Our plans for Cape Breton were to spend two weeks hiking as many trails as possible. One week on the western shore in Chéticamp and one on the eastern shore in Ingonish. Then we would move to Sydney for a few days to explore Bras d’Or Lake and Goat Island. This would have allowed us to experience the three prominent cultures of Cape Breton: Acadian, Gaelic and Mi’kmaw. Of course the nature of plans is that they always change.
“Weather is predictably unpredictable in Cape Breton” says everyone who visits or lives here.
We got lucky for our first week in Chéticamp. Our scenic drive from Prince Edward Island through New Brunswick was a gorgeous sunny day and we were rewarded with a beautiful sunset that evening from our Airbnb on the Cabot Trail.
Hiking Skyline Trail without crowds
We chose Skyline Trail for our first day of hiking because it was raining, which meant we would most likely be the only ones on the trail. By the time we reached the boarded staircase for which this trail is famous, the skies had cleared and we were blessed with some amazing views.
We continued on the longer loop trail which is a quiet walk with coastal views and lots of moose scat. This part of the trail didn’t have the exciting lookout of the shorter Skyline section but the terrain was interesting as it changed from short scruffy trees to flat savannah. I was most fascinated by the large fenced area that looked like something from Jurassic Park, only this fence was meant to keep out moose instead of dinosaurs. Alas, no moose sightings.
Hiking MacIntosh Falls, easy add-on
Having finished Skyline before lunch we had time to hike MacIntosh Falls, an easy walk that follows a river until you reach the waterfall. We only saw one other person on this trail and we learned that any trail in Cape Breton that says “water” means it’s going to be a beautiful walk.
Hiking Blueberry Mountain, twice
Our second day of hiking began with snow on the ground, followed by sun and then fog so thick you could bathe in it. The waitress at L’abri Cafe had recommended we hike Blueberry Mountain, a local favorite that’s in the park but no longer listed as an official trail. We knew we’d have some streams to cross but didn’t realize one of those would be so fast moving, forcing us off trail in order to cross more safely.
Blueberry Mountain was my favorite trail in the park, and I should know because we hiked it twice. Maybe it was the fog or the challenging terrain, but this trail felt like we’d stepped onto another planet in which we were the only inhabitants. It’s a tough trail that ascends the entire time with rocky terrain but once you reach the top the world opens up into fields of gnarly trees and alpine flora.
The thick fog meant we couldn’t see the mountains all around but it allowed my imagination to fill in the blank canvas. Fresh moose scat was everywhere so I know they were close, watching us behind their invisibility cloaks that I’m convinced they all have. My preoccupation is probably why I dropped something on the trail and didn’t realize it until we had hiked half way back down the mountain.
Can you guess what it was?
Yes, the one thing I will not hike without — my trusted pee funnel. This simple device offers liberation for all female hikers, allowing us to pee like a man and never have to worry about baring our nethers to poisened plants or freezing cold temps. With another month left ahead of us to hike, there was no question that we’d be hiking back up to find it and thankfully we did…all the way at the top.
Corney Brook all to ourselves
After Blueberry we hopped on the Corney Brook Trail, which was a little steeper than the MacIntosh Falls but well worth it for the constant flowing water throughout the trail and the pretty waterfall at the end.
The trailhead for Corney Brook was across from a small campground with the best ocean views in the park. We walked the beach here, had lunch and enjoyed the perks of off-season travel when no one else is around.
Acadian Trail, full of surprises
Acadian Trail was Eric’s favorite and it’s a popular one, partly because the trailhead begins at the park’s visitor center but also because the terrain is so diverse. The first half is full of viewpoints overlooking the ocean and mountains.
At the top, Acadian transitions into a flat terrain where trees are scraggly due to hungry moose. It’s also where we encountered two snakes, which totally freaked me out.
It ends with over a mile of trail that descends down along a flowing stream. Eric loves trails where he can hear the water and the trail is wide and clear of brush. This was one of the few trails in Cape Breton that had a tall forest, which we both appreciated.
Then it all goes up in flames
Continue reading Cape Breton beyond the Trails for part 2 of this trip, when nothing happens according to plan and yet everything works out for the best.
