This is the second time on a trip that a car-share driver drops us off at our lodging and asks “do you really want me to drop you off here?” The first time was in Athens and I’ll admit, that apartment was sketchy. But there is nothing wrong with this place other than the fact that our parking lot shares space with the only porn store in Kauai.
Maybe it’s karma for having stolen someone else’s ride. Sorry James and Camilla, we didn’t intentionally steal your driver. It was just a comedy of errors due partly to jet lag brain and the fact that Eric apparently left his name (and brain) back on the mainland.
Just past the Hush Boutique and Crossfit gym (gotta admit the two extracurricular activities share mutual benefits), is a hidden oasis. Our stay at the Kapaa Garden Apartments looks promising after all. It’s a Zen garden tucked behind a shopping center with views of Mt. Nounou and cow pasture in the backyard. From our screened lanai we enjoy a constant symphony of wind moving through coconut trees and the multitude of animals sounds (roosters and baby chicks, cats, birds, cows and the humans working diligently to maintain this beautiful place). As the sun sets, soft notes of jazz and slide key are added to this Hawaiin orchestra as live music drifts from downtown Kapa’a.
This is Eric and I’s first visit to Hawaii. While Kauai has been on my radar because of its famous hiking trails and verdant scenery, tropical islands aren’t usually what we gravitate towards. We hate hiking in hot humid weather. Eric is allergic to everything that stings and has to bathe in sunscreen and my joints swell up like marshmallows. Knowing this, I approach the trip with an open itinerary and self-permission to just go with the flow.
Lucky for us, the first two days call for sunny skies so we undertake our hiking first. Nothing challenging the first day, just a coastal walk along the Mahaulepu Heritage Trail near Poipu. I love any walk with ocean views and this one is exceptional. There are no trail markings and lots of alternate trails and once we figure this out it becomes a fun wandering ramble. The trail is only 2 miles (4mi out and back) but it packs a lot of interest in that short distance. Volcanic rock, eroding cliffs, dense jungle, tree tunnels, wide open vistas, vibrant flowers growing in bright red clay, chickens and sea turtles, and a golf course with Jurassic Park mountains in the background – all in one trail!
If you hike Mahaulepu, take Poipu Rd all the way down the coast and begin the trail near the cave. This allows you to rest and eat at Shipwreck Beach (which has shade and bathrooms) before turning around. Shipwreck Beach ranks as one of our favorite beaches in Kauai. It’s too dangerous to swim here but it’s the perfect place to lounge beneath a tree and feel like you’re in a secret cove.
Our second hike is a muddy mess but oh the views! We’ve left early (before 7am) to drive up to Waimea Canyon and hike the Pihea Trail and Alakai Swamp to Kilohana Lookout. We stop at every viewpoint along the way because they are all photo-worthy and we know they’ll be full of people by the time we head back. The deep burnt orange of oxidized volcanic soil contrasts with the lush botanicals that have given Kauai its nickname “the Garden Island.”
The Pihea Trail in Koke’e State Park is one of the “easier” trails on Kauai and it’s still a workout. The views from this trail are why we chose it because we can see Waimea Canyon on one side and the Na Pali Coast Wilderness on the other side.
What begins as a wide open table of rock quickly becomes a muddy slog through dense forest and mud canyons. There is much upper body maneuvering, grasping tree limbs and fences to prevent sinking in several feet of mud, and I know I’m going to be sore tomorrow. We continue to trek on but at some point along the swamp trail it just becomes work without a view and the humidity is getting to both of us so we turn around and I feel less guilty when I see other hikers doing the same.
By the 3rd morning we’ve immersed ourselves in the daily routines, which begin early in Kauai. The school buses parked next door wake us as they pull out around 6am (if the roosters haven’t already disrupted our slumber). From here on out our daily activities focus on easy beach walks, wildlife watching from our lanai and exploring Hawaiian foods.
It’s good to know that my success rate of picking fruit is equally as bad in Kauai as it is back home. My Frustrations with Fruit are nothing new and have been recorded for history, but that hasn’t stopped me from trying fresh coconut water. I’m not a fan but if I were stranded on a deserted island and needed liquid, I would learn to love the coconut. Since I’m not Chuck Noland, I’ll stick with a Maui Coconut Porter.
Not all farmer’s markets are created equal and this truth is clear to us as we explore different markets on the island. The Kapa’a Wednesday market is convenient but it pales in comparison to the Puhi Saturday market. Wow! We arrive 20 min early and wait for the deafening air horn to announce that selling can commence, but it’s worth it for these high quality vendors. Vegetables we’ve never seen before are displayed like artwork, people are lining up for exotic flower bouquets and we’re experiencing the blissful taste of Paulie’s Pineapple Phrosty for the first time.
It’s official, Eric and I do not belong on sunny beaches. While others are praying for sun, we’re secretly happy to have rainy days on the beach. We take our time walking Kalihiwai Beach, where a few cars are parked with people eating their lunches inside, but we’re the only ones braving the elements. We’ve discovered a few beaches are closed or inaccessible so we’re thrilled to find this sacred space. A little further along the north shore we stop at Anini Beach where a small group is having a toddler drum circle. One tike streaks across the beach naked as the day he was born. A woman who looks to be native Hawaiian is fully submerged in the clear water, facing the sun with her eyes closed and moving slowly in a ritualistic manner. A few adventurists are paddle boarding and snorkeling.
The rain is light enough to enjoy scenic drives as well. Kilauea Lighthouse looks beautiful in the rain, which provides us the perfect excuse to stop and enjoy malasadas, coffee and pork taro lau lau at Kilauea Bakery (which has a fabulous little book sale that supports the local school). Their molasses rye bread also makes delicious sandwiches!
We’ve come to Kauai to experience it through the eyes of people who live here, rather than isolating ourselves in a perfectly crafted bubble designed for tourists. We learn which grocery stores have the best prices, we observe the high cost and poor conditions of housing, and we learn to navigate the daily traffic frustrations of an island bloated with visitors and little to no transportation infrastructure to accommodate them. We watch local police assist an overdose victim at a bus stop. It may be a tropical paradise but the issues here are no different than back on the mainland.
As we head back to the airport for our return flight, our airport shuttle driver, Daniel, informs us that people of Kauai used to visit Louisiana often. I assume New Orleans was their destination so imagine our shock when he says…
“They went for the cock fighting.” And a history lesson on the ancestral roots of the Hawaiian chicken and my home state’s questionable legalization of fowl sport commences.
Just like the Kauai Airport, our overall impression of this island is open, unpretentious and friendly. Our choice to stay in town rather than in a resort pays off as we feel the islanders embrace us as guests rather than tourists. In a place so dependent on tourism, it’s refreshing to see their ancient wisdom is still alive today for those who are open to it.
E hele me ka pu’olo
Always take an offering with you. Make every person place or condition better than you left it. Wherever you go, always take something with you.
For a thorough Hiking and Slow Travel Guide to Kauai, hop on over to Trips to Walkabout. If you just want advice on lodging, read our Budget-Friendly Stays on Kauai.
