The word bucolic doesn’t capture the quiet magic of our scenic drive along the Loire Valley, as we leave the Brittany coast and make our way toward Paris. Here, the beauty lies in the simple pleasures: wild poppies and purple blooms spilling over the stone embankments of a river far wider than I expected, horses grazing under shady trees surrounded by fields of yellow wildflowers. This stretch of France is a fascinating mix of fortified chateaus and simple country life.
Lunch with Ex-Pats in Saumur
One of my favorite tour operators in France lives on the Loire River and I’ve never had a chance to meet them in person. So I’m delighted when Mallory and Ben Nettleton, owners of France of a Lifetime, meet us in their hometown of Saumur for lunch. We talk for 3 hours, discussing life as an ex-pat, how we both arrived in the tourism industry, and favorite movie quotes. These are good people and they provide some amazing experiences for their clients.
Chateau de Brézé
At Mallory’s suggestion, we visit Chateau de Brézé and instantly see what the fuss is all about. This chateau is off the major river route and is often overlooked, but those “in-the-know” see its glory. At first glance, the elegant Renaissance-style manor seems charming but typical, until we descend beneath and discover an entire fortified underground world carved into the tuffeau stone. There are moats deeper than any in Europe, secret tunnels, stables, and wine cellars—all hidden beneath the château walls. It’s a dream come true for this girl who spent her childhood drawing castles with moats. Walking these shadowy passageways, we get a rare glimpse into the defensive heart of castle life, and it leaves a much deeper impression than the more polished chateaus.
Azay-le-Rideau
We base ourselves for a few days in Azay-le-Rideau, a quiet and charming village that feels refreshingly untouristed despite its postcard-perfect chateau. Our centrally located apartment—hosted by the exceptionally kind Thomas—turns out to be one of our favorite stays in France: spacious shower, cozy seating, great lighting, and a welcome gift of homemade plum wine.
Thomas also steers us to L’Épine, a phenomenal restaurant housed in a converted school building and named after the wild berries the owner once foraged with his father. Eric goes all-in on the six-course menu inspiration, while I opt for three courses—both flawless. From Azay, we easily explore nearby chateaus by day and return to peaceful streets by night. Just one tip: parking is scarce and confusing, so book a place that provides a pass or private spot.
A little-known secret: the gardens at Château d’Azay-le-Rideau are free to enter during the final hour of the day, after the chateau itself has closed. It’s the perfect time for a peaceful stroll—moat, lake, cypress trees, and blooming flowers all arranged like a painting around the fairytale castle at its center.
Chinon
While the interior of the Fortress of Chinon is fairly simple—mostly replicas and exhibits—it’s the dramatic exterior, wildflowers, and surrounding trees that make it a stunning place to explore. We’re especially impressed by the interactive features designed for children, including hands-on catapults and tablets with games and augmented reality. Also highly recommend walking the medieval lanes that wind around the fortress. Chinon is lovely, especially along the River Vienne, which you can kayak.
Fontevraud Abbey
We visit Fontevraud Abbey, one of the largest surviving monastic complexes in Europe and final resting place of Eleanor of Aquitaine, her husband Henry II, and their son Richard the Lionheart. Unlike many religious sites, Fontevraud’s vast Romanesque buildings have served many lives—first as a double monastery for both monks and nuns, later as a prison under Napoleon. Today, the abbey has been beautifully restored and reimagined as a cultural center.
We’re struck by the haunting simplicity of the abbey church, where the tombs of the Plantagenets rest in silence under the vaulted stone ceiling. In the cloisters, we find peace among sculpted archways and tidy gardens. Modern art installations are scattered throughout the complex, blending old and new in unexpected ways. It’s a place that feels both sacred and forward-looking.
Château d'Ussé
We can’t resist a stop at Château d’Ussé, the storybook castle that inspired Charles Perrault’s Sleeping Beauty. With its fairytale turrets and forested setting, this chateau feels plucked from the pages of a classic tale—and for someone like me, who collects fairy tales from around the world, it is an irresistible detour.
Though the interiors are a bit theatrical, the real magic is the atmosphere: shadowy staircases, manicured terraces, troglodytes, and wooded paths that make it easy to imagine a princess lost in slumber or a prince arriving at the gates.
Château de Chenonceau
To beat the worst of the crowds, we arrive just before opening and head straight through the tree-lined promenade toward one of the most iconic chateaus in the Loire Valley. Known as the Château des Dames for the influential women who shaped its history, Chenonceau spans the River Cher in a graceful arc of Renaissance architecture and reflection pools.
We explore the lavish interiors, from Catherine de Medici’s study to the gallery that stretches across the bridge—once used as a hospital during WWI. The kitchens, with copper pots and the strong smell of fresh herbs, intrigue Eric but there are WAY too many people crammed into this little space.
Outside, we stroll the formal gardens designed for Diane de Poitiers and Catherine de Medici, each with its own symmetry and style. The setting is elegant and serene in the early morning light, with fresh blooms and fewer people. We leave just as the crowds get thick, walking into town for quick lunch at Creperie Le Medicis.
Amboise
Our stay at the charming Manoir de la Maison Blanche in Amboise is a highlight. The hosts, a young couple who recently took over running the inn from her mother, make us feel right at home. Having lived in the UK for years—he’s originally from there—their easy English hospitality is refreshing after a month of travel in France.
Château Royal d’Amboise
Maybe it’s because we’ve seen so many wondrous chateaus already, but our visit to Château Royal d’Amboise is my least favorite. While the views over the Loire are lovely and the chapel where Leonardo da Vinci is buried is meaningful, the interior feels sparse and less engaging compared to others, and the atmosphere a bit too polished to feel truly historic.
Château du Clos Lucé
In Amboise, we walk to Château du Clos Lucé and step into Leonardo da Vinci’s world. This was his home for the last three years of his life, and the rooms still carry a quiet, personal feel. His bedroom, study, and kitchen are all thoughtfully restored, with details that make it easy to imagine him working here.
What really delights us is the park. Scattered throughout the wooded paths and grassy lawns are full-scale models of DaVinci’s inventions—bridges, tanks, flying machines—many of them interactive. It’s part garden, part outdoor museum, and we end up spending far more time here than expected. The whole place feels playful and deeply connected to nature—a perfect tribute to a mind that never stopped exploring.
Our leisurely journey along the Loire Valley, from Brittany’s coastal charm to the chateau-studded countryside, offers the perfect blend of history, beauty, and quiet moments we’ll always cherish. As we leave the river behind and make our way toward the grandeur of Versailles and the bustle of Paris, a new kind of adventure awaits—one steeped in royal excess and the irresistible rhythm of city life.
If you missed our previous stories about France, you’ll find them here:
