This is the third in a series of posts about walking Sifnos, Greece. If you missed part I, click HERE. If you missed part II, click HERE. Otherwise, keep reading..
Trail 4 was the one I was most excited about, BEFORE we hiked it! It had secret beaches along the way & ended with a great beach town. What I didn’t account for, however, was that most of the hike was HOT & DRY! It was like walking through a desert. And the climbing, yikes! But I’m getting ahead of myself, let me backtrack.
Platis Gialos to Vathi, Trail 4
We took a taxi to Platis Gialos, a very popular beach village in the summer but it was practically a ghost town while we were there. I took a quick photo of the beach, but we didn’t have time to explore the town. We had slept late & the sun was already burning down on us, so we began walking Trail 4 as soon as we got there. We didn’t have time to do the entire loop, so when the trail divided we took the southern coastal route (left). The very beginning of the trail was boring but quickly got interesting as we began to climb rocky, slanted pathways. We were actually walking at a 45 degree sideways angle at one point because the trail was so tilted. When we needed to stop & catch a breath, we had gorgeous views behind us of Platis Gialos.
Platis Gialos beach
beginning of Trail 4
already tired
Trail 4
looking back at Platis Gialos
rocky trail
rocky trail
The trail got even more interesting as we headed further southwest, with juniper trees more abundant & the promise of water always teasing us ahead. The trail remained rocky, however, so even when we got close to the water there was no easy way to reach it. As we headed inland again, the trail opened up to olive groves & an old abandoned “mansion” called Moussia. To Aimee’s delight, Moussia was now home to several resident sheep, happily munching away amidst rotten timber & falling stones. We snacked under olive trees here. Starved is more apt, since we were not prepared that day, having brought very little water or food. I blamed Sifnos, saying we had “fallen under her spell of contentment & forgot to plan.”
Aimee
Eric
Aimee excited about sheep
Moussia
rocky trail
small bay before Moussia
very rocky trail
small bay before Moussia
Moussia
Moussia
Moussia
Moussia
sheep at Moussia
Just as the grumpies were beginning to appear, we reached Fykiada, a beach that is only accessible via trail or boat. It was magical! There was only one couple there when we arrived, & they were both naked as jay birds! Naturism is apparently allowed on that beach. The highlight of my day was when the man (I’m guessing late 60s) got out of the freezing water & despite the frigid temps was rather impressive. My sister (who is a nurse) almost had an apoplexy. I responded simply with “and now we know why they look like such a happy couple.” 🙂
Aimee & I swam while Eric took photos (NOT of the couple) & soaked his weary feet. Yes, the water was cold but it felt wonderful after a long hot hike. A large guided group of French hikers soon arrived & we had fun watching them snorkel & chat merrily with each other. When we left the beach & looked back, someone in the group was playing a lute & a topless woman was dancing on the beach. Like I said — magical.
Fykiada beach
Fykiada beach
Fykiada beach
Fykiada beach
Trail 4 at Fykiada
Fykiada
Leaving Fykiada & heading north up the coast was TOUGH! The trail climbed over mountains & one part of the trail required a little scrambling up rocks. We were starving at this point & probably would have enjoyed the hike more with proper nourishment. That part of the trail had some of the most amazing views of the entire trip, & we want to go back just to complete that hike. When we reached the point where 4A verges west, we took it so we could end our day at Vathi. The trail became a road — not an interesting walk at that point, but well worth the views coming down into the village.
scrambling
Trail 4 at Fykiada
walking down to Vathi
Trail 4 just after Fykiada
Fykiada
Dancers at Fykiada
looking back at Fykiada
made it to the top!
Trail 4 & 4A meet
Trail 4A
Trail 4A
Trail 4A
Trail 4A
walking down to Vathi
walking down to Vathi
can you see the trail?
walking down to Vathi
Vathi was a really cool beach town, spread out & divided into distinct areas. We stopped first for lunch at Manolis, where we had grilled octopus, stuffed squid & fresh clams while watching the sea just inches away from our feet. We really liked the staff at Manolis, they were cozy & friendly & gave us free dessert. We spent at least an hour there before walking further around the beach, past the church & stopped for coffee & desserts at Tsikali.
If you want a place to hang out for hours at Vathi, To Tsikali is the place to do it. Great table service, shady trees, & a quiet spot of beach that feels tucked away.
my poor feet
Vathi
Vathi
Manolis
Aimee at Manolis
Aimee eating clams
Vathi
Vathi
Dessert at Tsikali
Vathi
enjoying fresh octopus tentacles
Vathi
Vathi
Vathi beach
Clams at Manolis
Stuffed squid at Manolis
Grilled octopus at Manolis
kataifi
Vathi beach
Vathi
Tsikali
Cake at Tsikali
Vathi sign at bus stop
We called for a taxi & waited at the bus stop. Once in Apollonia, we stopped in at the local bookstore to purchase Sharon Blomfield’s book about Sifnos — Aimee needed reading material for our well-deserved beach day the following morning. They had used books in all sorts of condition in various languages. Next time I go, maybe I’ll bring a suitcase of gently used books for them. They looked like they didn’t get very many new English titles 🙂
