“When I’m driving the highway by myself is when I write best” ~ Willie Nelson
We went to the Faroe Islands to hike, but the scenic drives just kept beckoning us, especially on the island of Streymoy. As the largest island in the Faroes, Streymoy had plenty of roads to explore with charming villages along the route. In my previous post, I shared our experiences in Streymoy’s southern region. This post will take us through the rest of that island, from sleepy little beaches to remote villages with friendly waffle makers.
Our drive began from Tórshavn, where we stayed at an AirBnB for four nights. This route took us through the northern suburb of Hoyvík, home of the National Museum of the Faroe Islands. I regret that we didn’t visit that museum, as I found out later they had Viking boats and a walking trail that connects to a centuries old farm. We did take photos of the farm, which could be seen from a viewpoint just off the road between Tórshavn and Hoyvík.
Passing Hoyvík, we drove past grass roofed churches and fjord fishing villages. We passed through Hósvík, a water paradise with waterfalls in the back yard and a fjord in its front. Streymnes was equally bucolic, with its lovely creek trickling through the town. Either of these villages would make an excellent place to stay, if you can find lodging with a kitchen. Dining options were nil in this area, except for a lone pizza pick-up and a grocery store across the bridge in Oyrarbakki.
Hosvik
Hvalvik
Streymnes
From Streymnes, we took the buttercup route to the old village of Saksun. We experienced “speed photography” as it was a one-way road with quite a few cars. There were plenty of turnouts, so it was a relaxing drive, but we couldn’t get out of the car to take photos when there were others around. But you’ll hear no complaints from me, because it was truly one of the prettiest drives on Streymoy.
Saksun is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the Faroes, and having visited it I can see why. It was surrounded by hills, forming a natural amphitheater, with a narrow tidal lagoon opening up a very unexpected beach at the base of the village. The Saksun church was built in 1858 and had a tranquil cemetery. In stark contrast to this serene setting were barb-wired fences with signs saying…
The “Saksun farmer,” as named by the locals, is notorious in the Faroes. When Instagram hungry photographers started trampling his property to get the perfect shot of his house, he began posting these signs and fences. This was the only place in the Faroes that we witnessed tension between local property owners and tourists — which is truly ironic, since according to the locals he was the person responsible for propelling tourism in the Faroes! There are several articles about him online, but THIS ARTICLE is one of my personal favorites.
Saksun to Tjornuvik Trail
There was a hike from Saksun to Tjørnuvík that looked amazing, but we were enjoying seeing the beautiful landscapes in comfort, so we hopped in the car and drove there instead. And oh my, was that an epic drive! Eric and I were commenting on how passive the sheep seemed. We had read that most accidents in the Faroes were caused by vehicle/sheep collisions, but so far we hadn’t seen any in the road. As fate would have it, that was the moment when a lamb leaped off the cliff directly in front of our windshield. Eric slammed on the brakes, our eyes met, and there was a long moment of silence. Glaring at the amygdala damaged sheep who had somehow managed to escape death, I couldn’t help but break out singing “two lambs a leaping.” 
The drive to Tjørnuvík took us past the lovely village of Haldórsvik and Fossa Falls. 
And then we arrived at Tjørnuvík, the northernmost village on Streymoy — famous for its choir, resident waffle man, and surfer-friendly beach. We didn’t get to hear the choir singing their traditional Kingo hymns, but we DID get to chat with one of its singers — who also happened to be Hans Esbern Heinesen (aka The Waffle Man). Mr. Heinesen served us cardamom infused waffles with fresh cream, rhubarb sauce and coffee. He struck me as a gentle soul who loves making people happy, and I was honored when he offered to let me take a photo of him.
For a brief article about Mr. Heinesen on the Apart Project’s website, click HERE.
Tjørnuvík may have been the beach that everyone flocked to that sunny day, but we actually preferred the beach at Leynar. Leynar was never mentioned when I was researching for this trip, but it was one of our favorite spots in all the Faroes. It was a tiny hamlet with a large beach, strategically located next to the Vágar-Streymoy tunnel and en route to Vestmanna. The buildings looked like summer rentals, and I would have gladly stayed there had we known about it. We watched as a family laid out blankets for a picnic while their young children swam in the arctic water. Another hidden gem on the way to Vestmanna was the observation point looking down at the village of Kvívík. It was simply stunning!
Leynar
Leynar
Leynar
Leynar
Leynar
Leynar
Leynar
Leynar
Kvivik
Our exploration of Streymoy concluded with a boat excursion from Vestmanna. The boat ride took about two hours and took us down the waterway separating Vágar and Streymoy, past salmon ponds and birdcliffs, and ending with closeup views of Trøllkonufingur (the Witch’s Finger).
If you want a spot on the outside top of the boat, you’d best board early. Despite the cold and wind, those are the popular seats for photo taking.
Trøllkonufingur
Trøllkonufingur
Stay tuned for more as we visit the northern islands of Viðoy, Kunoy and Bordoy.
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