Eric and I began the year with trains and pilgrimage walks in Japan, followed by Irish ferries, buses and hillwalking. Now we’re closing it with a road trip to Vancouver Island. These journeys remind me to cherish the act of travel itself, regardless of destination or means of transport.
This is Part 3 of our 2024 Road Trip West.
World's Best Burger in Cumberland
We arrive by ferry as sunset approaches and stop in Cumberland for dinner at Cook’s, home of THE BEST BURGER I’ve ever eaten! This former mining town, now host to an annual Fungus Fest, carries a laid-back vibe with its dispensaries and youthful energy.
First Impressions of Campbell River
Our Campbell River Airbnb, affectionately dubbed “Granny’s Attic” by Eric, overlooks Discovery Passage. We wake to fog over the water and a light rain, and I embrace this weather because it means I’m in my happy place – the Pacific Northwest.
Market Shopping
Eric is in his happy place when we visit the Campbell River farmer’s market, one of the best markets we’ve been to. Great balance of food and local art vendors, all friendly and happy to chat with strangers. We leave with lighter wallets but happy hearts, our bags full of local produce, smoked salmon, jerky, and artwork. Folk music and fresh croissants from Freyja’s complete the scene.
Hiking the Forests near Campbell River
Rain plagues us throughout our time in Campbell River, so we forget our plans to hike in Strathcona Park and resign ourselves to beautiful walks in the Beaver Lodge Forest Lands and Elk Falls Provincial Park. No complaints – these forests rival Washington’s Olympic National Park in their magic.
Hunting for Art
Between raindrops, we hunt for wooden art along the waterfront. Since 1997, the “Transformations on the Shore” chainsaw competition has filled Campbell River with sculptures depicting local wildlife and First Nations themes. The town has significant First Nations art installations and several excellent art galleries.
Small Sacrifices for a Nomad Life
I find myself grumbling one day about the rain and the fact that the oven and dryer don’t work at this Airbnb, but quickly chastise myself for complaining. I’m on a beautiful island with the man I love, doing the work I love, while being able to travel. It doesn’t get any better than this.
Warm Hospitality in a Cup
It’s still raining the day we leave the east coast of Vancouver Island, so we stop for comfort food at The Soup Pot in Courtenay. This is one of those local eateries that most people would pass on the street and never notice, but you’d be missing out on the best cheese scones and hearty soups imaginable! And lovely owners, who give you a sample to help you decide what soup to order.
Thoughts on Tofino
I want to love Tofino, because everyone I’ve spoken to about Vancouver Island says “oh you MUST visit Tofino!” Now that we’re here, I can admire the beautiful beaches set amidst rainforest, the artsy surfer town with its youthful “anything is possible” vibe. But paradise comes at a price: expensive lodging, paid parking and crowds (even in shoulder season). Don’t get me wrong, this place is special, but it’s a tiny piece of land that is loved by many, so it’s best visited during the off season.
Why Ucluelet Wins Our Hearts
Eric and I love Ucluelet! The town itself lacks the hipster vibe and easily walkable design of Tofino, but the trail system here is magnificent and it’s free. Parking is free in Ucluelet, it has a good grocery store and restaurants, and it’s still close enough to Tofino to enjoy everything this region has to offer. Lodging is also cheaper (for now).
The Wild Pacific Trail
My breath catches as we begin our hike along the Wild Pacific Trail in Ucluelet. We begin on the Artists Loops and Ancient Cedars, awestruck at the ancient forest and crashing waves. It’s all coastal trail, rarely do we lose sight of the ocean.
We walk the Lighthouse Loop on a Saturday, so we share trail space with several families with young children. Hearing their squeals of glee every few feet as they get a new glimpse of the ocean or spot a spooky looking old tree just adds to our enjoyment of this beautiful trail.
Most Interesting Man in the World
We call him Bob Sooke and he’s the most interesting man on Vancouver Island that we’ve met. Bob is our Airbnb host in the town of Sooke, and we spend hours visiting with him during our stay. He’s a whirlwind of knowledge and stories, and I’m still questioning half of what he tells us about hiring a helicopter in South America to fly over a mountain no one’s ever flown over. Or his comment about solo hiking some of the most remote long-distance trails in northern British Columbia. “You just charter a boat and hop out of a helicopter and you can hike it, easy peasy.” Uh huh.
Sooke, a Hiker's Paradise
Besides charming local personalities, Sooke bespells us with its proximity to TONS and TONS of hiking trails. All of Vancouver Island is a hiking paradise, but Sooke especially so. We stretch our legs that first night by walking across the street to watch the sunset from Marine Boardwalk and Macgregor Park. Families are crabbing from the docks and it feels reminiscent of coastal Louisiana.
Hiking East Sooke Park
The following day we explore East Sooke Regional Park. LOVE this park! We start on the west side at Silver Spray Trailhead, thankful that Bob gave us directions because this entry is not well marked. We wander for awhile along Pike Point and Iron Mine Bay Beach, where we watch scuba divers swim alongside an otter.
We then follow the Coast Trail, marveling at the gorgeous views and comparing this trail to coastal hikes in Oregon.
We take our time on this trail, often stopping to sit under a shady tree to watch more scuba divers or listen to the wind moving through the trees. We walk as long as we wish before turning around to loop back a different way, heading into the forest.
The East side of East Sooke Park is equally stunning, albeit more crowded, which is obvious as soon as we arrive at the huge Aylard Farm parking lot. It’s popular because there are so many hidden coves and beaches, all easily accessible with a short walk.
Besides the beautiful hidden beaches, trees are a highlight of this section of the park. We walk through old growth Coastal Western Hemlock, Douglas Fir and Western Red Cedars, but the red barked Madrona plants are what capture my attention. They call them Arbutus trees here.
Coastal Walks in Juan de Fuca
It’s a little over one hour to reach on a bumpy road, but we enjoy the coastal drive along Hwy 14 to reach Botanical Beach in Juan de Fuca Park. Once again, our jaws drop at the beauty before us.
The walk through dense forest is pretty by itself and the views at Botany Bay and Botanical Beach are just icing on the cake.
We tried to get here for low tide but manage mid-tide instead, which means we miss some of the best tidepools. But Eric and I are fine with that, there’s a resident Bald Eagle perched in his aerie here at the beach and it’s currently not raining.
Braving the Juan de Fuca Trail
Eric thinks he’s here for easy beach walks, but I convince him to set out on a section of the Juan de Fuca Trail. This is one of the most challenging multi-day trails in British Columbia, mostly due to coastal erosion and high tides. I have no intention of ever thru-hiking this trail, so I just want a glimpse of it.
Less than two miles in, we encounter poor trail conditions and fresh scat and large paw prints in the mud. Believing this to be cougar, we turn around. Actually, Eric sprints away and I have to remind him “safety in numbers!”
Moody Vibes at Pacheedat Beach
Back in our car, we drive to Pacheedat Beach to enjoy a quiet picnic lunch. A storm is moving in and this is the perfect beach to watch it unfold, although my hands are frozen stiff. Between the mist, cold weather and a crow who won’t leave us alone, I’m getting serious Winterfell vibes and hearing the Game of Thrones soundtrack in my head. We run back to the car when it starts raining.
A Perfect Ending
Our last day on Vancouver Island couldn’t have ended more perfectly. We experience rush hour traffic on the way to Victoria and quickly decide to avoid the city entirely, diverting instead to Butchart Gardens. Perfect decision.
We arrive as the gardens open, which means we miss the worst of the crowds, although they quickly appear within the hour. We roam the grounds, often retracing our steps to get a different view.
Eric and I have seen some beautiful gardens. Longwood in Pennsylvania, Ohme in Washington, Keukenhof in The Netherlands, temple gardens in Kyoto – we appreciate how each reflects its creators’ vision.
The gardens take less time than we expected, so we enjoy an early lunch at Seahorses Cafe in Brentwood Bay. We visit with our Aussie waitress from Melbourne and drool over the best cauliflower bites ever! Then we spend 2 hours at the public library, where we meet a retired doctor who is a fellow travel blogger. I shake my head in acknowledgment when he says “libraries are the perfect place to meet interesting people.”
Final Thoughts of the Island
Vancouver Island embodies the perfect blend of wild nature and welcoming communities. Time slows down here and every moment reminds us why we continue to return to the Pacific Northwest. Often the best journeys are those that have no itinerary, and small moments such as finding friendship in a library corner become the most memorable activity.
Stay tuned for one last post, as we begin The Journey Back Home.
