I have a love-hate relationship with Charleston, South Carolina. As a southern girl who knows the darker histories beneath a charming city like this, it’s sometimes hard for me to fully relax or feel at peace. When I gaze at the stately mansions and walk the cobblestone alleyways with beautiful hidden gardens, I am ever aware of the underlying wealth and white privilege and social divisions that a city like Charleston has in spades. And it’s not just the city — South Carolina’s lowcountry region rouses this conflict in me every time we visit. And yet, I LOVED our visit here and let me tell you why…
Charleston was destination #2 during our southeast coast trip in April. If you missed our first stop in St Augustine, read about it HERE. We had driven through Charleston on a previous trip but never stayed overnight. This time, we spent 3 nights with 3 goals: eat great food, walk every street and alley in downtown, and take photos of beautiful architecture. Charleston didn’t disappoint. 
We stayed in a cottage on Church St between Elliott and Tradd, a prestigious neighborhood with very old homes and hidden patio gardens, close enough to the action but removed enough to feel like a local instead of a tourist. The cottage was built in 1778 as one of 2 kitchen houses and was situated behind the main house and shared a patio with another cottage. Owners Mr. and Mrs. Middleton met us when we arrived with a warm greeting and some history about the property and their family. Their daughter and son-in-law operate a walking tour company, with tours that often conclude in the back patio. We eavesdropped on one of those tours while we were there. Now lest you think we were living in old-world luxury, let me set you straight right now. This cottage was OLD and needed updates. Space on the lower floor was cramped, with a tiny kitchen and questionable appliances, and there was a damp old brick smell on the lower floor. The route upstairs was a winding staircase with unavoidable head bumping overhangs. But the bed was amazingly comfortable and the bathroom was spacious (but outdated). To stay in a building with that kind of history in that location for a relatively affordable price, it was worth it!
I loved being able to get up in the morning and just walk the streets of downtown Charleston. Rainbow Row gets a lot of attention from Instagram junkies, but to me the true gems were the blocks all along the lower battery area and the hidden alleys like Bedons, Philadelphia and Gateway Walk between King and Archdale. Longitude Lane was probably my favorite and it has an interesting story behind it’s name (read it HERE). I loved Queen Street for its row houses with the long porches and stately courtyards. King Street had fabulous shopping and beautiful commercial buildings and theatres. I was not impressed with the City Market, would gladly have skipped that and most of E. Bay Street where most of the tourists hung out, but the area near the old slave market had some lovely architecture. We were there in Spring so the Confederate Jasmine was in full bloom and nearly every brick wall in Charleston was draped with those fragrant blooms. It’s a nice treat for those used to cities like New Orleans, where the visual beauty doesn’t always match the aroma.
Dock St Theatre
near S Battery
near S Battery
Longitude Lane
Alley
Alley
on King st
Bedons Alley
When we weren’t walking, we were eating! Our first night was nothing glorious. We were late arriving from St Augustine so we had cancelled our dinner reservations to Hank’s Seafood and instead opted to walk a mile to the closest grocery store. We dined on Marie Callender’s pot pies and a bottle of wine. Not our best gourmet moment. But that’s ok, because we made up for it the next day. Slightly North of Broad (aka S.N.O.B.) was my favorite restaurant in Charleston. We had to wait almost an hour to be seated, but it’s on Bay Street in the heart of downtown, so we found a shady spot to stand and enjoyed people watching. The atmosphere was festive, professional and classy without being stuffy or pretentious, and everything we ate was delicious! We were there for lunch and most of the guests seemed to be regulars so we didn’t feel like tourists. It actually reminded me of Galatoire’s in New Orleans, as the waitstaff seemed to treat everyone like well-known family members.
S.N.O.B.
S.N.O.B.
S.N.O.B.
We had dinner at Husk, which we’ve had on our watchlist ever since seeing it on Chef’s Table (our Netflix food porn of choice). We made dinner reservations weeks in advance and the food and presentation were perfection, but I’ll admit, I found the atmosphere boring. But oh what glorious food!
Just a block from our cottage was a tiny shop called Goat. Sheep. Cow. and it was probably Eric’s favorite find! This tiny charcuterie and cheese shop was packed with gourmet selections and a great selection of wine with friendly knowledgeable staff. Eric had read online that they make a small selection of sandwiches each day and run out fast, so we got there early and were the first ones in the door. By the time we left with our golden sandwiches and gourmet cheese, the remaining sandwiches had already been spoken for. The feeling of elitism might have given that sandwich a special edge, but I swear it was probably the best tasting meat on bread I’ve ever had.
