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Asia, Hiking, Slow travel, Travel Diary, Walking Holidays

Beyond the Trail: Food and Friendship on the Kumano Kodo

April 3, 2024 6 Comments

woman with bamboo hiking stick walking Kumano Kodo Kiiji

“You will just have to get naked in front of strangers. We can’t go to Japan and not walk Kumano Kodo, which requires us staying in traditional lodging with shared baths. Suck it up, Buttercup.”

Yes, that is a real conversation between Eric and I as we planned our trip to Japan. At this point I had already mistakenly booked a hotel in Osaka that was a love hotel before realizing what I had done (thank you Booking.com for easy cancellations)! Memories of some of the hikes we did in Albania and Montenegro, of which Eric had zero details beforehand, were also still fresh in his mind. Which might explain Eric’s trust issues.

But really, who doesn’t want to experience the joys of a public bathhouse? (please don’t answer that, I don’t need comments that will get me banned online. In fact, I should probably delete this entirely because I’ll most likely get the wrong kind of SEO and visitors. Naked in Birmingham remains one of my most visited blog posts, I am ashamed to admit.)

But back to Kumano Kodo. For those who don’t know what I’m talking about, here’s a quick summary. We’ll have a comprehensive guide on Trips to Walkabout soon.

What is the Kumano Kodo?

The Kumano Kodo is a network of ancient pilgrimage trails in Japan that wind through the mountainous Kii Peninsula, south of Osaka and Kyoto. These routes connect sacred Buddhist and Shinto sites which have beckoned pilgrims since the 9th century, but the belief in this region’s sacredness predates these religions. Here, the mountains are sacred, protected by deities and offering shelter to ancestors.

Why walk the Kumano Kodo?

People have various reasons for walking Kumano Kodo. Some seek the spiritual aspect. Camino de Santiago pilgrims are enticed by the opportunity to earn a dual pilgrimage certificate. For me, it was more curiosity and a chance to experience rural Japan on foot. I was also drawn to the “nature as deity” concept. Which was perfect, because our 6-day Kumano Kodo with Oku Japan was less “religious boot camp” and more “scenic culinary escape with friendly innkeepers.”

Kumano Kodo Day 1: Shimizu-Ura to Kainan

Following a week on our own, exploring Kyoto and neighboring towns, it was nice to begin our itinerary with Oku Japan in which I didn’t have to plan anything. Our first day on Kumano Kodo began with 2 trains to get from Kyoto to Shimizu-Ura, where we began our first walk along the Kiiji route.

I was thankful for good route notes, as finding the beginning of the trail would have been difficult in town. The walk didn’t start pretty and it was a straight climb up, but soon we found ourselves in a quiet forest.

With views overlooking the industrial port town of Kainan.

Eric was fascinated by rusty steel tracks used by local farmers to bring mikan oranges down from the mountain. This region of Wakayama prefecture is well known for their mikans, which are sweet with a slightly tart grapefruit-like flavor. Most delicious orange juice I’ve ever tasted!

We stopped for lunch at Goshono-shiba Hill, where we watched a fellow pilgrim heat his miso soup on a tiny propane burner. Our picnic of onigiri, jerky and cheese sticks (purchased at Kyoto Station that morning) felt like a feast compared to his humble lunch.

After visiting Jizobu-ji Temple, dedicated to Jizo-Bosatsu (protector of children and travelers), we passed several small statues representing the Buddhist deity. Near every statue we would see some sign of care and devotion. It might be flowers, a can of soda, fruit, cookies, coins – anything that was a heartfelt offering. Along this particular route we observed tiny bamboo rakes, used to keep the area clean around each statue.

We soon entered a towering forest of bamboo, whispering and knocking in the wind. This forest is the reason we didn’t visit Arashiyama while we were in Kyoto, because I knew we’d be walking through an equally beautiful forest without the crowds.

Exiting the forest, we passed terraced fields of mikans and other produce as we walked down from the mountain into town.

Oku Japan surprised us from day one, when we turned a corner and saw a sign with my name on it welcoming us to the Fujishiro Shrine in Kainan.

We were greeted by a man, a woman and a young priest. The older man was wearing a Coleman camping hat, which he and Eric found quite funny. They gave us a tour and explained the significance of this particular shrine. The Fujishiro gate is considered to be the official entry to Kumano Kodo.

It was an odd experience, sitting in an old temple besides ancient statues and an LCD monitor showing a PowerPoint presentation. Actually, it seemed quintessentially Japanese, the old and the modern seamlessly co-existing.

We were instructed to touch the 1,000 year old camphor tree, to feel it breathing. While I remain relatively ignorant of Shintoism and Buddhism, this aspect of nature as a spiritual focus resonates strongly with me. I’ve always felt closer to the Divine outside in nature, rather than inside a church.

Our tour guides walked us to Suzuki Mansion, where we had our first glimpse of a traditional Japanese home and private garden. Don’t let the word mansion mislead you, this was a small home. It was completed in 2023 and is beautifully crafted with reclaimed wood. The slats you see in photo below are actually shutters which can be opened or closed.

A bit more walking and then we headed to the train station to depart for our first ryokan in Yuasa. This seaside town is famous for its soy sauce, but it will forever remain in my memory for the lovely family that owns Kappo Ryokan Miyoshiso. This young family welcomed us into their home and introduced us to the high art of Japanese cuisine. Using Google Translate to converse, we learned they have taken over his family’s historic inn, which is famous for its warm hospitality and food. Yoshinori is a phenomenal chef and his wife Akiko is a ray of sunshine, exuding happiness and comfort.

For those unfamiliar with Japanese ryokan, these are Japanese inns featuring traditional bedrooms and bathing facilities. In this case, our room consisted of tatami mats with puffy futon mattresses and a small seating area with cookies and tea overlooking a beautiful garden. These were the most comfortable beds we had during our Kumano Kodo travel, most other inns had flatter mattresses.

Ryokan can be large enough to feel more like a hotel or small enough to be confused with a minshuku (guesthouse), but what sets them apart is the elaborate food presentation. A ryokan is more than lodging, it’s an experience! At dinner, we explored this new cuisine with several options of sashimi, grilled fish, hot pot vegetables and fish, stuffed kumquat, octopus, mugwort wheat gluten, and fresh fruit.

At breakfast, we discovered a new love for whitebait. This tiny fish is a popular breakfast item in the Wakayama region and served with soy sauce it’s surprisingly satisfying. You don’t notice the eyeballs at all! I also loved the candied flatfish and miso soup with clams.

We ate everything except for one dish. Not only is konnyaku questionable in terms of appearance, but I can attest that the texture and taste is even worse! It’s popular in Japan for its health benefits, so I really wanted to like it. Made from the root vegetable konjac, this gelatinous blob was the only food I refused to eat throughout the entire trip.

Oku Japan chose the perfect place for our first ryokan experience. We were the only guests (the beauty of visiting off-season), which meant we had the onsen all to ourselves. Exiting our bedroom, I walked just a few steps to a separate building housing the baths.

Upon entering the women’s area, I undressed in a locker room. With only a small towel and bathing cloth in hand, I entered the steamy bathing room. On one wall was a line of shower stations, no walls, just a line of stools in front of mirrors and faucets with hand shower sprays, shampoo and soap. Despite being alone, it felt awkward. Not awkward in a bad way, just different. Vulnerable. All awkwardness was forgotten once my tired muscles sank into the blissful water.

For the record, Eric DID try the onsen but only because he had it all to himself. I have a great photo of him wearing the traditional yakata robe but have been informed that if I ever publish that photo he will never cook for me again.

Stick around for my thoughts about bathing with strange women and more walks along the Kumano Kodo.

Asia, Slow travel, Travel Diary, Walking Holidays

Exploring Kyoto Japan, the Slow Way

March 24, 2024 4 Comments

man with backpack standing in a gateway to a Kyoto temple

After a quick visit to Osaka and Nara, we spent 5 nights in Kyoto. This city of 1.4 million people is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Japan, so you might think it odd that a couple who loves slow travel and non-touristy places would choose to spend time here. As we’ve discovered through our travels, however, it’s not the destination that determines how you travel, it’s how you approach it.

Let me explain.

How to Slow Travel Anywhere

I often use the term “slow travel” in my writing but what does it actually mean? To answer that, I’ll start with a Condé Nast Traveler article from April 2023 in which Sebastian Modak perfectly sums it up:

“Slow travel means tamping down our own built-in, conditioned obsessions with time and allowing the world to move just a little slower so that we can actually notice it.”

Read that sentence again and take time to really think about how travel is often packaged and presented to us. How often do you see a travel itinerary that says “spend the day walking around smelling flowers and taking photos of empty cobblestone streets?” When do you see travel influencers bragging about their recent trip to a city or town where they spent most of their time grocery shopping and visiting local businesses?

It happens but you’ll rarely see it unless (like me) you follow those who prefer this form of travel. And let me clarify that slow travelers DO like to visit popular tourist attractions, as you’ll see below once I actually start talking about our Kyoto trip. We’re just more conscientious about what attractions we visit and how/when we visit them.

“Slow travel is a mindset: you don’t need three weeks of vacation to slow down. A day spent strolling through an unfamiliar neighborhood without a crammed to-do list or exploring a state park with nothing but a route map and a bag of snacks could fall under the umbrella of slow travel. It comes down to how you engage with the world as you move through it.” ~ Sebastian Modak

How to Slow Travel Kyoto in 5 Days

So let’s return to Kyoto. I had a list of places we could explore each day but no set itinerary. Of course this list was full of popular tourist attractions, heavily promoted online and in printed guide books, but most itineraries packed several into one day. Our goal was to visit only 1 per day and to leave the city at least once so we could explore the smaller towns.

Wander Kyoto Station

I strategically booked our stay at Mitsui Garden Hotel next to Kyoto Station, probably the best decision I made when planning this trip. Their breakfast was excellent and the location made it easy to get anywhere.

Wandering Japan’s second largest transit station was one of our favorite activities in Kyoto. Everything you could possibly want can probably be found in that 16-floor 238,000 square meter building. The observation floor and staircase that lights up at night is an attraction all by itself! We spent 4 days trying to learn the network system of tunnels and floors and while we certainly improved our navigation skills, we never fully learned the layout. It is its own city. Eric especially loved the Isetan food floors, which were like a Japanese version of Whole Foods on a grander scale.

Look for Kyoto Mascots

One of my favorite aspects of Japanese culture is their use of cute cartoon mascots for everything! You’ll see them on marketing materials, as souvenirs and at live events as costumed mascots. There’s a mascot for the water department, local transit and even specific streets! Some museums and businesses have their own mascot. Kyoto has several mascots but my favorite was the ICOCA mascot, Ico the Platypus.

Eat Anpan & Okonomiyaki

Eric discovered a new fondness for anpan, a pastry filled with sweet bean paste. He looked for these every place we visited.

Eric found the small family-run Yamamoto Mambo about two blocks from our hotel that served okonomiyaki, which we were told we had to try while we were here as this is a popular food in the region. It is best described as a Japanese pancake with ingredients of your choosing along with whatever the chef decides to throw in. I’m not exactly sure what went into ours, but I have a suspicion some offal made its way into mine. Regardless, it was delicious and the atmosphere was cozy and friendly.

Walk to the top of Fushimi Inari Taisha

We spent our first morning in Kyoto exploring the Fushimi Inari temple, walking the equivalent of 72 floors up Mount Inari. This is one of the most popular attractions in Kyoto, and rightly so with its estimated 10,000 iconic vermilion red torii (gates) that lead worshippers up a steep mountain, passing lush forest and hundreds of hokora (small shrines) and otsuka (stones representing deities).

People have been visiting this site for over 1,300 years, believing the deity Inari Okami resides here. The further we climbed, the more I could feel the sacredness of this place, especially when we wandered amidst the small shrines that branch off into the woods.

Despite getting there early, it was crowded and I was surprised to see so much commercialism at the temple entrance. This reveals my naivete about Japan, as I discovered throughout our journey that purchasing amulets and ema (wishes/prayers) is an integral part of the Japanese religions and customs. Through my American eyes, it looked like Disney World selling trinkets. I have so much to learn.

Explore Gion on foot at night

After Fushimi we rested that afternoon, which was wise because by the end of the day we would have walked 8 miles. Wanting at least one experience with someone local, we booked an evening food tour with Pinpoint Traveler. Our tour guide Andres brought us to a small grocery store and pointed out several foods popular in Japan, including a sesame tofu which we would eat later that night at Revolution Books. Eric and I loved Revolution Books, which offers exquisite food in a traditional Japanese standing bar surrounded by books for sale that are all about food.

He then took us through a quick walkthrough of Nishiki Market where we had octopus on a stick, tempura sea eel and stone roasted sweet potato from a tiny food truck. Andres was fantastic, setting a quick pace and filling it with knowledge and space for questions. He encouraged our curiosity and kept us guessing about his origins as he was obviously not originally from Japan. I won’t reveal his home country but I will say that he’s an excellent ambassador for both his homeland and his adopted country.

We met up with Miguel from New York for the second part of our tour in the Gion and Pontocho neighborhoods. First stop, Yasaka Shrine, which was beautifully lit at night and offered a quiet walk with lantern pathways.

We then meandered along canals and quiet streets with shops selling elaborate combs, jewelry and kimonos. Walked the streets of Pontocho, lulled into surrealism by street musicians and playful door decorations.

We ended the evening at a local sake bar where I had my first sake and sashimi. For someone who is usually in bed by 9:00, we were party animals living it up until 11:00. As I sat on the train back to our hotel, I asked myself why we tend to be more spontaneous and fun-loving while traveling. I have no answer.

Walk the Streets of Sannenzaka & Ninenzaka

Having explored Kyoto’s most popular shrine and geisha districts, we wanted to see what old Kyoto looked like before the modern world crept in. The place to see that is a tiny area around Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka streets.

We braved the public bus system to get there. Despite all our world travels, public buses still intimidate me but in Japan it was easy as long as we had Google Maps. It didn’t matter that the bus driver only announced in Japanese, it was easy to see what the next stop was coming up and hit the button. The trickiest part of the bus was getting to the front, plowing down people in an overcrowded bus to exit. We learned quickly to stay towards the front of the bus.

We took the bus to Kiyomizudera temple and wandered the crowded streets of Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka. Normally I would avoid super touristy places like this, but that would be a shame because it’s truly a delightful experience.

I had the most fun watching people that day, as this is one of the areas that people like to dress up in kimonos to take pictures. We saw a color wheel of kimonos, both men and women dressed up, and some costumes were quite elaborate.

I took a photo of what has to be the prettiest Starbucks. I tried rice balls coated in sticky soy sauce. The taste was good, the texture, not so much.

We marveled at the views from atop Kiyomizudera and the fun art exhibits.

Exploring Uji, the Not-So-Hidden Gem

We took the train to Uji, which should be on everyone’s list of best day trips from Kyoto. We went on a Saturday so there was a local market with women selling handmade crafts and produce. The Byodoin Temple was one of our favorites, topped by elaborately carved phoenix and surrounded by a moat.

The Byodoin Museum housed incredible artifacts and statues, including a 9 foot carved Amida Buddha covered in gold-leaf. I especially loved the exhibit with Buddhas floating on clouds. The other “must see” temple is Ujigami, the oldest original Shinto shrine in Japan.

Uji is a beautiful town, especially near the river where the homes and landscaped yards look like movie sets from old Japan. A fitting place for the setting of one of Japan’s most famous works of fiction, The Tale of Genji, written by Murasaki Shikibu in the early 11th century. Shikibu featured Uji in her story, which is considered to be the first novel in recorded history.

The food scene in Uji is remarkable, we wanted to stop at every shop! The smell of roasted matcha and baked goods wafted through every street. We went a little crazy in one bakery, buying matcha bean bread, a hazelnut pastry and matcha cream danish. The bread was so delicious, we went back later in the day to buy more but it was sold out.

The shops sold quality goods and we were one of only a few westerners. Most of the tourists here looked Japanese, which added to the feeling of being a part of daily Japanese life.

Uji was the perfect choice for a couple who loves walking, as there is a nice river walk about .7 mi (1.2 km) to a suspension bridge, with turquoise water, ducks and cormorants, and very few people. During our walk to the bridge, we saw our first foragers in Japan, it looked like they were picking some kind of nettle. The couple would stop their car every few feet, run to the grass to pick something then place it in a bag with water.

One of Uji’s most fascinating attractions is their seasonal cormorant fishing, occurring July-September. Their age-old practice of ukai, used since the 700s, uses cormorant birds that are trained to catch fish. The bird swallows the fish and the fisherman massages the fish out of the bird’s gullet. Before you start spouting animal cruelty, read this story by Luke Fater in Atlas Obscura to get a better perspective.

Walk the Philosopher’s Path in Kyoto

We took the subway to Keage Station, where we began our walk along an old railroad and the Lake Biwa Canal. This little slice of Kyoto may not see as many western tourists but it’s popular with domestic tourists who flock here during cherry blossom season. It’s also popular with architects and engineers who come to marvel at the canal construction and hydroelectric facilities.

Entering through Nejirimanpo Tunnel, which played with our eyes as the brick was laid in a spiral pattern, a path took us to Konchi-in Temple where we paid a small entry fee to enjoy the beautiful Crane and Turtle zen garden. I tried to convince Eric to sit with me and meditate but his feet were itching to walk, so we continued onwards.

We meandered all around the Nanzen-ji temple area, following no particular route, stopping to take photos of anything that caught our eye. There is much here to delight anyone who loves architecture and gardens.

Passing Higashiyama High School and another temple area (Eikando), we reached the starting point for the Philosopher’s Path. Just a few steps into our walk, an older gentleman offered to make us tiny boats made from leaves and flowers. Through gestures we understood that we were supposed to drop the offering into the canal. When Eric’s boat landed correctly and happily floated away, this was apparently good luck. When mine landed top-down and sank, bad luck for me.

I wanted so badly to ask the man why he does this and how long he’s been doing it. He doesn’t ask for money, so I assume it brings him joy.

The Philosopher’s Path is a scenic stroll along a canal lined with cherry trees and is so named because it was a popular walking route for Japan’s famous philosopher Nishida Kitaro.

Our walk in late February didn’t offer the soft pinks of cherry season or the warm explosion of autumn, but it did provide us with a much preferred solitude (something I believe we shared with Kitaro). We shared the path with only a few local residents walking their dogs.

At the end of the Philosopher’s Path, we returned to Keage Station via a different route. Hungry and in need of caffeine, we stopped at a Doutor coffee shop which had fantastic coffee and sweets! Besides one harried-looking college student, we were the only ones under the age of 70 and received curious, perplexed looks from the elders.

Choose a Temple/Shrine for Prayer

Our last stop of the day was Okazaki-jinja, a shrine much beloved for its adorable rabbit statues and its focus on childbirth. We visited for Eric’s mom (whose nickname was Rabbit) and my sister (who has struggled with multiple miscarriages).

While I can’t say that praying here will alter the future for our loved ones, I did feel a sense of peace knowing that we were participating in an ancient ritual that transcends religion, time and culture. Watching young couples pull the bell and throw their coins with hopeful looks on their faces was no different than someone kneeling before a lit candle, petitioning for something beyond their control.

Speaking of prayer, we’re heading on an ancient pilgrimage along the Kumano Kodo next, so stick around for that adventure! For a more thorough walking guide, see Exploring Kyoto & Beyond: the Ultimate Walking Tour Guide.

Asia, Slow travel, Travel Diary, Walking Holidays

Planning a Trip to Japan’s Kansai Region

March 20, 2024 3 Comments

woman pulling rope to ring bell at a temple in Nara Japan

“Zen is what remains when words and ideas run out.” ~ Pico Iyer

Preparing for Japan

One of the best choices I made before traveling to Japan was reading Pico Iyer’s A Beginner’s Guide to Japan: Observations and Provocations. His observations as a foreigner, married to a Japanese woman and living in Japan for over 30 years, were the perfect soft introduction to a place that is completely foreign to me. Other than what we’ve seen through movies and the occasional sub-par sushi, Eric and I have had zero exposure to Japanese culture, history or cuisine.

Turns out, arriving in Japan with a Buddhist-like mindset, empty of thoughts and expectations, is a great way to experience the Land of the Rising Sun. This was one of our most enjoyable travel experiences and I believe it’s because we approached it with a child-like enthusiasm and naivete.

Traveling to Japan

Our trip to Japan this February was a last minute decision, completely out of character for us. Eric and I are planners and international trips are always planned at least 6 months in advance (if not a year). We were originally scheduled to visit Switzerland, but after the death of Eric’s mom, Switzerland didn’t feel right. Knowing both of Eric’s parents were born near Osaka, I made a gut decision and we changed our flights and booked a 6-day Kumano Kodo tour with Oku Japan. I added days to explore Kyoto and Wakayama, feeling confident we could find things to do and navigate on our own. Within a month, we found ourselves on a plane to Japan.

If planning a trip to Japan last minute (like us), start with Chris Rowthorn’s Japan Itineraries. Everything you need (lodging, transportation logistics, places to eat) can be found on Rowthorn’s websites. If you have more time for planning and want alternative regions outside of Tokyo/Osaka/Kyoto, look at Travel Japan’s Destinations.

1 Night in Osaka

We arrived at Osaka’s Kansai Airport, fully prepared (or so I thought). I knew to buy an ICOCA card for transportation and had figured out how much we’d need for our trip. We knew what train to take for our Osaka hotel but I was not prepared for our transit cards to lock up. These train virgins didn’t realize you can’t double tap the card when going through a gate. But no worries, the helpful staff at the Japan Rail (JR) office just a few feet away helped us out. We had no issues with trains or buses for the rest of our time in Japan.

Plan your Japan trip around the transit system, which is EXCELLENT! Book your high-speed trains in advance for long-distance routes but give yourself freedom to alter plans for the rest of the trip (this is where prepaid cards become your best friend). Our ICOCA card worked for all trains and buses in the Kansai region except for a few small routes along the Kumano Kodo. We never used a taxi or rideshare.

Our first night in Osaka is a blur (thank you jet lag) but I do remember opening our hotel window for the first time and getting a glimpse of the city skyline at night. There are no words to describe the mix of awe and trepidation I felt in that moment. We were in a sci-fi movie, in a futuristic city so alien from anything we’ve ever seen. I could hear the theme music to Blade Runner pulsing through my head.

First Taste of Japanese Cuisine

We splurged for breakfast that morning at the Hotel Monterey Grasmere. They had a small section of western-style breakfast items but the rest of the room consisted of various stations highlighting Japanese cuisine.

Lemongrass, burdock and lotus root in the salad section. Puff pastries stuffed with octopus. Multiple options for fish. Fluffy tamagoyaki (rolled omelets). Tasty sweets such as mochi, matcha pudding and a theatrical donut station that looked more like art than food (think Dylan’s Candy Bar). Totally worth the splurge, it was the best way to quickly introduce us to Japanese cuisine.

Besides the lavish breakfast, the Grasmere housed a thatched roof chapel styled as an authentic replica of All Saints Brockhampton in the Cotswolds. It seemed odd at first but makes perfect sense when you consider Japan’s fascination with fairy tales and foreign cultures.

1 Night in Nara

After breakfast we took the train to Nara where I booked a night at the Nara Visitor Center, the best deal in town. Excellent service, perfect location and free activities. We were able to leave our luggage both days while we wandered Nara’s historic residential neighborhoods, its bustling Higashimuki shopping street and the wonders of Nara Park.

The visitor center didn’t serve breakfast, which would have been nice since most places didn’t open until 10:00 or 11:00. If you want an early start, Aka Tombo Coffee offers a simple breakfast set within walking distance, or you can make a breakfast reservation at Nara Hotel (only available Mon-Fri). If you have a chance to try the local breakfast specialty, chagayu (tea porridge), even better! For lunch and dinner there are plenty of budget-friendly options, from aromatic soba or ramen to steamy pork buns, as well as Nara’s famous Nakatanidou mochi (which we never tried because the lines were too long).

We settled for Starbucks since we needed coffee that was quick and available before 10:00, which made me sad because Nara has several excellent cafes.

Nara Park

Nara is a popular day tour for people visiting Kyoto or Osaka, but we came here to walk all of Nara Park so I knew we’d need 2 days. Looking back, I should have added a 2nd night because you really need 3 days to properly explore Nara.

We managed to walk almost every path through Nara Park and visit the Kohfukuji National Treasure Hall, which houses the Ashura statue (famous in Japan) as well as several impressive Kongorikishi wood carvings.

Nara was once the capital of Japan, before Kyoto and Tokyo, so there is a rich history here to discover. We felt lucky to see a Shinto Kagura (sacred dance) being performed by who I assume were miko (shrine maidens) at the Himurojinja. All of the shrines were unique but this one was especially fascinating. Dedicated to an ice deity, there were blocks of ice with sheets of blank paper that when placed on the ice revealed your fortune.

Nara was our first exposure to Japanese temples (Buddhist) and shrines (Shinto) and it was the perfect place for such an introduction. At some point all of the original temples were destroyed by fire (that tends to happen when you combine wood buildings with fire ceremonies), but the reconstructions are equally as beautiful and hundreds of years old. My personal favorite was Nigatsu-dō Hall with its stunning location and elaborate woodwork.

Aside from the stunning architecture and ancient history, Nara Park was simply a lovely walk and we could happily have spent a week ambling through its ancient forests. There were wide open lawns, secluded ponds surrounded by plum trees and ethereal forest lined with moss covered lanterns.

Nara is also famous for its deer, which roam the town freely. This sounds lovely in theory, but in reality it’s annoying. We ignored the deer but were thoroughly entertained watching people feed them rice crackers which they purchased from street vendors. I should be ashamed of admitting to some fleeting joy at watching them get attacked by the greedy deer, but it was just too funny. I saw one poor woman with a cane running away while deer chased her – I did feel empathy for her.

Nara deer are revered as protectors, but I guess they are protectors of the gods, not the humans. One thing that is certainly true, if you bow to the deer, they bow back. I had read this in several blogs but didn’t believe it until I witnessed it with my own eyes.

If you visit Nara on Saturday or Sunday, walk to the Manyo Botanical Garden area before 10:00 to witness the Shika Yose (calling of the deer), when someone gathers deer by playing Beethoven’s 6th Symphony on french horn.

Keep reading as we Explore Kyoto the Slow Way, including a lovely river town that you won’t find in most pre-packaged tours. Plus, our 6 days walking the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail. Serious about planning a trip to Kyoto? Read Exploring Kyoto & Beyond: The Ultimate Walking Tour Guide.

Beyond the Trail: Food and Friendship on the Kumano Kodo

What is the Kumano Kodo?

Why walk the Kumano Kodo?

Kumano Kodo Day 1: Shimizu-Ura to Kainan

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Exploring Kyoto Japan, the Slow Way

How to Slow Travel Anywhere