Travel Diary, Trip Planning, United States

Budget-Friendly Stays on Kauai

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kapa'a garden apartments in kauai

Kauai offers a variety of accommodation options, from budget-friendly to luxury resorts, but there’s no reason to spend all of your money to stay here. On Kauai, outdoor activities are where you want to spend your dollars. The best area to stay in Kauai depends on your personal preferences and travel plans, so we’re providing this guide to make it easier for you to determine which town is best for you. And we’re only including lodging that’s less than $300 per night (including fees but excluding tax).

Finding short term rentals in Kauai that are legal

Hawaii refers to short-term rentals as transient vacation rentals and they must get permits and keep those permits renewed. The best site we’ve found to search for lodging that’s been verified is HawaiiGaga — their listings are all on VRBO but this site includes details about the condos and resorts, as well as the permit numbers. Use Airbnb for different options but make sure they have a permit (you’ll see a TVR# in the listing).

The Government of Kauai lists all TVRs on their site and you can check to see if your lodging is in compliance. This level of research is really only necessary if you’re staying outside the resort areas of Princeville, Kapa’a or Poipu.

look for vacation rentals that offer free perks

Budget-saving tips for Kauai lodging

Whether you’re traveling solo, for a honeymoon or as a multi-generational family, there are certain things to look for in lodging that will save you money.

  • Book lodging with a kitchen or kitchenette. Unless you plan on holing up for a week in your room (we see you honeymooners), then you won’t need a large fridge because you’ll want to buy fresh as often as possible. Fresh produce stands and farmer’s markets are almost daily around here.
  • Let go of the requirement for a hot tub and pool — you can easily get that back home and there’s an entire ocean of water just waiting for you. If you’re going to splurge for water, do it for the beach access.
  • Look for lodging that has a clothesline and settle for not having a washer/dryer. The old-fashioned way of washing in a sink or shower is really not difficult, well-seasoned travelers do it all the time!
  • Before beginning your search, prioritize your “must haves.” If walking directly from your room onto the beach is the most important, write that down. Is quiet privacy more important? Do you want something unique that’s unlike anything you can get back home or would you prefer something that feels familiar?
  • Make a budget for total accommodation costs and stick to it! Limit search results so you don’t see those only-billionaires-stay-here places. It’s cruel and unusual punishment, save yourself the heartache.
  • Start looking several months in advance — the good ones always book up early!
Kapa'a Bike Path is one of many reasons we chose to stay here

Where to stay in Kauai

Kapa’a

Located on the east shore, Kapa’a is a central location with easy access to both the north and south shores of Kauai. If you want to explore the entire island and stay in one place, this is it! Everything is within walking distance, which is good because the worst traffic jams on Kauai happen here. Beaches, food trucks, live music and great shops are all here and they’re frequented by a good mix of locals and tourists.

Stay in Kapa’a if you want…

  • Casual vibe with a mix of families, energetic surfers and retirees
  • To explore the entire island and stay in one place
  • To walk or bike the Kapa’a Bike Path and Mt. Nounou (Sleeping Giant)
  • To hike and kayak the Wailua River
  • A good selection of affordable lodging within walking distance of a beach
  • If you love food trucks and health food stores
  • To surf Kaelia Beach

Budget-friendly lodging in Kapa’a

book sale sign and books at Kilauea Book Sale in Kauai
Stay in Kilauea just for their bakery, which has the best little book sale

Kilauea

The quieter side of the north shore, Kilauea feels more like an old historic town back in the states, one that’s been re-gentrified and has a little extra posh while still maintaining its unique character. Cute shops and eateries can be found in historic buildings and some of the wealthiest people live close by so there’s a different crowd here, but one that we found to be very welcoming. Great beaches are nearby but you’ll need to drive to them.

Stay in Kilauea if you want…

  • The feel of a charming small town where you can mingle and hang out in cafes
  • To spend most of your time on the north shore
  • To visit the Kilauea Lighthouse and tour the north shore gardens and farms
Budget-friendly lodging in or near Kilauea
Kekaha Beach, photo courtesy of pawel.gaul from Getty Images Siganature

Kekaha

Located on the far southwest side of the island, Waimea offers a more authentic Hawaiian experience. This area is ideal for those looking to explore Kauai’s native history and culture or who want to spend several days hiking the Waimea Canyon and Koke’e State Park. The beach here is quiet and perfect for lounging or watching sunsets but due to strong waves and currents it’s not safe for water activities.

Stay in Kekaha if you want…

  • To hike Waimea Canyon and Koke’e State Parks for more than one day
  • To feel like a local and be surrounded by locals instead of tourists
  • To spend most of your time on the south shore
  • To lounge by the beach with little desire to get in the water
  • Spend time hanging out in Waimea and Hanapepe

Budget-friendly lodging in Kekaha

shipwreck beach in poipu kauai
Shipwreck Beach, a quiet rest away from Poipu's condos

Poipu

Located on the sunny south shore, Poipu is a popular resort destination for its beaches, shopping, golf courses and dining options. While we disliked the resort vibe, Poipu is a great choice for families with small children and it’s close to the Mahaulepu Heritage Trail.

Stay in Poipu if you want…

  • Beaches that are toddler-friendly
  • To spend most of your time on the south shore
  • To hike Mahaulepu Trail and explore the area on horseback with CJM Country Stables
  • Resort amenities and to be surrounded by fellow tourists

Budget-friendly lodging in Poipu

Hanalei, photo courtesy of Backyard Productions

Hanalei

Located on the north shore, Hanalei is a charming town with a laid-back vibe and access to some of the best beaches on the island. It’s a great choice if you’re planning to hike the Kalalau Trail or kayak Hanalei River but it’s far from everything else and it’s expensive. Hanalei and Princeville also get the most rain.

Stay in Hanalei if you want…

  • To visit the gardens and farms on the north shore
  • To Hike Hanakapi’ai Falls and Kalalau Trails
  • To kayak, paddleboard or fish along Hanalei River
  • The surfer-dude vibe with cool places to socialize

Budget-friendly lodging in Hanalei

condos on golf course in Princeville Kauai
Princeville condos, photo courtesy of 3bugsmom from Getty Images Signature

Princeville

Located on the north shore, Princeville is known for its luxurious resorts, golf course and stunning views of Hanalei Bay. If you want to feel like you’re in a luxury resort that you could find anywhere else, then by all means stay here. Otherwise, stay somewhere with a little more Hawaiian flare and experience what makes Kauai unique.

Stay in Princeville if you want…

  • A luxury resort that feels separate from the rest of the island
  • A quiet romantic getaway with resort amenities
  • To only spend time on the north shore
  • To feel like you’re a prince or princess

Budget-friendly lodging in Princeville

beach camping at anini beach kauai
beach camping at Anini Beach

Camping options on Kauai

If you really want to save money and sleep directly on the beach or in the forest, then Kauai has a few camp sites that you’ll want to book in advance and these are the ones we recommend. Permits and beach safety are a concern on Kauai so read this camping guide before making any decisions.

Why we didn't include Lihue

You can certainly find excellent lodging at an affordable price in Lihue, but this is the main town with the airport and cruise ship ports. It’s also home to the mega shopping chains (Walmart and Costco) and lies inland more than on the coast. In short, it’s a cool town with cool people and a fabulous farmer’s market but it lacks the beautiful views and slower vibe that most people come here to experience.

Ready to start planning your next vacation to Kauai? Read our Hiking and Slow Travel Guide for Kauai and get our personal stories at A Louisiana Woman’s Impressions of Kauai. 

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Hiking, Slow travel, Travel Diary, United States

Buzzed Hiking Lessons in Oregon

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man holding his breath while hiking in oregon

For those who know us well, you’ve probably already guessed where this story is headed. But just in case, let’s end any rumors about drunkenly behavior on the Oregon trails and set the record straight. We did NOT get buzzed on alcohol while hiking in Oregon. We DID get attacked and Eric almost died.

Let me explain.

It began so well

Our trip to Oregon began on a perfect note. The flight to Eugene was smooth and the weather was sunny and dry (which is rare in April). Our drive along Hwy 126 through the Siuslaw National Forest was beautiful, especially along Sweet Creek Falls where we stopped to hike. The road to the trailhead is long and steep but it’s a gorgeous drive and can be done in a small car. We LOVED this trail and it’s a MUST HIKE if you’re ever in those neck of the woods.

bearded man drinking coffee look out window on oregon coast

Finding our Zen

We arrived at Ocean Haven, a place that cast its spell on us when we visited in 2020. The lodging isn’t luxurious by any means and the spaces are small but the location within Tokatee Klootchman Natural Area is AMAZING and they have everything you need to survive in comfort. We booked their Shag’s Nest and enjoyed our own private ocean views, sipping coffee, reading books and watching the storms roll in. Our room had a shelf full of books about hiking, meditation and local history so we felt completely at home. The only dissonance in my Zen moments were when Eric would leap out of the chair to try and capture a photo of the elusive bald eagles that call this place home. I told him he was exhibiting similar behavior to the characters in Grumpy Old Men, only he was “eagle hunter” instead of “catfish hunter.”

Learning lessons in icy rain

Eric and I both love the rain and we anticipated hiking in it, but we didn’t expect that rain would turn into ice. While hiking Amanda’s Trail from Yachats to Cape Perpetua Lookout, we did just that. It was a light hail and made a nice “tink tink tink” sound when it hit the ground. The entire trail was beautiful, beginning with ocean views, a suspension bridge and a sacred memorial area commemorating a tragic story that symbolizes many similar tales in our nation’s history.

Before this trip I had never heard of Amanda de Cuy or the trail that carries her name. Amanda was a Coos woman who was blind, abandoned by her husband then forcefully separated from her daughter and forced to march with others in her tribe along what is called the Oregon Trail of Tears (which ended in Yachats). To hike this trail was a humbling experience.

You’ll find a good history of the Coos people here.

nick offerman book where the deer and the antelope play

Wisdom received

I rarely buy books, especially while traveling. They’re heavy and I can get them free at my library. At Books’n’Bears in Florence, something compelled me to buy a copy of Nick Offerman’s Where the Deer and the Antelope Play. I had no idea it delved into our nation’s complicated relationship between our national parks and the expulsion of our native peoples from their land. This was the book I was reading before and after we hiked Amanda’s Trail. Wisdom comes to those whose minds are open and mine was perfectly prepped to receive the messages from these stories. Like so many Americans, I take immense pride in our park systems and any place that makes nature accessible to all. Not once have I pondered the fact that our gain was someone else’s loss, until now. This doesn’t tarnish my love of country or our parks – it engenders a deeper appreciation for the privilege we have and instills a deeper desire to respect and protect the land and those who have always fought to do the same.

hiker in dunes trail near florence oregon

Near death in Florence

Speaking of Florence, that lovely town on the Oregon coast is where Eric almost met his demise. I might be slightly exaggerating the peril (I’m half Irish after all), but in the moment I really did fear that I would lose him. We were hiking the Dunes Trail at Sutton Lake when we stumbled upon a very angry swarm of bees. Eric is HIGHLY allergic to anything that stings and carries an EPI pen wherever he goes. One sting is enough to send him to the hospital, multiple stings could kill him. I watched him walk through that swarm, clinging to him like something out of a horror movie. I could see them hitting his bright blue rain jacket as he desperately tried to get away.

They eventually left him alone, at which point he unzipped his jacket and I could see him struggling to remain calm. With EPI pen and Benadryl in hand, we inspected his neck and face to see if he’d been stung. We waited and focused on slowing our out-of-control heart rates. The scene from My Girl and stories I’ve read about of hikers who died on the trail due to anaphylaxis kept playing in my head. Miraculously Eric was not stung and the experience was just another reminder to fully appreciate and never waste this precious time we are given.

On a lighter note

Before the dunes we hiked Heceta Head and Hobbit’s Beach trails. At the end of Hobbit’s Beach there was a section where people have decorated the trail with shells and other natural treasures. We had fun dressing up Coco and letting her frolic in the magical wonderland. For those who don’t know Coco, she’s a crocheted avocado given to us by our 3-yr old Godchild/niece. Coco goes with us on every trip and travels with her own prop bag. Pretty sure she gets more attention on our social media than we do.

An easy ending in Depoe Bay

We ended our trip in Depoe Bay, our second favorite town on the Oregon coast. Like Yachats, Depoe Bay has several excellent trails to hike (most of which we’ve hiked in previous trips) and they have the best clam chowder in Oregon at Gracie’s Sea Hag. This time we explored the Depoe Bay Trail that begins in town, winds itself along the rocky cliffs and connects with the Oregon Coast Trail. We followed it north past Boiler Bay Scenic Viewpoint and turned around at Fogarty Creek.

We also attempted the Knoll to God’s Thumb hike. The Knoll is a large grassy hill that sits atop Lincoln City. The trek began in town where we parked at Roads End Recreation Area and headed up the steep terraced neighborhood until we reached the trailhead. It was a muddy climb all the way to the end where God’s Thumb juts out into the Pacific Ocean. We got close to the divine phalange but stopped just before the tip because it was too steep and slippery to attempt. Neither one of us wanted to throw away the life granted us after the bee fiasco.

knob to god's thumb trail near lincoln city oregon

We headed back to the beach parking lot to eat lunch. While scarfing down our sandwiches, I struck up a conversation with an older man and his sister who were doing beach clean-up. Armed with rock hunting scoop and litter stick, the man told us he had recently become disabled and the daily beach walks was helping him learn to walk again. He had recently moved in with his sister so she could help care for him and you could see how genuinely happy they were in their companionship and to be doing something useful.

Lots of lessons to be learned in Oregon and while traveling, if we only open ourselves to do so.

Have we convinced you yet to visit Oregon? You’ll find our Best Hikes on the Oregon Coast on Trips to Walkabout.

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Hiking, Slow travel, Travel Diary, United States

Musings on a Third Trip to Oregon

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woman looking out at pacific ocean while hiking in oregon

For someone who rarely repeats a vacation destination, it does seem odd that Eric and I have now visited the Oregon coast three times. Once in 2010, then in 2020 amidst COVID and hurricanes, and now in 2023. We have zero ties to this state and don’t know anyone who lives here (other than social media acquaintances). So what keeps bringing us back?

woman drinking coffee looking at Pacific Ocean near Yachats Oregon

Travel destinations are emotional

Where we travel is deeply tied to our emotions, at least for Eric and I. While cost often determines whether or not we end up going, the initial desire for a specific destination always begins with some emotional need. Looking back at the time periods that we’ve visited Oregon, all three of those years were times of significant change. In 2010 we had moved back to Louisiana and both had new jobs. You know what happened in 2020 and our trip this year follows my retirement from libraries and precedes two epic trips that will be slightly out of our comfort zone. Which brings me to the next reason we keep choosing Oregon.

woman standing on lava rocks in Depoe Bay Oregon

Oregon is our comfort place

No doubt about it, the Oregon coast is our happy place. We can fly to Portland or Eugene, easily leave the city and quickly arrive at the coast. In Oregon, my hair can be as frizzy as it wants to be, I never feel compelled to wear make-up and I can wear the same clothes every day and no one will notice (or care). Actually, if they do notice they’ll probably high-five me for not being wasteful. Which leads me to another reason we love Oregon.

woman clinging to a tree near God's Thumb Oregon

Oregonians will save the world

I seriously believe that if everyone on the planet lived like most Oregonians, global warming would not be an issue, there wouldn’t be giant islands of trash in third world countries and the oceans would still be clean. Do you remember Earth Day celebrations when you were in school? You know, the one week a year when we all learned to Recycle, Reuse, Repurpose? Most Oregonians (at least all the ones we’ve met) practice this every day — it’s a normal way of life. And I don’t mean the “plastic NEVER touches these Botoxed lips” kind of thinking you see on the west coast. I mean the kind of living where people live in small homes with vintage furniture. Where the haute couture is old and repurposed. Where the Airbnb rentals have hair dryers that were used in the movie set for Grease. Lest you think this is just those liberal city folks, not so fast. Southern and eastern Oregonians are just as practical and have an even deeper appreciation for simple living. Which brings me to my final note.

man hiking amanda's trail near cape perpetua oregon

Oregon is a fascinating microcosm of America

The culture wars are always on display in Oregon and it seems like everyone is an activist for something here. I find it fascinating to eavesdrop in a cafe or restaurant and it’s always fun to see how quickly road signs and bumper stickers change the minute you start driving south or east. While these opposing viewpoints may be frustrating to some, I find it refreshing that Oregonians care. Nothing scares me more than apathy.

bearded man with cellphone making a face in front of pacific ocean

Eric and I spent a lot of time reading on this trip, partly because it rained EVERY DAY but also because we had time. Time to create, to let our minds wander and time to just goof off. We squeezed some hikes in between the rain and discovered several new favorite trails (which I’ll share in the next post). It was cold, stormy and almost perfect except for the day Eric nearly died (which I’ll also share in the next post).

Until next time…

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