Young, Scrappy and Hungry

I’m just like my country / I’m young, scrappy and hungry / And I’m not throwing away my shot! — Hamilton (Original Broadway Cast Recording)

Eric and I just returned from a quick trip to Chicago where we were lucky enough to see the Broadway production Hamilton. I’d been dreaming about seeing it since I first heard the lyrics and pretty much memorized the entire album by the time we arrived in Chicago. With these lyrics in my head, our experiences in Chicago took on a whole new meaning and reminded me why I love our country so much and why we must fight against the forces that constantly seek to tear us apart.

Before the show we took a food tour with Rebecca Wheeler, a local cooking instructor and self-taught chef. Rebecca’s Chicago Food Walks took us through the Devon neighborhood north of Chicago, which was almost exclusively Indian and Pakistani. Eric and I had never paid for a guided tour but the idea of having someone introduce us to an unfamiliar cuisine and culture sounded very appealing. Rebecca was AMAZING! From the moment we met her it felt like we were visiting a friend in the city. She spent just as much time listening as she did speaking, catering the tour to our interests. She was full of knowledge about the cuisine, showed great rapport with the local merchants and I especially loved that she inserted history into the mix. I could see how much she respects the people and neighborhoods that she tours. I never felt like we were separate observers, ogling at some exotic culture. I felt like we were guests being invited into someone’s home.

Devon Avenue
My favorite stops along the tour were Sukhadia’s and Kamdar Plaza. At Sukhadia’s we sampled various sweets and watched them make masala dosa. At Kamdar I fell in love with bhel puri and enjoyed visiting with their friendly staff. We made several other stops and ended with a leisurely lunch at Khan BBQ where we were invited into the kitchen to see how naan is made. Rebecca emailed us a detailed list of where we went, what we ate, recommended cookbooks and spices, Indian/Pakistani restaurants in the area and recipes. If you love food, culture and meeting new people then her tours are well worth the money!
Kamdar Plaza

Immigrants, we get the job done. — Hamilton Broadway

Experiencing a thriving immigrant community in one of our country’s grandest cities was the perfect activity to precede a show like Hamilton, which tells the story of Alexander Hamilton, an immigrant who through his own grit and talent became one of our country’s founding fathers. Inspired by the biography by Ron Chernow, this musical was written by Lin-Manuel Miranda who is the living embodiment of America. Miranda comes from an interracial family and is a 2nd generation immigrant whose brilliance is beyond comprehension. I’ve been calling Miranda “the Shakespeare of our time” because of his brilliant wordplay, but I think that’s a discredit to him — he has more heart and depth than The Bard. Listen to the Hamilton soundtrack and you’ll hear it. You’ll hear the good, the bad and the messy in-between of our country. You’ll hear the past and realize it’s still our present. Look at the performers on stage and you’ll see the power of diversity and the beauty of colors in every shade. You’ll see the sold-out crowds and be reminded that there is still a majority in our country who celebrate our kaleidoscope and who welcome immigrants with open arms.

When the presidential election results were announced last year, I became scared about what that said of our nation. I realized just how naive I was in thinking that the hate and fear I saw on TV resided only with a minority. Saturday Night Live nailed it when they did some skits showing white Americans freaking out when they realized that racism still exists in our country. We knew it existed but I don’t think we realized (or wished to admit) that it was so prevalent (especially in those who we had chosen to lead us).

History has its eyes on you. — Hamilton Broadway

Combine this with the mass shootings, racially charged violence between black men and police and the fear mongering directed at refugees and immigrants and one can easily see why I would begin to doubt my country. But in comes Hamilton and my faith begins to slowly be restored. I listen to the lyrics and am reminded that our country has never been perfect and has struggled with these same issues since its birth. Freedom has always prevailed (even if it took longer for some to gain it). We’ve had decades of fear-induced policies before but the pendulum eventually swung back in a more moderate direction. Hamilton reminds me of this and stirs my blood to action — to be young, scrappy and hungry and never be satisfied with the status quo.

Raise a glass to freedom. Something they can never take away. — Hamilton (Original Broadway Cast Recording)

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Pastries Nearly Killed the Budget…and Me

No matter how much time I spend planning & budgeting, our trips always seem to wander off track, which I’m totally fine with because it matches our travel style.  Our recent trip to Germany & Austria, however, was a unique divergence…we blew our budget on PASTRIES!

For those who know my eating habits, you know that I try to limit my daily sugar intake. I do this because sugar is a guaranteed inflammatory for my Rheumatoid Arthritis — too much nectar of the Gods & my hands swell & my veins start throbbing. But I ADORE pastries & because I deny myself of their pleasure so often, when I found myself in a region that has patisseries & confiseries on every block…I was toast! Eric loves sweets even more than me, so my accountability partner was no help this time.

Ok, now that I’ve cleansed my soul with confession, let’s switch gears & I’ll discuss our actual budget for this trip. As with any trip, dining out is where you can really overspend. I knew breakfast was included in our lodging fees & based on past trips I assumed we’d eat light cheap lunches, leaving us room to splurge for dinner. I didn’t take into account the fact that we’d be ordering coffee & pastries every day (sometimes twice in one day) or that water would cost so much.

For a region surrounded by pristine lakes & rivers, how is it that water is never free & often costs the same or more than beer? Now I know why Germans drink so much beer — it’s cheaper! It’s also very accessible, as you can buy beer from vending machines in public parks.

Cost-saving tips for food in Germany

  • Find the ethnic food restaurants & food trucks — they’re often cheaper.
  • Pay attention to portion sizes. Most of the German restaurants we frequented had huge portions & we could have easily shared one entree.
  • Bring a water bottle or hydration pack (like we did) that you can refill & look for signs that say trinkwasser, which means the water is safe to drink.
  • Stay away from tourist traps. Our biggest dining mistake was in Munich, when we spent $78 for food that wasn’t that great. But, it was Sunday, it was raining, I was hurting, & it was the closest restaurant that had a nice website & was popular with tourists.

This restaurant’s only redeeming factor was that it gave us a memorable experience: A man walked in selling newspapers & was allowed to do so, which we thought odd, but when we realized it was a publication promoting erotica, we REALLY thought it bizarre!

I had budgeted a total of $4100 for our 14-day trip. Our actual expenses were $4646. Here’s where our money went:

  • Lodging: $2035 (included breakfast every morning & 5 dinners)
  • Transportation: $1518 (included flights, airport parking & public transit)
  • Food: $901 (original budget was $560)
  • Tickets: $192 (included castle passes to Neuschwanstein & Hohenschwangau, Salzburg Cards & Dachstein Cable Car)

Eric doesn’t like to drive in an unfamiliar country & he misses so much when he’s driving, so we opted to use public transit the entire trip. Germany & Austria have excellent train systems, so it was quite easy & comfortable to get around. I did my research beforehand & that helped, especially in explaining what types of tickets to purchase & how to plan itineraries that were close to transportation stations.

When purchasing tickets from a kiosk in Austria, make sure to look at the screen and note the location and times before you hit print as tickets do not show this information. This is especially important in a large train station where you’re not sure what platform to wait at. We made this mistake in Salzburg and nearly missed our bus because we didn’t know where to wait for it.

Buses could be a little tricky, but when we asked for help or relied on the transit schedules they never steered us wrong. Trains were the easiest because all we had to do was know our final destination & what direction we needed to go in, much like a subway system in any large city. Trains that crossed borders or stopped at airports usually had an English announcer as well as German, but most of the German words were easy to discern anyway (like “nachster halt” in Austria and “nexta statione” which meant “next stop”). The English narrator on our trains sounded just like Jim Dale & we learned to pay attention when we heard his voice, because it always meant something important …such as the train will divide in half & you have x minutes to move to the front.

Some other tidbits we noticed about the German trains: they don’t always check tickets but you need to have them close at hand & passports just in case. Also, water closets on trains were free but cost .50 cents in stations — definitely need to keep change in your pocket for WC emergencies.

woman inserting coin to pay at German toilet

Relying on trains meant we had to travel light, so Eric & I fit everything for 2 weeks into our Kelty backpacks, a very small Camelbak, & an Osprey bag. Everything we needed fit easily & I never felt discomfort carrying the large pack (as long as I had the hip straps fastened).

Eric's packs

All said & done, I was very happy with our experience & what we paid for it. For future trips, I’ll look into the following options to save money & increase our enjoyment:

  • Stay at fewer locations & opt for a kitchen — we would save money by not dining out every night & Eric would enjoy the opportunity to cook new foods & utilize fresh markets.
  • Don’t assume trains are always cheapest — look at ride share options and Ubers.
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Freising Germany, a Hidden Gem

Freising Germany

I love it when a destination completely surprises me, which is a rare occasion because I tend to research to death every place I visit.

So imagine how happy I was to discover the sleepy town of Freising, Germany, which I picked as our last night for our 14-day Austria/Germany sojourn simply due to its proximity to the Munich airport. I didn’t know anything about the town, other than that it had a brewery [Big deal, right? They seem to be everywhere in Germany] and that I got a decent price for a hotel within walking distance to the train.

man market shopping in Freising Germany

After two nights in the heart of Munich & 13 days of travel, we were ready for something quiet. We took the train to Freising which took about 40min. We stayed at Hotel Bayerischer Hof, a half mile walk from the train station, & we were both impressed before we even walked inside the lobby. The location was excellent (shops, grocery store & dining all around) & the exterior was very pretty. Inside was even more impressive — great balance of cozy antique elegance with modern amenities. And apparently lady luck smiled upon us that day, because we were upgraded to a suite, which had a walk-in closet! Not that these minimalist vagabonds NEEDED an insanely large closet, but I still felt special.

This marriage of old & new perfectly sums up Freising. It is a town that seems to have found its proper balance, seeking progress without losing its charm.

Freising is one of the oldest cities in Bavaria. It was established in the 8th century & was the religious & cultural center for Upper Bavaria. This was a place of power for the bishops & a place for scholars & skilled artisans. Today’s city maintains that feel, with beautiful architecture & a small but thriving university campus.

town of Freising Germany viewed from above

The first thing we noticed when we stepped off the train was how alive the town felt & that it was residents we were seeing, not tourists. The central part of town was under construction but still bustling. School kids were walking around eating döners & ice cream. There was a small outdoor market next to our hotel, which was perfect for a quick healthy lunch. We enjoyed some delicious vegan food at Chakula’s food truck — friendly owner & great street food! We fell in LOVE with the pastries & chocolates at Andreas Muschler, the marvelous Thai/Vietnamese food at Lucki’s, & the decadent ice cream at Da Sandro’s. Who would have thought this sleepy town of 45,000 would have such wonderful dining?

Thai food on plate

Freising was more than just great food & quaint streets — it was a beautiful place to walk! We followed Weihenstephaner Fußweg (yeah, it’s a mouthful) uphill to the Weihenstephan Brewery, considered to be the oldest brewery in the world & began as a Benedictine monastery. Brewing in Freising began as early as 825 & by the 18th century they had 18 breweries (& only 3000 residents). No wonder why it seems such a laid-back happy city! The University at Weihenstephan now surrounds the brewery, with students studying horticulture, brewing, & much more. We walked through gardens maintained by the students & local residents, observing students walking around with fresh beer in hand. There was a cozy student library hidden in the trees with the best viewpoint I’ve ever seen for a library. Wooded pathways wrapped around the hill with steps leading to hidden alcoves & abandoned buildings. I couldn’t bend my knees that day, so Eric took the steep paths & took pictures for me.

forest path with brick wall in Freising Germany

Another brewery remains on the opposite side of town on Cathedral Hill (Hofbrauhaus Freising), which also provides a lovely walk uphill. And if you want more forest walks, drive north of town to Plantage Restaurant & Biergarten where the Forest Adventure Trail begins (1.2 mi nature trail with info points & a maze). For a really nice circular route around Freising, click here.

If you’re flying in or out of Munich’s International Airport, Freising is the place to stay! Just one word of advice: take the train to the airport, even if your hotel offers a shuttle. We took the shuttle but traffic was hectic & it took much longer than expected. Trains are more reliable when time is of the essence.

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