Pastries Nearly Killed the Budget…and Me

No matter how much time I spend planning & budgeting, our trips always seem to wander off track, which I’m totally fine with because it matches our travel style.  Our recent trip to Germany & Austria, however, was a unique divergence…we blew our budget on PASTRIES!

For those who know my eating habits, you know that I try to limit my daily sugar intake. I do this because sugar is a guaranteed inflammatory for my Rheumatoid Arthritis — too much nectar of the Gods & my hands swell & my veins start throbbing. But I ADORE pastries & because I deny myself of their pleasure so often, when I found myself in a region that has patisseries & confiseries on every block…I was toast! Eric loves sweets even more than me, so my accountability partner was no help this time.

Ok, now that I’ve cleansed my soul with confession, let’s switch gears & I’ll discuss our actual budget for this trip. As with any trip, dining out is where you can really overspend. I knew breakfast was included in our lodging fees & based on past trips I assumed we’d eat light cheap lunches, leaving us room to splurge for dinner. I didn’t take into account the fact that we’d be ordering coffee & pastries every day (sometimes twice in one day) or that water would cost so much.

For a region surrounded by pristine lakes & rivers, how is it that water is never free & often costs the same or more than beer? Now I know why Germans drink so much beer — it’s cheaper! It’s also very accessible, as you can buy beer from vending machines in public parks.

Cost-saving tips for food in Germany

  • Find the ethnic food restaurants & food trucks — they’re often cheaper.
  • Pay attention to portion sizes. Most of the German restaurants we frequented had huge portions & we could have easily shared one entree.
  • Bring a water bottle or hydration pack (like we did) that you can refill & look for signs that say trinkwasser, which means the water is safe to drink.
  • Stay away from tourist traps. Our biggest dining mistake was in Munich, when we spent $78 for food that wasn’t that great. But, it was Sunday, it was raining, I was hurting, & it was the closest restaurant that had a nice website & was popular with tourists.

This restaurant’s only redeeming factor was that it gave us a memorable experience: A man walked in selling newspapers & was allowed to do so, which we thought odd, but when we realized it was a publication promoting erotica, we REALLY thought it bizarre!

I had budgeted a total of $4100 for our 14-day trip. Our actual expenses were $4646. Here’s where our money went:

  • Lodging: $2035 (included breakfast every morning & 5 dinners)
  • Transportation: $1518 (included flights, airport parking & public transit)
  • Food: $901 (original budget was $560)
  • Tickets: $192 (included castle passes to Neuschwanstein & Hohenschwangau, Salzburg Cards & Dachstein Cable Car)

Eric doesn’t like to drive in an unfamiliar country & he misses so much when he’s driving, so we opted to use public transit the entire trip. Germany & Austria have excellent train systems, so it was quite easy & comfortable to get around. I did my research beforehand & that helped, especially in explaining what types of tickets to purchase & how to plan itineraries that were close to transportation stations.

When purchasing tickets from a kiosk in Austria, make sure to look at the screen and note the location and times before you hit print as tickets do not show this information. This is especially important in a large train station where you’re not sure what platform to wait at. We made this mistake in Salzburg and nearly missed our bus because we didn’t know where to wait for it.

Buses could be a little tricky, but when we asked for help or relied on the transit schedules they never steered us wrong. Trains were the easiest because all we had to do was know our final destination & what direction we needed to go in, much like a subway system in any large city. Trains that crossed borders or stopped at airports usually had an English announcer as well as German, but most of the German words were easy to discern anyway (like “nachster halt” in Austria and “nexta statione” which meant “next stop”). The English narrator on our trains sounded just like Jim Dale & we learned to pay attention when we heard his voice, because it always meant something important …such as the train will divide in half & you have x minutes to move to the front.

Some other tidbits we noticed about the German trains: they don’t always check tickets but you need to have them close at hand & passports just in case. Also, water closets on trains were free but cost .50 cents in stations — definitely need to keep change in your pocket for WC emergencies.

woman inserting coin to pay at German toilet

Relying on trains meant we had to travel light, so Eric & I fit everything for 2 weeks into our Kelty backpacks, a very small Camelbak, & an Osprey bag. Everything we needed fit easily & I never felt discomfort carrying the large pack (as long as I had the hip straps fastened).

Eric's packs

All said & done, I was very happy with our experience & what we paid for it. For future trips, I’ll look into the following options to save money & increase our enjoyment:

  • Stay at fewer locations & opt for a kitchen — we would save money by not dining out every night & Eric would enjoy the opportunity to cook new foods & utilize fresh markets.
  • Don’t assume trains are always cheapest — look at ride share options and Ubers.
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A Tale of Two Towns

Our last full day in Obertraun began with lots of rain, so hiking was out of the question. Lucky for us, there were lovely towns all around us for the picking & at our innkeeper’s suggestion we visited Bad Ischl & Bad Goisern.

green iron bridge over river in Bad Ischl Austria
Bad Ischl

In German, bad means bath so if you see it before a town name it’s safe to assume it’s a spa town & will either have hot springs or mineral water lakes nearby. In other words, you should visit.

tree lined river walk in Bad Ischl Austrai

Bad Ischl was the largest town in the region. It was only a 30min train ride from Obertraun & SOOO worth the trip! The Traun River meandered beautifully through town & there were several good shopping options. We tried our first Berliner (German version of a donut filled with fruit jam or chocolate & dusted with powdered sugar). Mmmmm…

woman eating a Berliner donut in Austria

We really shouldn’t have eaten the Berliner because we had been informed that we MUST eat at Cafe Zauner & we MUST order pastries there. So of course we did & GREAT JEHOSHAPHAT that place was a dessert lover’s paradise!  We walked in, picked out our decadence of choice then sat down in luxury. I felt like an aristocrat, despite my hiking boots & dripping raincoat.

If you visit Cafe Zauner, please note that you pick out your dessert first, they give you a ticket, you pick out your own table, then a waiter brings your dessert and takes the rest of your order. In case you missed that…you order dessert FIRST! #LOVETHISPLACE

Bad Goisern

After gorging ourselves on pastries, we hopped on the train heading back towards Obertraun & stopped at Bad Goisern along the way. Bad Goisern was smaller than Bad Ischl, with a meandering river running through the town & gorgeous mountain views all around. If we ever visit this region again, we’d consider staying here because it had good shopping & dining but never felt touristy. We went specifically for their Hand Werk Haus, a shop for local artisans that also had a little museum. I splurged on a beautiful hand-sewn jacket.

One last image to leave you with: both towns had little free libraries in old phone booths. LOVED it!

red phonebooth library in Austria
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Gosausee…See it to Believe it

woman standing next to an alpine lake in Austria

There are some places that just have to be seen in person to be believed. Gosausee Austria is one of them.

Day 6 of our two week sojourn in Austria & Germany gave us one of the prettiest hikes we’ve experienced so far. Having spent the previous day on an easy hike & lounging around, we were ready for something a little more challenging (but not TOO challenging as I wasn’t sure how my knee would hold up). Our innkeeper Larry swore that Gosausee was one of the prettiest hikes in the region, with a breathtaking view at the midpoint of the loop.

Trusting Larry’s sage advice, we sprinted downhill to catch the “5 past 9 bus.” Larry told us everything we’d need to know about what bus to take & when to hop off & get on another one, so it was fairly easy. What took us by surprise was that we were the only non-Chinese people on the bus. Seeing that one of the couples was staying at the same inn as us, we attempted a stilted conversation & that’s how we found out that it was a national Chinese 10-day holiday. The nearby town of Hallstatt is a Unesco World Heritage site, so it’s very attractive to Chinese tourists who like to check off that “I’ve been here” list. Hence why we heard more Mandarin that day than German.

car driving narrow road around Gosausee Austria

The bus dropped us off at Gosausee, the lake region just south of Gosau, & THIS was the first view we had…

people standing by Gosausee Lake Austria

I promise I didn’t Photoshop this image in any way, the sky & water were really that clear. And that’s just the viewpoint! The natural beauty just got better & better as we began the 7.5mi loop around two lakes. Crystal clear water to our left, towering mountains ahead & to our right, with glimpses of pristine forest in between…wow! It reminded me of the Cascades region of Washington, only with more layers & quirky tidbits such as death plaques & drinking troughs.

Happily frolicking past lake, meadow & forest, Eric & I thought it was a cakewalk of a hike until we rounded the first lake & began a slowly misleading trek upward. By the time we realized how steep the climb would be, we were silently cursing Larry for saying “it’s just a wee steep”…until we reached the second lake & saw this…

alpine lake Gosausee Austria

THIS view was why Larry told us to take that hike, & I promise you that the photo doesn’t do it justice. A photo simply cannot capture the 360 view all around you. It can’t relay the sounds, & the smell, & the feel of crisp autumn air.

mountains with snow at Gosausee Austria

Eric & I stopped there for awhile, just sitting in silence & munching on trail snacks. The walk back around the opposite side of the first lake was just as pretty & I was disappointed to see the trail end.

woman hiking Gosausee Austria with fall leaves

Since we still had plenty of daylight left & my knee was cooperating, we decided to stop in Hallstatt on our way back to the inn. Had we listened to our innkeeper, we could have taken a different bus route & gotten there quicker…but we’re not always the sharpest tools in the shed…so we took the very first bus that came along & ended up waiting for 45min at a transitional stop. Which was fine in retrospect, because it afforded us the opportunity to watch a group of school kids hop off the bus to pee in the woods AND to observe a bus driver patiently wait for a very old Chinese man to stop & take a toilet break as well. Our faith in Austrian bus drivers was redeemed that day.

Hallstatt was gorgeous & one of the most unique places we’ve visited. The town was small (you could walk it in less than 30min) & it was built in layers, sandwiched between hills & a lake. Some of the buildings were built into the rock wall & there was a funicular (cable car) that took people up the mountain to the salt mines (which were the heart & wealth of this area for centuries). We enjoyed pastries at Maislinger Backerei & Konditorei, where the poor worker got stung by a bee while reaching for my strudel, informed us she was allergic, stopped to take medicine while we watched her finger swell, then promptly returned to her customers.

Maislinger backerei & konditorei in Hallstatt Austria

Have I mentioned that bees were in every pastry shop we went to in Austria & Germany? Or that my husband is deathly allergic to bees/wasps/hornets & carries an Epi pen with him at all times? He couldn’t BELIEVE someone would work in one of those bakeries with an allergy like that. Ahhhhh…for the love of pastries.

church and buildings of Hallstatt Austria

With more time, we would have toured the salt mine & walked what is supposedly a very pretty loop trail from the salt mines that takes you past waterfalls & great views of the valley below. But alas, the sun was setting & quite honestly, I was tired of the hundreds of tourists constantly fashion posing & poking me with their selfie sticks. Plus, we had to get back for dinner at 7pm…couldn’t miss one of Larry’s glorious dinners! Our plan was to take a boat across the lake, but we missed the last one & didn’t want to wait for a bus. So, we walked the 3mi around the lake, through the little village of Winkl, & on to Haus Hepi…with exactly 30min to spare before dinner.

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