“Zen is what remains when words and ideas run out.” ~ Pico Iyer
Preparing for Japan
One of the best choices I made before traveling to Japan was reading Pico Iyer’s A Beginner’s Guide to Japan: Observations and Provocations. His observations as a foreigner, married to a Japanese woman and living in Japan for over 30 years, were the perfect soft introduction to a place that is completely foreign to me. Other than what we’ve seen through movies and the occasional sub-par sushi, Eric and I have had zero exposure to Japanese culture, history or cuisine.
Turns out, arriving in Japan with a Buddhist-like mindset, empty of thoughts and expectations, is a great way to experience the Land of the Rising Sun. This was one of our most enjoyable travel experiences and I believe it’s because we approached it with a child-like enthusiasm and naivete.
Traveling to Japan
Our trip to Japan this February was a last minute decision, completely out of character for us. Eric and I are planners and international trips are always planned at least 6 months in advance (if not a year). We were originally scheduled to visit Switzerland, but after the death of Eric’s mom, Switzerland didn’t feel right. Knowing both of Eric’s parents were born near Osaka, I made a gut decision and we changed our flights and booked a 6-day Kumano Kodo tour with Oku Japan. I added days to explore Kyoto and Wakayama, feeling confident we could find things to do and navigate on our own. Within a month, we found ourselves on a plane to Japan.
If planning a trip to Japan last minute (like us), start with Chris Rowthorn’s Japan Itineraries. Everything you need (lodging, transportation logistics, places to eat) can be found on Rowthorn’s websites. If you have more time for planning and want alternative regions outside of Tokyo/Osaka/Kyoto, look at Travel Japan’s Destinations.
1 Night in Osaka
We arrived at Osaka’s Kansai Airport, fully prepared (or so I thought). I knew to buy an ICOCA card for transportation and had figured out how much we’d need for our trip. We knew what train to take for our Osaka hotel but I was not prepared for our transit cards to lock up. These train virgins didn’t realize you can’t double tap the card when going through a gate. But no worries, the helpful staff at the Japan Rail (JR) office just a few feet away helped us out. We had no issues with trains or buses for the rest of our time in Japan.
Plan your Japan trip around the transit system, which is EXCELLENT! Book your high-speed trains in advance for long-distance routes but give yourself freedom to alter plans for the rest of the trip (this is where prepaid cards become your best friend). Our ICOCA card worked for all trains and buses in the Kansai region except for a few small routes along the Kumano Kodo. We never used a taxi or rideshare.
Our first night in Osaka is a blur (thank you jet lag) but I do remember opening our hotel window for the first time and getting a glimpse of the city skyline at night. There are no words to describe the mix of awe and trepidation I felt in that moment. We were in a sci-fi movie, in a futuristic city so alien from anything we’ve ever seen. I could hear the theme music to Blade Runner pulsing through my head.
First Taste of Japanese Cuisine
We splurged for breakfast that morning at the Hotel Monterey Grasmere. They had a small section of western-style breakfast items but the rest of the room consisted of various stations highlighting Japanese cuisine.
Lemongrass, burdock and lotus root in the salad section. Puff pastries stuffed with octopus. Multiple options for fish. Fluffy tamagoyaki (rolled omelets). Tasty sweets such as mochi, matcha pudding and a theatrical donut station that looked more like art than food (think Dylan’s Candy Bar). Totally worth the splurge, it was the best way to quickly introduce us to Japanese cuisine.
Besides the lavish breakfast, the Grasmere housed a thatched roof chapel styled as an authentic replica of All Saints Brockhampton in the Cotswolds. It seemed odd at first but makes perfect sense when you consider Japan’s fascination with fairy tales and foreign cultures.
1 Night in Nara
After breakfast we took the train to Nara where I booked a night at the Nara Visitor Center, the best deal in town. Excellent service, perfect location and free activities. We were able to leave our luggage both days while we wandered Nara’s historic residential neighborhoods, its bustling Higashimuki shopping street and the wonders of Nara Park.
The visitor center didn’t serve breakfast, which would have been nice since most places didn’t open until 10:00 or 11:00. If you want an early start, Aka Tombo Coffee offers a simple breakfast set within walking distance, or you can make a breakfast reservation at Nara Hotel (only available Mon-Fri). If you have a chance to try the local breakfast specialty, chagayu (tea porridge), even better! For lunch and dinner there are plenty of budget-friendly options, from aromatic soba or ramen to steamy pork buns, as well as Nara’s famous Nakatanidou mochi (which we never tried because the lines were too long).
We settled for Starbucks since we needed coffee that was quick and available before 10:00, which made me sad because Nara has several excellent cafes.
Nara Park
Nara is a popular day tour for people visiting Kyoto or Osaka, but we came here to walk all of Nara Park so I knew we’d need 2 days. Looking back, I should have added a 2nd night because you really need 3 days to properly explore Nara.
We managed to walk almost every path through Nara Park and visit the Kohfukuji National Treasure Hall, which houses the Ashura statue (famous in Japan) as well as several impressive Kongorikishi wood carvings.
Nara was once the capital of Japan, before Kyoto and Tokyo, so there is a rich history here to discover. We felt lucky to see a Shinto Kagura (sacred dance) being performed by who I assume were miko (shrine maidens) at the Himurojinja. All of the shrines were unique but this one was especially fascinating. Dedicated to an ice deity, there were blocks of ice with sheets of blank paper that when placed on the ice revealed your fortune.
Nara was our first exposure to Japanese temples (Buddhist) and shrines (Shinto) and it was the perfect place for such an introduction. At some point all of the original temples were destroyed by fire (that tends to happen when you combine wood buildings with fire ceremonies), but the reconstructions are equally as beautiful and hundreds of years old. My personal favorite was Nigatsu-dō Hall with its stunning location and elaborate woodwork.
Aside from the stunning architecture and ancient history, Nara Park was simply a lovely walk and we could happily have spent a week ambling through its ancient forests. There were wide open lawns, secluded ponds surrounded by plum trees and ethereal forest lined with moss covered lanterns.
Nara is also famous for its deer, which roam the town freely. This sounds lovely in theory, but in reality it’s annoying. We ignored the deer but were thoroughly entertained watching people feed them rice crackers which they purchased from street vendors. I should be ashamed of admitting to some fleeting joy at watching them get attacked by the greedy deer, but it was just too funny. I saw one poor woman with a cane running away while deer chased her – I did feel empathy for her.
Nara deer are revered as protectors, but I guess they are protectors of the gods, not the humans. One thing that is certainly true, if you bow to the deer, they bow back. I had read this in several blogs but didn’t believe it until I witnessed it with my own eyes.
If you visit Nara on Saturday or Sunday, walk to the Manyo Botanical Garden area before 10:00 to witness the Shika Yose (calling of the deer), when someone gathers deer by playing Beethoven’s 6th Symphony on french horn.
Keep reading as we Explore Kyoto the Slow Way, including a lovely river town that you won’t find in most pre-packaged tours. Plus, our 6 days walking the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail. Serious about planning a trip to Kyoto? Read Exploring Kyoto & Beyond: The Ultimate Walking Tour Guide.
3 Comments
Can’t wait to read more!
Glad you liked it! The stories get much more interesting as we head out of the city.