Exploring the Faroe Islands: Eysturoy

“A tale of two tourists, illegally hopping a fence and making friends in the process.”

During our two week exploration of the Faroe Islands, we saved the island of Eysturoy for last.  We had more interactions with people on this island than we had throughout our entire trip, which made those last two days our most memorable.  We also stayed in the most unique lodging — a converted boathouse, complete with composting toilet and a bunker bedroom.  Believe it or not, that AirBnb in Lamba was our 2nd favorite lodging of the entire trip.  We had floor-to-ceiling windows and a giant wooden hot tub with unspoiled views of the ocean and the most amazing sunrises.

ladder going down to sleeping bunker

1st experience with a Jerry can!

View from hot tub

View from hot tub

Funny story:  While in the boathouse, Eric went down into the hot tub room to close the outer doors because we were afraid birds might fly in. While down there he heard what sounded like bird wings flapping.  He frantically began searching in the dark for a trapped bird.  Meanwhile I was sitting upstairs playing solitaire and wondering what was taking him so long.  After about 5 minutes, an irate Eric popped his head up like a gopher and accusingly asked “are you shuffling cards?!!!!”

Having missed the two hikes we planned to do in the Northern Isles, we decided we’d better get back to our original itinerary while on Eysturoy.  We chose the hike from Oyndarfjørður to Elduvík.  In Oyndarfjørður, we parked at the little store just before the school.  We followed instructions perfectly but could not find the gate to begin the trail.  There were multiple gates and all looked like they went on private property.  After much deliberation and feeling desperate we went through a gate that was definitely questionable, then got really desperate and climbed over a gate that was heavily roped off.   We knew it couldn’t be the path, so we turned back.  A nearby farmer very graciously offered to assist but his vague instructions to head “up the hill” really weren’t any help.  The hill in question was at least 180 degrees of directional choices, so we began to trek up still confused.

But the angels shone down upon us that day for three smiling faces appeared out of nowhere with their walking sticks.  The woman and her brother were native to Eysturoy, and her husband was from Copenhagen.  The husband was retired from the Air Force and VERY chatty.  They didn’t seem concerned about trails, so we followed along with them up the hill.  We chatted about hurricanes and commiserated on America’s measly vacation policies.  The husband had vertigo and so could not do the hike around the mountain, but they watched to make sure that we made it safely along the difficult part of the trail and checked to make sure that we had a cell phone.  It was adorable.  The brother was using an old rake handle for his hiking stick.  Once again, I was reminded that hiking doesn’t have to be complicated.  It’s as simple as walking with some sort of destination in mind.  No fancy REI equipment necessary and if you wander a little bit, even better!

Once atop the hill, the trail narrowly hugged the cliffs with steep vertical drops below.  We had to stop a few times for resident sheep to move.  When we reached Elduvík we had a picnic lunch by the wharf with views of the Elduvík gorge.  There has been a settlement here since the 14th century, so even though it was tiny and there was no food, it was well worth the stop.  Retracing our steps back, we finally found the true trailhead when we returned to Oyndarfjørður.  The orange trail markers were shorter than the grass around them, and the gate was tucked behind a blue house so we assumed it was private property (which it was).

Elduvik

Elduvik

Elduvik

Finding the beginning of the trail wasn’t always the issue.  On the following day, we attempted to hike from Lamba to Rituvík.  The trail was easy to find because there was a sign and a little bridge clearly marking the trail head.

After just a few feet the path met up with a dirt path going left and right but there was nothing going straight (as our directions clearly stated).  As with the day before, there was simply no trail and no footsteps going up.  We walked along the side path in both directions, thinking maybe we’d see something, but all we saw were some really funny looking sheep.  We found out later that the orange buoy around its neck meant the sheep was a trouble-maker, probably one that repeatedly tried to jump the fence.  The fact that he was half-sheared really didn’t help his image.Having failed to locate the trail (because THERE WASN’T ONE), we opted to walk a nature preserve in Runavík instead.  The nature preserve was called Vistarheimið on Google Maps, and the only place we could see to park was at a sports complex on the main road.  Like Kunoy Park, this was a hidden gem that seemed to be completely off the tourist radar.  We loved it!  It was an easy flat path around Lake Toftavatn, with an alternate option to trek up a hill to see the pride of the Faroese — their new international football stadium.

Runavík and its neighbor Saltangará were really nice, with several clothing shops and grocery options and at least two good places to eat:  Cafe Cibo and Bakaríið.  That bakery was our favorite, but there was also a good bakery across the fjord in Skali.  In Runavík, with canvas bags in hand, we felt we had mastered the grocery store experience when we saw a local using a white bucket to put her groceries in.  As long as you remember something to carry your stuff out with, you’re apparently a local.

Skali Bakari

Cafe Cibo

We drove all over the southern portion of Eysturoy, stopping to rest in hammocks on a beach in Sydrugota, and look in awe at the giant undersea tunnel being built in the Nes Municipality region.

That evening, we got to experience Heimablídni, the Faroese tradition of dining in someone’s home.  There were several options all over the islands, but we chose Hanusarstova with John and Harriet.  We LOVED our visit with them.  They welcomed us into their home as if we were already friends, introduced us to a typical Faroese family dinner, and answered the MANY questions we had been accumulating during our trip.  Harriet came from generations of sheep farmers and was very attached to her four-legged family members.  Her beautiful photographs of her sheep dressed up in hats and flower wreaths were testament to the genuine affection she holds for them.  If you visit the Faroe Islands, this is a MUST DO experience!

For our last day on Eysturoy, we visited the VERY popular northernmost village of Gjogv.  We had tried previously to visit this town, but it was on a Sunday afternoon and there were so many people parked we couldn’t even get close to the village.  Our second time around was early in the morning on a weekday, which was perfect.  Besides cute colorful homes, Gjogv’s enticement was its beautiful gorge.  It truly was an amazing view and I could see why the tourists flock here.  We had breakfast at the Gjaargardur Guesthouse and briefly considered the hike going up from the gorge to the valley of Ambadalur.

And this wraps up our travel diary of the Faroe Islands.  I will do one more post, detailing our recommended itinerary and travel tips, and then I will say goodbye to these epic islands…at least for now. 😉