A Louisiana Woman’s Impressions of Kauai
This is the second time on a trip that a car-share driver drops us off at our lodging and asks “do you really want me to drop you off here?” The first time was in Athens and I’ll admit, that apartment was sketchy. But there is nothing wrong with this place other than the fact that our parking lot shares space with the only porn store in Kauai.
Maybe it’s karma for having stolen someone else’s ride. Sorry James and Camilla, we didn’t intentionally steal your driver. It was just a comedy of errors due partly to jet lag brain and the fact that Eric apparently left his name (and brain) back on the mainland.
Just past the Hush Boutique and Crossfit gym (gotta admit the two extracurricular activities share mutual benefits), is a hidden oasis. Our stay at the Kapaa Garden Apartments looks promising after all. It’s a Zen garden tucked behind a shopping center with views of Mt. Nounou and cow pasture in the backyard. From our screened lanai we enjoy a constant symphony of wind moving through coconut trees and the multitude of animals sounds (roosters and baby chicks, cats, birds, cows and the humans working diligently to maintain this beautiful place). As the sun sets, soft notes of jazz and slide key are added to this Hawaiin orchestra as live music drifts from downtown Kapa’a.
This is Eric and I’s first visit to Hawaii. While Kauai has been on my radar because of its famous hiking trails and verdant scenery, tropical islands aren’t usually what we gravitate towards. We hate hiking in hot humid weather. Eric is allergic to everything that stings and has to bathe in sunscreen and my joints swell up like marshmallows. Knowing this, I approach the trip with an open itinerary and self-permission to just go with the flow.
Lucky for us, the first two days call for sunny skies so we undertake our hiking first. Nothing challenging the first day, just a coastal walk along the Mahaulepu Heritage Trail near Poipu. I love any walk with ocean views and this one is exceptional. There are no trail markings and lots of alternate trails and once we figure this out it becomes a fun wandering ramble. The trail is only 2 miles (4mi out and back) but it packs a lot of interest in that short distance. Volcanic rock, eroding cliffs, dense jungle, tree tunnels, wide open vistas, vibrant flowers growing in bright red clay, chickens and sea turtles, and a golf course with Jurassic Park mountains in the background – all in one trail!
If you hike Mahaulepu, take Poipu Rd all the way down the coast and begin the trail near the cave. This allows you to rest and eat at Shipwreck Beach (which has shade and bathrooms) before turning around. Shipwreck Beach ranks as one of our favorite beaches in Kauai. It’s too dangerous to swim here but it’s the perfect place to lounge beneath a tree and feel like you’re in a secret cove.
Our second hike is a muddy mess but oh the views! We’ve left early (before 7am) to drive up to Waimea Canyon and hike the Pihea Trail and Alakai Swamp to Kilohana Lookout. We stop at every viewpoint along the way because they are all photo-worthy and we know they’ll be full of people by the time we head back. The deep burnt orange of oxidized volcanic soil contrasts with the lush botanicals that have given Kauai its nickname “the Garden Island.”
The Pihea Trail in Koke’e State Park is one of the “easier” trails on Kauai and it’s still a workout. The views from this trail are why we chose it because we can see Waimea Canyon on one side and the Na Pali Coast Wilderness on the other side.
What begins as a wide open table of rock quickly becomes a muddy slog through dense forest and mud canyons. There is much upper body maneuvering, grasping tree limbs and fences to prevent sinking in several feet of mud, and I know I’m going to be sore tomorrow. We continue to trek on but at some point along the swamp trail it just becomes work without a view and the humidity is getting to both of us so we turn around and I feel less guilty when I see other hikers doing the same.
By the 3rd morning we’ve immersed ourselves in the daily routines, which begin early in Kauai. The school buses parked next door wake us as they pull out around 6am (if the roosters haven’t already disrupted our slumber). From here on out our daily activities focus on easy beach walks, wildlife watching from our lanai and exploring Hawaiian foods.
It’s good to know that my success rate of picking fruit is equally as bad in Kauai as it is back home. My Frustrations with Fruit are nothing new and have been recorded for history, but that hasn’t stopped me from trying fresh coconut water. I’m not a fan but if I were stranded on a deserted island and needed liquid, I would learn to love the coconut. Since I’m not Chuck Noland, I’ll stick with a Maui Coconut Porter.
Not all farmer’s markets are created equal and this truth is clear to us as we explore different markets on the island. The Kapa’a Wednesday market is convenient but it pales in comparison to the Puhi Saturday market. Wow! We arrive 20 min early and wait for the deafening air horn to announce that selling can commence, but it’s worth it for these high quality vendors. Vegetables we’ve never seen before are displayed like artwork, people are lining up for exotic flower bouquets and we’re experiencing the blissful taste of Paulie’s Pineapple Phrosty for the first time.
It’s official, Eric and I do not belong on sunny beaches. While others are praying for sun, we’re secretly happy to have rainy days on the beach. We take our time walking Kalihiwai Beach, where a few cars are parked with people eating their lunches inside, but we’re the only ones braving the elements. We’ve discovered a few beaches are closed or inaccessible so we’re thrilled to find this sacred space. A little further along the north shore we stop at Anini Beach where a small group is having a toddler drum circle. One tike streaks across the beach naked as the day he was born. A woman who looks to be native Hawaiian is fully submerged in the clear water, facing the sun with her eyes closed and moving slowly in a ritualistic manner. A few adventurists are paddle boarding and snorkeling.
The rain is light enough to enjoy scenic drives as well. Kilauea Lighthouse looks beautiful in the rain, which provides us the perfect excuse to stop and enjoy malasadas, coffee and pork taro lau lau at Kilauea Bakery (which has a fabulous little book sale that supports the local school). Their molasses rye bread also makes delicious sandwiches!
We’ve come to Kauai to experience it through the eyes of people who live here, rather than isolating ourselves in a perfectly crafted bubble designed for tourists. We learn which grocery stores have the best prices, we observe the high cost and poor conditions of housing, and we learn to navigate the daily traffic frustrations of an island bloated with visitors and little to no transportation infrastructure to accommodate them. We watch local police assist an overdose victim at a bus stop. It may be a tropical paradise but the issues here are no different than back on the mainland.
As we head back to the airport for our return flight, our airport shuttle driver, Daniel, informs us that people of Kauai used to visit Louisiana often. I assume New Orleans was their destination so imagine our shock when he says…
“They went for the cock fighting.” And a history lesson on the ancestral roots of the Hawaiian chicken and my home state’s questionable legalization of fowl sport commences.
Just like the Kauai Airport, our overall impression of this island is open, unpretentious and friendly. Our choice to stay in town rather than in a resort pays off as we feel the islanders embrace us as guests rather than tourists. In a place so dependent on tourism, it’s refreshing to see their ancient wisdom is still alive today for those who are open to it.
E hele me ka pu’olo
Always take an offering with you. Make every person place or condition better than you left it. Wherever you go, always take something with you.
For a thorough Hiking and Slow Travel Guide to Kauai, hop on over to Trips to Walkabout. If you just want advice on lodging, read our Budget-Friendly Stays on Kauai.
Budget-Friendly Stays on Kauai
Kauai offers a variety of accommodation options, from budget-friendly to luxury resorts, but there’s no reason to spend all of your money to stay here. On Kauai, outdoor activities are where you want to spend your dollars. The best area to stay in Kauai depends on your personal preferences and travel plans, so we’re providing this guide to make it easier for you to determine which town is best for you. And we’re only including lodging that’s less than $300 per night (including fees but excluding tax).
Finding short term rentals in Kauai that are legal
Hawaii refers to short-term rentals as transient vacation rentals and they must get permits and keep those permits renewed. The best site we’ve found to search for lodging that’s been verified is HawaiiGaga — their listings are all on VRBO but this site includes details about the condos and resorts, as well as the permit numbers. Use Airbnb for different options but make sure they have a permit (you’ll see a TVR# in the listing).
The Government of Kauai lists all TVRs on their site and you can check to see if your lodging is in compliance. This level of research is really only necessary if you’re staying outside the resort areas of Princeville, Kapa’a or Poipu.
Budget-saving tips for Kauai lodging
Whether you’re traveling solo, for a honeymoon or as a multi-generational family, there are certain things to look for in lodging that will save you money.
- Book lodging with a kitchen or kitchenette. Unless you plan on holing up for a week in your room (we see you honeymooners), then you won’t need a large fridge because you’ll want to buy fresh as often as possible. Fresh produce stands and farmer’s markets are almost daily around here.
- Let go of the requirement for a hot tub and pool — you can easily get that back home and there’s an entire ocean of water just waiting for you. If you’re going to splurge for water, do it for the beach access.
- Look for lodging that has a clothesline and settle for not having a washer/dryer. The old-fashioned way of washing in a sink or shower is really not difficult, well-seasoned travelers do it all the time!
- Before beginning your search, prioritize your “must haves.” If walking directly from your room onto the beach is the most important, write that down. Is quiet privacy more important? Do you want something unique that’s unlike anything you can get back home or would you prefer something that feels familiar?
- Make a budget for total accommodation costs and stick to it! Limit search results so you don’t see those only-billionaires-stay-here places. It’s cruel and unusual punishment, save yourself the heartache.
- Start looking several months in advance — the good ones always book up early!
Where to stay in Kauai
Kapa’a
Located on the east shore, Kapa’a is a central location with easy access to both the north and south shores of Kauai. If you want to explore the entire island and stay in one place, this is it! Everything is within walking distance, which is good because the worst traffic jams on Kauai happen here. Beaches, food trucks, live music and great shops are all here and they’re frequented by a good mix of locals and tourists.
Stay in Kapa’a if you want…
- Casual vibe with a mix of families, energetic surfers and retirees
- To explore the entire island and stay in one place
- To walk or bike the Kapa’a Bike Path and Mt. Nounou (Sleeping Giant)
- To hike and kayak the Wailua River
- A good selection of affordable lodging within walking distance of a beach
- If you love food trucks and health food stores
- To surf Kaelia Beach
Budget-friendly lodging in Kapa’a
- Kapaa Garden Apartments, $192-$270 per night
- Toyota 4-Runner and Camping Gear, $150 per night
- Torrey’s Guest Suites, $201 per night
- Kauai Kailani Condos, $230-$260 per night
- Kauai Shores Hotel, $296 per night (pool + free breakfast)
Kilauea
The quieter side of the north shore, Kilauea feels more like an old historic town back in the states, one that’s been re-gentrified and has a little extra posh while still maintaining its unique character. Cute shops and eateries can be found in historic buildings and some of the wealthiest people live close by so there’s a different crowd here, but one that we found to be very welcoming. Great beaches are nearby but you’ll need to drive to them.
Stay in Kilauea if you want…
- The feel of a charming small town where you can mingle and hang out in cafes
- To spend most of your time on the north shore
- To visit the Kilauea Lighthouse and tour the north shore gardens and farms
Budget-friendly lodging in or near Kilauea
- Plantation-style North Shore Cottage, $261 per night
- Hale Maluhia, $195 per night (direct access to Anini Beach)
Kekaha
Located on the far southwest side of the island, Waimea offers a more authentic Hawaiian experience. This area is ideal for those looking to explore Kauai’s native history and culture or who want to spend several days hiking the Waimea Canyon and Koke’e State Park. The beach here is quiet and perfect for lounging or watching sunsets but due to strong waves and currents it’s not safe for water activities.
Stay in Kekaha if you want…
- To hike Waimea Canyon and Koke’e State Parks for more than one day
- To feel like a local and be surrounded by locals instead of tourists
- To spend most of your time on the south shore
- To lounge by the beach with little desire to get in the water
- Spend time hanging out in Waimea and Hanapepe
Budget-friendly lodging in Kekaha
- Nene Nest, $315 per night (slightly over budget but it has 2 bedrooms)
- Hale La’akea Plantation, $280 per night
Poipu
Located on the sunny south shore, Poipu is a popular resort destination for its beaches, shopping, golf courses and dining options. While we disliked the resort vibe, Poipu is a great choice for families with small children and it’s close to the Mahaulepu Heritage Trail.
Stay in Poipu if you want…
- Beaches that are toddler-friendly
- To spend most of your time on the south shore
- To hike Mahaulepu Trail and explore the area on horseback with CJM Country Stables
- Resort amenities and to be surrounded by fellow tourists
Budget-friendly lodging in Poipu
- Prince Kuhio Condo, $270 per night
Hanalei
Located on the north shore, Hanalei is a charming town with a laid-back vibe and access to some of the best beaches on the island. It’s a great choice if you’re planning to hike the Kalalau Trail or kayak Hanalei River but it’s far from everything else and it’s expensive. Hanalei and Princeville also get the most rain.
Stay in Hanalei if you want…
- To visit the gardens and farms on the north shore
- To Hike Hanakapi’ai Falls and Kalalau Trails
- To kayak, paddleboard or fish along Hanalei River
- The surfer-dude vibe with cool places to socialize
Budget-friendly lodging in Hanalei
- Hanalei Beach Suite, $247 per night
Princeville
Located on the north shore, Princeville is known for its luxurious resorts, golf course and stunning views of Hanalei Bay. If you want to feel like you’re in a luxury resort that you could find anywhere else, then by all means stay here. Otherwise, stay somewhere with a little more Hawaiian flare and experience what makes Kauai unique.
Stay in Princeville if you want…
- A luxury resort that feels separate from the rest of the island
- A quiet romantic getaway with resort amenities
- To only spend time on the north shore
- To feel like you’re a prince or princess
Budget-friendly lodging in Princeville
- Second-story Sandpiper Village Condo, $244 per night
- Princeville Bungalow, $277 per night
- Yoga House, $263 per night
Camping options on Kauai
If you really want to save money and sleep directly on the beach or in the forest, then Kauai has a few camp sites that you’ll want to book in advance and these are the ones we recommend. Permits and beach safety are a concern on Kauai so read this camping guide before making any decisions.
- Cabins at Kokee State Park, $206 per night (basic but includes kitchen)
- State Park Primitive camping, $30-35 per night
- Anini Beach, $3 per adult per night (shady trees and rainy days)
- Salt Ponds Beach, $3 per adult per night (lots of sun)
Why we didn't include Lihue
You can certainly find excellent lodging at an affordable price in Lihue, but this is the main town with the airport and cruise ship ports. It’s also home to the mega shopping chains (Walmart and Costco) and lies inland more than on the coast. In short, it’s a cool town with cool people and a fabulous farmer’s market but it lacks the beautiful views and slower vibe that most people come here to experience.
Ready to start planning your next vacation to Kauai? Read our Hiking and Slow Travel Guide for Kauai and get our personal stories at A Louisiana Woman’s Impressions of Kauai.
Buzzed Hiking Lessons in Oregon
For those who know us well, you’ve probably already guessed where this story is headed. But just in case, let’s end any rumors about drunkenly behavior on the Oregon trails and set the record straight. We did NOT get buzzed on alcohol while hiking in Oregon. We DID get attacked and Eric almost died.
Let me explain.
It began so well
Our trip to Oregon began on a perfect note. The flight to Eugene was smooth and the weather was sunny and dry (which is rare in April). Our drive along Hwy 126 through the Siuslaw National Forest was beautiful, especially along Sweet Creek Falls where we stopped to hike. The road to the trailhead is long and steep but it’s a gorgeous drive and can be done in a small car. We LOVED this trail and it’s a MUST HIKE if you’re ever in those neck of the woods.
Finding our Zen
We arrived at Ocean Haven, a place that cast its spell on us when we visited in 2020. The lodging isn’t luxurious by any means and the spaces are small but the location within Tokatee Klootchman Natural Area is AMAZING and they have everything you need to survive in comfort. We booked their Shag’s Nest and enjoyed our own private ocean views, sipping coffee, reading books and watching the storms roll in. Our room had a shelf full of books about hiking, meditation and local history so we felt completely at home. The only dissonance in my Zen moments were when Eric would leap out of the chair to try and capture a photo of the elusive bald eagles that call this place home. I told him he was exhibiting similar behavior to the characters in Grumpy Old Men, only he was “eagle hunter” instead of “catfish hunter.”
Learning lessons in icy rain
Eric and I both love the rain and we anticipated hiking in it, but we didn’t expect that rain would turn into ice. While hiking Amanda’s Trail from Yachats to Cape Perpetua Lookout, we did just that. It was a light hail and made a nice “tink tink tink” sound when it hit the ground. The entire trail was beautiful, beginning with ocean views, a suspension bridge and a sacred memorial area commemorating a tragic story that symbolizes many similar tales in our nation’s history.
Before this trip I had never heard of Amanda de Cuy or the trail that carries her name. Amanda was a Coos woman who was blind, abandoned by her husband then forcefully separated from her daughter and forced to march with others in her tribe along what is called the Oregon Trail of Tears (which ended in Yachats). To hike this trail was a humbling experience.
You’ll find a good history of the Coos people here.
Wisdom received
I rarely buy books, especially while traveling. They’re heavy and I can get them free at my library. At Books’n’Bears in Florence, something compelled me to buy a copy of Nick Offerman’s Where the Deer and the Antelope Play. I had no idea it delved into our nation’s complicated relationship between our national parks and the expulsion of our native peoples from their land. This was the book I was reading before and after we hiked Amanda’s Trail. Wisdom comes to those whose minds are open and mine was perfectly prepped to receive the messages from these stories. Like so many Americans, I take immense pride in our park systems and any place that makes nature accessible to all. Not once have I pondered the fact that our gain was someone else’s loss, until now. This doesn’t tarnish my love of country or our parks – it engenders a deeper appreciation for the privilege we have and instills a deeper desire to respect and protect the land and those who have always fought to do the same.
Near death in Florence
Speaking of Florence, that lovely town on the Oregon coast is where Eric almost met his demise. I might be slightly exaggerating the peril (I’m half Irish after all), but in the moment I really did fear that I would lose him. We were hiking the Dunes Trail at Sutton Lake when we stumbled upon a very angry swarm of bees. Eric is HIGHLY allergic to anything that stings and carries an EPI pen wherever he goes. One sting is enough to send him to the hospital, multiple stings could kill him. I watched him walk through that swarm, clinging to him like something out of a horror movie. I could see them hitting his bright blue rain jacket as he desperately tried to get away.
They eventually left him alone, at which point he unzipped his jacket and I could see him struggling to remain calm. With EPI pen and Benadryl in hand, we inspected his neck and face to see if he’d been stung. We waited and focused on slowing our out-of-control heart rates. The scene from My Girl and stories I’ve read about of hikers who died on the trail due to anaphylaxis kept playing in my head. Miraculously Eric was not stung and the experience was just another reminder to fully appreciate and never waste this precious time we are given.
On a lighter note
Before the dunes we hiked Heceta Head and Hobbit’s Beach trails. At the end of Hobbit’s Beach there was a section where people have decorated the trail with shells and other natural treasures. We had fun dressing up Coco and letting her frolic in the magical wonderland. For those who don’t know Coco, she’s a crocheted avocado given to us by our 3-yr old Godchild/niece. Coco goes with us on every trip and travels with her own prop bag. Pretty sure she gets more attention on our social media than we do.
An easy ending in Depoe Bay
We ended our trip in Depoe Bay, our second favorite town on the Oregon coast. Like Yachats, Depoe Bay has several excellent trails to hike (most of which we’ve hiked in previous trips) and they have the best clam chowder in Oregon at Gracie’s Sea Hag. This time we explored the Depoe Bay Trail that begins in town, winds itself along the rocky cliffs and connects with the Oregon Coast Trail. We followed it north past Boiler Bay Scenic Viewpoint and turned around at Fogarty Creek.
We also attempted the Knoll to God’s Thumb hike. The Knoll is a large grassy hill that sits atop Lincoln City. The trek began in town where we parked at Roads End Recreation Area and headed up the steep terraced neighborhood until we reached the trailhead. It was a muddy climb all the way to the end where God’s Thumb juts out into the Pacific Ocean. We got close to the divine phalange but stopped just before the tip because it was too steep and slippery to attempt. Neither one of us wanted to throw away the life granted us after the bee fiasco.
We headed back to the beach parking lot to eat lunch. While scarfing down our sandwiches, I struck up a conversation with an older man and his sister who were doing beach clean-up. Armed with rock hunting scoop and litter stick, the man told us he had recently become disabled and the daily beach walks was helping him learn to walk again. He had recently moved in with his sister so she could help care for him and you could see how genuinely happy they were in their companionship and to be doing something useful.
Lots of lessons to be learned in Oregon and while traveling, if we only open ourselves to do so.
Have we convinced you yet to visit Oregon? You’ll find our Best Hikes on the Oregon Coast on Trips to Walkabout.