There are some good things that came out of 2020, and one of those was our discovery of the Mississippi coast. Having grown up in Louisiana, I’ll confess to having some pretty snobby opinions about our neighbor. Mississippi has always been the state we pass through to get to the Alabama or Florida beaches. But in 2020, when Eric and I were desperate to get away and needed something close, we booked an AirBnB in Long Beach and FELL IN LOVE. We loved it so much we went back again in 2020 and stayed in Gulfport for 4th of July. We repeated that same holiday trip in 2021. Yes, the water is brown like it is in Louisiana, but here’s why we love the Mississippi coast…

For starters, Gulfport is only a 4-hr drive from Lake Charles (assuming no traffic). Second, the beach that stretches from Pass Christian to Gulfport is one continuous offering of clean white sand with just enough smattering of dunes to make it interesting. Unless you’re near a condo or hotel, you’ll have the beach practically to yourself, and they all offer free parking, good public restrooms, and wide boardwalks. Third, walking or riding bikes through Pass Christian or Ocean Springs is a real treat. The streets are canopied with moss covered oaks and the homes are beautiful. Eric and I are more beach walkers than swimmers, so a quiet beach with great walking paths is more important to us than the quality of the water.

Have I enticed you yet? If so, here are my suggestions for a quick trip to the Mississippi coast…

WHERE TO STAY

Look for rentals on AirBnB or VRBO away from hotels and casinos. Anywhere between Pass Christian and the west side of Gulfport is a safe bet for quiet beaches. When looking at Gulfport try to avoid anything east of the Visitor’s Center, as it starts to get touristy past that point and the beach isn’t as nice. Ocean Springs is our favorite town on the Gulf and you absolutely MUST visit it even if you don’t stay there. We don’t like the beach in Ocean Springs because it’s too small and crowded, but we love the artistic hippie vibe of this town.

Gulfport is our top choice for 4th of July because they do a big fireworks display on the beach. We sit on the east side of Gulfport so we see Biloxi’s fireworks as well. Some of the best displays, however, come from the locals on the beach who really know what they’re doing.

locals on the beach display

Gulfport’s city display

If you’re going for the fireworks, rent something close enough to walk to the beach. It’s easy to park at these beaches, but you have to arrive early if you’re going for the fireworks and it’s a traffic nightmare when you leave.

WHERE TO EAT

Ocean Springs is the sweet spot for foodies, but if you like casual pizza joints or pub food then you can find something in any of the coastal towns. Here are our favorites:

Ocean Springs

• You’ll know you’ve reached Tatonut Donut Shop when you see the long line of people wrapped around the block. I still haven’t had one yet because I’m not willing to wait in line for an hour, but next trip we’re waking up early and getting there when they open. These iconic donuts, made from potato flour, have been a family business since 1960. For a great history and photos of Tatonut, click HERE — you’ll understand why people wait in line after reading it.

• The Greenhouse on Porter is exactly what it says — a greenhouse. Open for breakfast or lunch, this quirky space takes biscuits to a whole new level, plus they have pimiento cheese sandwiches which makes me a fan for life. If you go on the weekend, consider takeout because they’re popular and there’s really no place to wait.

  

• Vestige is our choice for dinner. We love that vegetables get as much attention as the proteins and that they menu changes according to what’s locally available. If kumquat kosho paste and chantenay carrots gets you excited, this is your kind of place.

• There are several great options for coffee, but we like The District Coffee Company. It has a great cozy beach vibe and good food options.

• For a culinary experience, look at what Food Booze Hiccups is offering. They teach classes and host outdoor dining events in town and on the beach. We’ve tried to go but their events were always sold out. This is one to plan way ahead of time and book early.

• The Saturday farmer’s market is small but the vendors are excellent. When we went in July, Fungi Bob and his daughter were selling lions mane mushrooms and homegrown root beer mixes. We were lucky enough to buy fresh pasta and bolognese sauce from Chef Danie, who when not running restaurants or selling at the fresh markets also teaches cooking classes. Both Bob and Danie were wonderful to visit with and full of advice for Eric.

  

• Health food markets don’t normally make the “where to eat” lists, but I must mention Five Seasons Whole Foods Market because they have such a good selection of hard-to-find items and the owner, Jan Walker, was such a delight to meet. Her face lit up when we told her she carried all the items we like and she filled our ears with her life story and passion for healthy foods. I want to return with my parents so they can meet Jan and reminisce about being “whole foods oriented” before it was trendy.

Gulfport

• C.A. Sarducci’s Pizzeria has a good atmosphere and is located in downtown Gulfport next to Fishbone Alley, which is simply a mural covered alley connecting a bunch of fun restaurants and bars. This is a fun place for those who like to socialize. If you prefer brick oven pizza, Tony’s Brick Oven Pizzeria is only 3 blocks away.

• Boozer’s Brew & a Cafe Too is a cozy place for breakfast or lunch in Gulfport. They have good salads and protein shakes for those trying to eat healthy.

• Good Karma Cafe is another good choice for healthy eaters. This Gulfport cafe defines themselves as vegan cuisine with Indian/Malaysian fusion and their menu changes according to what’s in season.

WHAT TO DO

Besides long walks on the beach or bike riding through town, these are the “to do” items on our list for future trips:

• Visit art museums, which seem to be everywhere between Gulfport and Ocean Springs. On our list: Walter Anderson Museum of Art, Ohr-O’Keefe Museum of Art, Mary C O’Keefe Cultural Center (would love to see a production in their Trent Lott Theatre), Alice Moseley Folk Art & Antiques, Dusti Bongé Art Foundation.

• Speaking of museums, the Maritime & Seafood Industry Museum in Biloxi is a fun place and it’s only a $10 admission, as opposed to the Mississippi Aquarium in Gulfport which looks really cool but I’m not sure the $30 admission is worth it.

• If I was doing a girls trip, I would add shopping in Ocean Springs. The boutique shops on Washington Avenue are excellent. For consignment shopping, try Back on the Rack or Anna’s Closet in Gulfport. And of course, there must be a bookstore stop and that would be Southern Bound Book Shop in Biloxi.

So there you have it, plenty of reasons to visit the Mississippi coast, especially if you prefer quiet beaches with southern architectural charm.