Planning a Trip to Japan’s Kansai Region

woman pulling rope to ring bell at a temple in Nara Japan

“Zen is what remains when words and ideas run out.” ~ Pico Iyer

Preparing for Japan

One of the best choices I made before traveling to Japan was reading Pico Iyer’s A Beginner’s Guide to Japan: Observations and Provocations. His observations as a foreigner, married to a Japanese woman and living in Japan for over 30 years, were the perfect soft introduction to a place that is completely foreign to me. Other than what we’ve seen through movies and the occasional sub-par sushi, Eric and I have had zero exposure to Japanese culture, history or cuisine.

lanterns near Kasuga Taisha shrine in Nara Japan
Lanterns near Kasuga Taisha Shrine in Nara, our introduction to Japanese spirituality

Turns out, arriving in Japan with a Buddhist-like mindset, empty of thoughts and  expectations, is a great way to experience the Land of the Rising Sun. This was one of our most enjoyable travel experiences and I believe it’s because we approached it with a child-like enthusiasm and naivete.

Traveling to Japan

Our trip to Japan this February was a last minute decision, completely out of character for us. Eric and I are planners and international trips are always planned at least 6 months in advance (if not a year). We were originally scheduled to visit Switzerland, but after the death of Eric’s mom, Switzerland didn’t feel right. Knowing both of Eric’s parents were born near Osaka, I made a gut decision and we changed our flights and booked a 6-day Kumano Kodo tour with Oku Japan. I added days to explore Kyoto and Wakayama, feeling confident we could find things to do and navigate on our own. Within a month, we found ourselves on a plane to Japan.

woman at Los Angeles airport with luggage waiting for flight to Japan
My face says "not sure what I've gotten us into but it should be fun!"

If planning a trip to Japan last minute (like us), start with Chris Rowthorn’s Japan Itineraries. Everything you need (lodging, transportation logistics, places to eat) can be found on Rowthorn’s websites. If you have more time for planning and want alternative regions outside of Tokyo/Osaka/Kyoto, look at Travel Japan’s Destinations.

1 Night in Osaka

We arrived at Osaka’s Kansai Airport, fully prepared (or so I thought). I knew to buy an ICOCA card for transportation and had figured out how much we’d need for our trip. We knew what train to take for our Osaka hotel but I was not prepared for our transit cards to lock up. These train virgins didn’t realize you can’t double tap the card when going through a gate. But no worries, the helpful staff at the Japan Rail (JR) office just a few feet away helped us out. We had no issues with trains or buses for the rest of our time in Japan.

children's train in Osaka Japan
Trains were one of the highlights of our travel in Japan

Plan your Japan trip around the transit system, which is EXCELLENT! Book your high-speed trains in advance for long-distance routes but give yourself freedom to alter plans for the rest of the trip (this is where prepaid cards become your best friend). Our ICOCA card worked for all trains and buses in the Kansai region except for a few small routes along the Kumano Kodo. We never used a taxi or rideshare.

Our first night in Osaka is a blur (thank you jet lag) but I do remember opening our hotel window for the first time and getting a glimpse of the city skyline at night. There are no words to describe the mix of awe and trepidation I felt in that moment. We were in a sci-fi movie, in a futuristic city so alien from anything we’ve ever seen. I could hear the theme music to Blade Runner pulsing through my head.

Osaka from our hotel window

First Taste of Japanese Cuisine

We splurged for breakfast that morning at the Hotel Monterey Grasmere. They had a small section of western-style breakfast items but the rest of the room consisted of various stations highlighting Japanese cuisine.

breakfast buffet at Osaka Japan's Hotel Monterey Grasmere
This is only a small section of the Grasmere breakfast buffet

Lemongrass, burdock and lotus root in the salad section. Puff pastries stuffed with octopus. Multiple options for fish. Fluffy tamagoyaki (rolled omelets). Tasty sweets such as mochi, matcha pudding and a theatrical donut station that looked more like art than food (think Dylan’s Candy Bar). Totally worth the splurge, it was the best way to quickly introduce us to Japanese cuisine.

breakfast tray showing Japanese cuisine in Osaka
Of course Eric took detailed notes of everything we ate

Besides the lavish breakfast, the Grasmere housed a thatched roof chapel styled as an authentic replica of All Saints Brockhampton in the Cotswolds. It seemed odd at first but makes perfect sense when you consider Japan’s fascination with fairy tales and foreign cultures.

all saints chapel inside Hotel Monterey Grasmere Osaka Japan

1 Night in Nara

After breakfast we took the train to Nara where I booked a night at the Nara Visitor Center, the best deal in town. Excellent service, perfect location and free activities. We were able to leave our luggage both days while we wandered Nara’s historic residential neighborhoods, its bustling Higashimuki shopping street and the wonders of Nara Park.

pond in Nara Japan
Our view of Nara Park from the Nara Visitor Center

The visitor center didn’t serve breakfast, which would have been nice since most places didn’t open until 10:00 or 11:00. If you want an early start, Aka Tombo Coffee offers a simple breakfast set within walking distance, or you can make a breakfast reservation at Nara Hotel (only available Mon-Fri). If you have a chance to try the local breakfast specialty, chagayu (tea porridge), even better! For lunch and dinner there are plenty of budget-friendly options, from aromatic soba or ramen to steamy pork buns, as well as Nara’s famous Nakatanidou mochi (which we never tried because the lines were too long).

people walking Nara Japan's busy Higashimuki shopping district
Higashimuki Street holds all sorts of delights, from food to artisan crafts & bookshops

We settled for Starbucks since we needed coffee that was quick and available before 10:00, which made me sad because Nara has several excellent cafes.

central gate in Nara Park Japan
Great South Gate in Nara Park

Nara Park

Nara is a popular day tour for people visiting Kyoto or Osaka, but we came here to walk all of Nara Park so I knew we’d need 2 days. Looking back, I should have added a 2nd night because you really need 3 days to properly explore Nara.

Walk to Kasuga Taisha Shrine in Nara

We managed to walk almost every path through Nara Park and visit the Kohfukuji National Treasure Hall, which houses the Ashura statue (famous in Japan) as well as several impressive Kongorikishi wood carvings.

statue guardian at Great South Gate in Nara Japan
One of 2 Kongō Rikishi (guardian kings) at Nandai-mon (Great South Gate) in Nara

Nara was once the capital of Japan, before Kyoto and Tokyo, so there is a rich history here to discover. We felt lucky to see a Shinto Kagura (sacred dance) being performed by who I assume were miko (shrine maidens) at the Himurojinja. All of the shrines were unique but this one was especially fascinating. Dedicated to an ice deity, there were blocks of ice with sheets of blank paper that when placed on the ice revealed your fortune.

Sacred dance being performed at Himuro Jinja Shrine in Nara

Nara was our first exposure to Japanese temples (Buddhist) and shrines (Shinto) and it was the perfect place for such an introduction. At some point all of the original temples were destroyed by fire (that tends to happen when you combine wood buildings with fire ceremonies), but the reconstructions are equally as beautiful and hundreds of years old. My personal favorite was Nigatsu-dō Hall with its stunning location and elaborate woodwork.

Nigatsu-dō shrine in Nara Japan with large paper lanterns
Nigatsu-dō Hall, originally constructed 760-820 and rebuilt in 1669

Aside from the stunning architecture and ancient history, Nara Park was simply a lovely walk and we could happily have spent a week ambling through its ancient forests. There were wide open lawns, secluded ponds surrounded by plum trees and ethereal forest lined with moss covered lanterns.

Nara is also famous for its deer, which roam the town freely. This sounds lovely in theory, but in reality it’s annoying. We ignored the deer but were thoroughly entertained watching people feed them rice crackers which they purchased from street vendors. I should be ashamed of admitting to some fleeting joy at watching them get attacked by the greedy deer, but it was just too funny. I saw one poor woman with a cane running away while deer chased her – I did feel empathy for her.

woman selling rice crackers to feed Nara deer in Japan
Roasted sweet potato vendor in Nara Park

Nara deer are revered as protectors, but I guess they are protectors of the gods, not the humans. One thing that is certainly true, if you bow to the deer, they bow back. I had read this in several blogs but didn’t believe it until I witnessed it with my own eyes.

Deer and plum trees in Nara Park

If you visit Nara on Saturday or Sunday, walk to the Manyo Botanical Garden area before 10:00 to witness the Shika Yose (calling of the deer), when someone gathers deer by playing Beethoven’s 6th Symphony on french horn.

We equally loved walking the neighborhoods of Nara

Keep reading as we Explore Kyoto the Slow Way, including a lovely river town that you won’t find in most pre-packaged tours. Plus, our 6 days walking the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail. Serious about planning a trip to Kyoto? Read Exploring Kyoto & Beyond: The Ultimate Walking Tour Guide.

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