we never feel like strangers.
Favorite Memories from a Normandy Château
Looking back through our photos, I realize my favorite memories of Normandy don’t revolve around any particular attraction or activity. It’s the little moments I enjoy the most. Driving the small country roads. Interesting road signs and quirky address plaques created by a local potter. Couples of all ages wandering hand in hand. Fields of neon yellow rapeseed, reminiscent of the yellow brick road from The Wizard of Oz. Trying a new baguette or pastry. Grocery shopping and observing people’s reactions when Eric opens his mouth to speak.
This is slow travel at its best. When the focus of each day isn’t “what will we see” but “let’s see how the day unfolds.” When the highlight isn’t a particular destination, but simply driving through small towns and stopping when something looks interesting. We road trip like this in America, and I’m happy to report it’s just as delightful to do so in France.
Stick around, there’s more to come as I share stories of our Road Trip through Normandy and Brittany.
