Pastries Nearly Killed the Budget…and Me

No matter how much time I spend planning & budgeting, our trips always seem to wander off track, which I’m totally fine with because it matches our travel style.  Our recent trip to Germany & Austria, however, was a unique divergence…we blew our budget on PASTRIES!

For those who know my eating habits, you know that I try to limit my daily sugar intake. I do this because sugar is a guaranteed inflammatory for my Rheumatoid Arthritis — too much nectar of the Gods & my hands swell & my veins start throbbing. But I ADORE pastries & because I deny myself of their pleasure so often, when I found myself in a region that has patisseries & confiseries on every block…I was toast! Eric loves sweets even more than me, so my accountability partner was no help this time.

Ok, now that I’ve cleansed my soul with confession, let’s switch gears & I’ll discuss our actual budget for this trip. As with any trip, dining out is where you can really overspend. I knew breakfast was included in our lodging fees & based on past trips I assumed we’d eat light cheap lunches, leaving us room to splurge for dinner. I didn’t take into account the fact that we’d be ordering coffee & pastries every day (sometimes twice in one day) or that water would cost so much.

For a region surrounded by pristine lakes & rivers, how is it that water is never free & often costs the same or more than beer? Now I know why Germans drink so much beer — it’s cheaper! It’s also very accessible, as you can buy beer from vending machines in public parks.

Cost-saving tips for food in Germany

  • Find the ethnic food restaurants & food trucks — they’re often cheaper.
  • Pay attention to portion sizes. Most of the German restaurants we frequented had huge portions & we could have easily shared one entree.
  • Bring a water bottle or hydration pack (like we did) that you can refill & look for signs that say trinkwasser, which means the water is safe to drink.
  • Stay away from tourist traps. Our biggest dining mistake was in Munich, when we spent $78 for food that wasn’t that great. But, it was Sunday, it was raining, I was hurting, & it was the closest restaurant that had a nice website & was popular with tourists.

This restaurant’s only redeeming factor was that it gave us a memorable experience: A man walked in selling newspapers & was allowed to do so, which we thought odd, but when we realized it was a publication promoting erotica, we REALLY thought it bizarre!

I had budgeted a total of $4100 for our 14-day trip. Our actual expenses were $4646. Here’s where our money went:

  • Lodging: $2035 (included breakfast every morning & 5 dinners)
  • Transportation: $1518 (included flights, airport parking & public transit)
  • Food: $901 (original budget was $560)
  • Tickets: $192 (included castle passes to Neuschwanstein & Hohenschwangau, Salzburg Cards & Dachstein Cable Car)

Eric doesn’t like to drive in an unfamiliar country & he misses so much when he’s driving, so we opted to use public transit the entire trip. Germany & Austria have excellent train systems, so it was quite easy & comfortable to get around. I did my research beforehand & that helped, especially in explaining what types of tickets to purchase & how to plan itineraries that were close to transportation stations.

When purchasing tickets from a kiosk in Austria, make sure to look at the screen and note the location and times before you hit print as tickets do not show this information. This is especially important in a large train station where you’re not sure what platform to wait at. We made this mistake in Salzburg and nearly missed our bus because we didn’t know where to wait for it.

Buses could be a little tricky, but when we asked for help or relied on the transit schedules they never steered us wrong. Trains were the easiest because all we had to do was know our final destination & what direction we needed to go in, much like a subway system in any large city. Trains that crossed borders or stopped at airports usually had an English announcer as well as German, but most of the German words were easy to discern anyway (like “nachster halt” in Austria and “nexta statione” which meant “next stop”). The English narrator on our trains sounded just like Jim Dale & we learned to pay attention when we heard his voice, because it always meant something important …such as the train will divide in half & you have x minutes to move to the front.

Some other tidbits we noticed about the German trains: they don’t always check tickets but you need to have them close at hand & passports just in case. Also, water closets on trains were free but cost .50 cents in stations — definitely need to keep change in your pocket for WC emergencies.

woman inserting coin to pay at German toilet

Relying on trains meant we had to travel light, so Eric & I fit everything for 2 weeks into our Kelty backpacks, a very small Camelbak, & an Osprey bag. Everything we needed fit easily & I never felt discomfort carrying the large pack (as long as I had the hip straps fastened).

Eric's packs

All said & done, I was very happy with our experience & what we paid for it. For future trips, I’ll look into the following options to save money & increase our enjoyment:

  • Stay at fewer locations & opt for a kitchen — we would save money by not dining out every night & Eric would enjoy the opportunity to cook new foods & utilize fresh markets.
  • Don’t assume trains are always cheapest — look at ride share options and Ubers.
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Freising Germany, a Hidden Gem

Freising Germany

I love it when a destination completely surprises me, which is a rare occasion because I tend to research to death every place I visit.

So imagine how happy I was to discover the sleepy town of Freising, Germany, which I picked as our last night for our 14-day Austria/Germany sojourn simply due to its proximity to the Munich airport. I didn’t know anything about the town, other than that it had a brewery [Big deal, right? They seem to be everywhere in Germany] and that I got a decent price for a hotel within walking distance to the train.

man market shopping in Freising Germany

After two nights in the heart of Munich & 13 days of travel, we were ready for something quiet. We took the train to Freising which took about 40min. We stayed at Hotel Bayerischer Hof, a half mile walk from the train station, & we were both impressed before we even walked inside the lobby. The location was excellent (shops, grocery store & dining all around) & the exterior was very pretty. Inside was even more impressive — great balance of cozy antique elegance with modern amenities. And apparently lady luck smiled upon us that day, because we were upgraded to a suite, which had a walk-in closet! Not that these minimalist vagabonds NEEDED an insanely large closet, but I still felt special.

This marriage of old & new perfectly sums up Freising. It is a town that seems to have found its proper balance, seeking progress without losing its charm.

Freising is one of the oldest cities in Bavaria. It was established in the 8th century & was the religious & cultural center for Upper Bavaria. This was a place of power for the bishops & a place for scholars & skilled artisans. Today’s city maintains that feel, with beautiful architecture & a small but thriving university campus.

town of Freising Germany viewed from above

The first thing we noticed when we stepped off the train was how alive the town felt & that it was residents we were seeing, not tourists. The central part of town was under construction but still bustling. School kids were walking around eating döners & ice cream. There was a small outdoor market next to our hotel, which was perfect for a quick healthy lunch. We enjoyed some delicious vegan food at Chakula’s food truck — friendly owner & great street food! We fell in LOVE with the pastries & chocolates at Andreas Muschler, the marvelous Thai/Vietnamese food at Lucki’s, & the decadent ice cream at Da Sandro’s. Who would have thought this sleepy town of 45,000 would have such wonderful dining?

Thai food on plate

Freising was more than just great food & quaint streets — it was a beautiful place to walk! We followed Weihenstephaner Fußweg (yeah, it’s a mouthful) uphill to the Weihenstephan Brewery, considered to be the oldest brewery in the world & began as a Benedictine monastery. Brewing in Freising began as early as 825 & by the 18th century they had 18 breweries (& only 3000 residents). No wonder why it seems such a laid-back happy city! The University at Weihenstephan now surrounds the brewery, with students studying horticulture, brewing, & much more. We walked through gardens maintained by the students & local residents, observing students walking around with fresh beer in hand. There was a cozy student library hidden in the trees with the best viewpoint I’ve ever seen for a library. Wooded pathways wrapped around the hill with steps leading to hidden alcoves & abandoned buildings. I couldn’t bend my knees that day, so Eric took the steep paths & took pictures for me.

forest path with brick wall in Freising Germany

Another brewery remains on the opposite side of town on Cathedral Hill (Hofbrauhaus Freising), which also provides a lovely walk uphill. And if you want more forest walks, drive north of town to Plantage Restaurant & Biergarten where the Forest Adventure Trail begins (1.2 mi nature trail with info points & a maze). For a really nice circular route around Freising, click here.

If you’re flying in or out of Munich’s International Airport, Freising is the place to stay! Just one word of advice: take the train to the airport, even if your hotel offers a shuttle. We took the shuttle but traffic was hectic & it took much longer than expected. Trains are more reliable when time is of the essence.

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Munich: City of Bells

gothic styles buildings in Munich Germany

Munich is a city of church bells. You can hear them every hour, ringing from every direction, their different tones blending harmoniously with each other.

And if you’re there on trash day, you can also hear the early morning clanking of thousands of beer bottles being dumped into trucks. This of course pairs nicely with the drunk tourists reveling in the streets, pretending they can keep up with the Germans who were weaned on hops.

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