A 45-day journey Begins
After last year’s adventure in Newfoundland, Eric and I are back on the road – this time heading west to explore Vancouver Island and British Columbia’s southwest. Our route takes us through unexplored territory: Idaho, Wyoming and South Dakota. But as with any epic journey, plans have a way of changing.
Austin: A Bittersweet Reunion
Our first stop brings us to Eric’s aunt and uncle in Austin. Jon and Trudy are those rare souls who make everyone feel at home. We haven’t seen them since Eric’s mom passed in December, and it feels healing to reconnect and laugh again. The evening brings Harry Potter at the Alamo Drafthouse (complete with toy rats and tattoos), followed by a comical run-in with local law enforcement reminding Trudy to turn on her headlights when driving at night. The Austin clan joins us for our final night of wine, stories and laughter.
Through the Desert to Santa Fe
The dusty expanse of northwest Texas and New Mexico stretches before us. While some find beauty in deserts, I’m counting the miles to our oasis: Santa Fe. Eric discovers cookbook heaven at Kitchenality, a used kitchen shop supporting meals for the homebound, and we enjoy a fabulous lunch at Clafoutis before heading to my aunt and uncle’s for the night.
A visit with my aunt reveals unexpected parallels between her and Mom. From the outside view, they seem to have nothing in common and have certainly led very different lives. But they are both fiercely independent, love music and history, have a rebellious streak lurking behind their southern charm, and have always had a global perspective. All traits they share with their mother. After an afternoon of aperitifs in the courtyard and an excellent dinner at Arroyo Vino, we talk politics until the men retreat to bed. My aunt is as sharp-witted and classy as ever, she would have made an excellent politician.
Colorado's Mountain Magic
The drive to Colorado brings wildlife encounters – a near-miss with a prairie dog and a brown bear sighting near Pagosa Springs. This spa town, with its riverside trails and hot springs, deserves a return visit in the quiet pre-ski season.
Trip Inspo: The San Juan Skyway loop through southern Colorado connects Durango, Silverton, Ouray, Ridgway, Telluride, Dolores and Cortez. While doable in 7 hours, these towns deserve deeper exploration.
The San Juan Mountains take our breath away – literally. At 11,000 feet, Red Mountain Pass tests our altitude tolerance, but the spectacular views at Idarado Mine and Molas Pass make the headache worthwhile. Forests of aspen give way to rainbow-colored mountainsides, culminating in the stunning valley town of Ouray. Despite the crowds, it’s earned a spot on our “must return” list.
Walking the dusty roads of historic Silverton reminds us that much of America is still very much the Wild West. Silverton hosts the annual skijoring event, when horses pull skiers through the streets and insanity ensues.
We spend a night at an Airbnb room in Montrose and enjoy a wonderful visit with our host, Joey. Eric warms our dinner in her kitchen as we swap stories. Her husband is a talented landscape photographer, specializing in dark sky photography, and his artwork decorates the walls of their home. She and I are the same age and she wants to know how we’re able to travel for such a long time. So we tell her, and thus ensues a lengthy conversation about turning dreams into a reality.
Staying at an Airbnb hosted by avid hikers is always fun, especially when they provide a wall of maps and hiking guides!
Idaho Bound
Smoke from Idaho forest fires forces us to abandon our plans to hike in the Sawtooth Mountains, redirecting us through Utah, southeastern Idaho and Montana. Anticipating a long, dry, boring driving through Utah, Eric finds an oasis in the desert. We try dried watermelon and canary melons for the first time at Dunham Melons, a roadside stand in Green River.
We spend a night in the tiny town of Malad City, Idaho (excellent pizza and ice cream to be had there!).
It’s a long day of driving through smoke-filled skies, but we get glimpses of beautiful landscapes as we pass Montana’s Beaverhead-Deerlodge National Forest and the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness. Skies clear just as we arrive into Coeur d’Alene.
Rain accompanies our entire stay in Coeur d’Alene, but we make the most of it with walks through historic neighborhoods along the lake and thrift store shopping. Eric’s cookbook collection grows suspiciously larger – perhaps it’s time to open a culinary lending library.
We like the vibe here, unpretentious and youthful. It feels like a small town but it boasts good restaurants, health food markets and plenty of outdoor activities. I’d move here just for the hand pies at Bean & Pie!
Next up: Our journey continues through British Columbia, where lakes, mountains and unexpected discoveries await.
