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Slow travel, Travel Diary, United States

Road Trip West: Louisiana to Idaho

October 20, 2024 No Comments

woman looking down at mountain lake in Colorado

A 45-day journey Begins

After last year’s adventure in Newfoundland, Eric and I are back on the road – this time heading west to explore Vancouver Island and British Columbia’s southwest. Our route takes us through unexplored territory: Idaho, Wyoming and South Dakota. But as with any epic journey, plans have a way of changing.

Austin: A Bittersweet Reunion

Our first stop brings us to Eric’s aunt and uncle in Austin. Jon and Trudy are those rare souls who make everyone feel at home. We haven’t seen them since Eric’s mom passed in December, and it feels healing to reconnect and laugh again. The evening brings Harry Potter at the Alamo Drafthouse (complete with toy rats and tattoos), followed by a comical run-in with local law enforcement reminding Trudy to turn on her headlights when driving at night. The Austin clan joins us for our final night of wine, stories and laughter.

Through the Desert to Santa Fe

The dusty expanse of northwest Texas and New Mexico stretches before us. While some find beauty in deserts, I’m counting the miles to our oasis: Santa Fe. Eric discovers cookbook heaven at Kitchenality, a used kitchen shop supporting meals for the homebound, and we enjoy a fabulous lunch at Clafoutis before heading to my aunt and uncle’s for the night.

A visit with my aunt reveals unexpected parallels between her and Mom. From the outside view, they seem to have nothing in common and have certainly led very different lives. But they are both fiercely independent, love music and history, have a rebellious streak lurking behind their southern charm, and have always had a global perspective. All traits they share with their mother. After an afternoon of aperitifs in the courtyard and an excellent dinner at Arroyo Vino, we talk politics until the men retreat to bed. My aunt is as sharp-witted and classy as ever, she would have made an excellent politician.

Colorado's Mountain Magic

The drive to Colorado brings wildlife encounters – a near-miss with a prairie dog and a brown bear sighting near Pagosa Springs. This spa town, with its riverside trails and hot springs, deserves a return visit in the quiet pre-ski season.

Trip Inspo: The San Juan Skyway loop through southern Colorado connects Durango, Silverton, Ouray, Ridgway, Telluride, Dolores and Cortez. While doable in 7 hours, these towns deserve deeper exploration.

The San Juan Mountains take our breath away – literally. At 11,000 feet, Red Mountain Pass tests our altitude tolerance, but the spectacular views at Idarado Mine and Molas Pass make the headache worthwhile. Forests of aspen give way to rainbow-colored mountainsides, culminating in the stunning valley town of Ouray. Despite the crowds, it’s earned a spot on our “must return” list.

Walking the dusty roads of historic Silverton reminds us that much of America is still very much the Wild West. Silverton hosts the annual skijoring event, when horses pull skiers through the streets and insanity ensues.

We spend a night at an Airbnb room in Montrose and enjoy a wonderful visit with our host, Joey. Eric warms our dinner in her kitchen as we swap stories. Her husband is a talented landscape photographer, specializing in dark sky photography, and his artwork decorates the walls of their home. She and I are the same age and she wants to know how we’re able to travel for such a long time. So we tell her, and thus ensues a lengthy conversation about turning dreams into a reality.

Staying at an Airbnb hosted by avid hikers is always fun, especially when they provide a wall of maps and hiking guides!

Idaho Bound

Smoke from Idaho forest fires forces us to abandon our plans to hike in the Sawtooth Mountains, redirecting us through Utah, southeastern Idaho and Montana. Anticipating a long, dry, boring driving through Utah, Eric finds an oasis in the desert. We try dried watermelon and canary melons for the first time at Dunham Melons, a roadside stand in Green River.

We spend a night in the tiny town of Malad City, Idaho (excellent pizza and ice cream to be had there!).

It’s a long day of driving through smoke-filled skies, but we get glimpses of beautiful landscapes as we pass Montana’s Beaverhead-Deerlodge National Forest and the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness. Skies clear just as we arrive into Coeur d’Alene.

Rain accompanies our entire stay in Coeur d’Alene, but we make the most of it with walks through historic neighborhoods along the lake and thrift store shopping. Eric’s cookbook collection grows suspiciously larger – perhaps it’s time to open a culinary lending library.

We like the vibe here, unpretentious and youthful. It feels like a small town but it boasts good restaurants, health food markets and plenty of outdoor activities. I’d move here just for the hand pies at Bean & Pie!

Next up: Our journey continues through British Columbia, where lakes, mountains and unexpected discoveries await.

Slow travel, Travel Diary, United States

Blueberry Hill, the Vermont Inn with a Living Heartbeat

August 6, 2023 No Comments

As I write my thoughts about our recent trip to Blueberry Hill Inn in Goshen, Vermont, I am overwhelmed with a profound sense of having experienced something rare. Something that is incredibly difficult to put into words, but I’ll try.

What makes Blueberry Hill Inn special

The building has a living heartbeat.

This is a direct quote from Eric, after a lengthy conversation on what makes Blueberry Hill Inn so special. And he’s absolutely right, the building and grounds feel alive, imbued with their own character and stories. Our list of “beautiful landscape, old world charm, friendly people, delicious food, long history” — all of these apply but they also apply to other places we’ve stayed in the past. But this place is different, and to understand why, I need to start with the original dreamers.

“When two people have such a love, have such a desire to make something work, it works.” Excerpt from Nothing Whatever To Do (1956) by Elsie and John Masterton, original innkeepers of Blueberry Hill Inn.

Blueberry Hill Inn has a rich history dating back to 1813 when the original house was built. Over the years, it has undergone several additions, including hundreds of blueberry bushes, miles of trails through lush forest and an outdoor center that oversees the all-season activities that Blueberry Hill Inn has to offer. We enjoyed learning about the original innkeepers, Elsie and John Masterton, by reading Elsie’s book which kept us laughing and gave us a good sense of why this place is so different from other inns.

It’s because it was created with love, dreams for a better life, and lots of hard work and compromise.

We loved Elsie’s book so much, we ordered a copy as soon as we got home. It tells the story of an attorney and his wife who quit their successful careers in New York to purchase a 1,000 acre wooded property in Vermont, with dreams of turning their mountain into a ski resort. Elsie’s love for her dreamer husband and determination to learn how to cook and adapt to a simple country life while opening her home to strangers reminds me so much of my Mom and the way I grew up.

“Our guests were the kind of people who came for the reason that there was nothing whatever to do, they spent the busiest kind of a day; it was over before they knew it, what with the talk and the beauty and the companionship of others just like them.” ~ Elsie

Upon arriving at Blueberry Hill Inn, we were greeted with fresh flowers in our room, handpicked from the gardens and wild patches surrounding the inn. The sunroom served as the heart of the inn, where Eric perused Elsie’s book and the inn’s cookbook collection and I found inspiration for my writing. It was here, amidst the sunroom’s cozy ambiance, that we had some of the most meaningful conversations with Shari and her charismatic team.

Shari is a treasure trove of stories about the inn’s history and her deep-rooted connection to it. We loved hearing her stories about the inn, how she began working there in the 80s and how entwined her life became with the inn to the point where she is now the owner. Shari felt like a big sister, showing interest in what I’m trying to achieve with Trips to Walkabout and offering advice and encouragement. She’s a force of nature, determination and hard work written all over her face, along with plenty of laugh lines showing a life well-lived. She talked candidly with us about the challenges and joys of running an inn with such a large property. I am in awe of this woman.

The team at the inn, including Olivia, Allison, Nate, and Shari’s shadow, the large lovable Remi, made us feel like we were part of a big family. We had the pleasure of hearing Olivia’s inspiring views on sustainable food practices and hospitality, leaving us with hope for the future of tourism. And we most certainly enjoyed the mouthwatering comfort foods created by Nate and Allison. I had to pull Eric away from the kitchen so they could get their work done, he could have happily discussed food with them all day. My favorite was their charcuterie board and fresh nectarine salad, lovingly prepared for us on a day when the kitchen was closed.

Blueberry Hill Inn attracts the kind of people who come to enjoy the simple joys of life and genuine companionship.

From the moment we arrived, a sense of familiarity and casual comfort embraced us. Everything about this place says “welcome, come as you are, leave your worries and pretensions behind.” I can see why Blueberry Hill has such a loyal following, why couples like Ed and Ellen return 17 times. In a world that so often seems fake and cold, this place is the exact opposite. Much like our stay with Kim in Fleur de Lys, Shari and her team reminded us how powerful this simple truth can be:

When you open your heart to strangers and greet them with a desire to listen and learn, you will almost always be rewarded with the pure joy of witnessing someone as they truly are. This is how meaningful connections are made. This is how we experience the best part of being human.

During our stay, Eric surprised me by fully embracing the charms of Vermont’s countryside. He willingly walked into the valley of death so that I could hike the trails of Blueberry Hill. Witnessing him pause to admire water lilies by the pond, wildflowers that he usually avoids because they mean stinging insects, brought a smile to my face. He was no more immune to the magic than I was.

“It was our home. It was their home. We were sharers of the same thing, of the same aura of simplicity.” ~ Elsie

As we reluctantly prepared to leave Blueberry Hill Inn, we took the back roads, savoring every moment and every breathtaking view. Vermont had woven its spell on us and we found ourselves daydreaming about the possibility of living here. Our stay at Blueberry Hill was an unforgettable experience, reminding us of the power of genuine human connections and the beauty of embracing simplicity. It’s not just an inn; it’s a sanctuary that welcomes you with open arms, urging you to be your authentic self, stripped bare of the modern world’s burdens and distractions.

The spirit of Elsie and John Masterton is still alive at this inn, and it has many more stories yet to tell.

Our stay at Blueberry Hill Inn was part of a 50-day Road Trip to Canada.

Canada, Slow travel, Travel Diary, United States

Road Trip to Canada

July 2, 2023 2 Comments

Subaru Outback at sunset parked at a Hipcamp in New York

Our 50-day road trip to Canada has come to an end. This was the longest trip Eric and I have taken so far and we were curious to see how we’d feel about long term travel. I was also testing my body to see how long days of sustained travel would affect me and whether or not I’d experience rheumatoid arthritis flare-ups.

Conclusion? We LOVE long term travel! It’s officially a lifestyle for us and while it comes with its challenges, the rewards far outweigh any discomforts or risks.

I’ve been sharing our stories about each Canadian destination during this trip, including Prince Edward Island and Cape Breton, and later this month I’ll share our Newfoundland tales. For this post, I’d like to try something different and share my journal entries during the road trip to and from Canada. This will give you a glimpse into how we managed such a long trip on a budget, how we incorporated daily walks into the driving days and how we chose private room lodging to create a more enriching experience.

Day 1: Louisiana to Alabama

Loading up our Subaru for a long journey is easy when you’ve got an engineer and librarian on board. Everything we need for 50 days on the road, including our mattresses for car camping and a Ninja blender so we can attempt to eat as healthy as possible. Eric retrofitted the trunk so we can fit a full-size spare tire (good idea because we’ll need it before we reach Canada).

Driving through Concordia and Tensas parishes, crops for miles and some of the prettiest countryside we’ve seen in our home state. The little Mississippi Delta town of Ferriday is special. It’s falling apart and looks forgotten but some of the old homes are still quite beautiful. We stop at Simmons-Wright General Store in Kewanee, where you can get a cup of coffee for 79 cents, homemade sweet tea with a burger and fries, a big hug and a kiss on the cheek, some 8-tracks and old romance novels. Think Ollivander’s Wand Shop, Mississippi style.

We car camp in Alabama our first night at a Hipcamp outside of Birmingham. Feeling confident about this car camping thing until I go to shower. There are silos with showers and toilets and I have everything I need…except a towel. Nix the shower and just wash my face. With damp clumps of toilet paper sticking to my face, I crawl onto our comfy mattress and sleep in the same clothes I wore today, which smell like smoke because we ate at a barbecue joint for dinner. Something wakes us up around 2:00 a.m. that makes our car rock, not sure if it’s a large cat or a bear. No wind, 80°F and high humidity. I go to bed sticky with swollen joints, thinking this car camping may not be a repeat experience.

Day 2: Alabama to West Virginia

Wake up to a soft, foggy sunrise and surprisingly feel well rested (but still grimy). Pass through the adorable town of Collinsville which is bustling with some big market event. Stop in Farragut just outside of Knoxville for a walking break. Farragut has two parks with great walking trails. We choose the park next to the library and walk a mile under shady trees.

Our travel this year is planned to gently take us outside of our comfort zone in terms of minimalism and control. I can already feel this trip stripping away my need to cling to what society says we should have. After one night of hip camping and what I must confess was not the most pleasant experience, we arrive at one of the quirkiest Airbnbs we’ve ever stayed at. It is a whimsical fairy tale cottage that looks to be made out of everything repurposed. Nothing matches, nothing is straight or right angled, door knobs fall off, the kitchen chairs fall apart if you’re not gentle. Fresh zucchini bread and homemade dandelion jam are waiting for us and in this moment we are both ridiculously happy. The bed must be from the 18th century because it is solid as a rock and seems in tune with Victorian sensibilities. I don’t imagine baby-making to be very enjoyable in this bed. But it’s clean and the linens are soft and warm. I can see a pretty pond with handmade boats and the West Virginia mountains all around. Our sound machine for the evening is the loud steady droning of bullfrogs. Sure, we could have stayed in a hotel tonight with a deluxe mattress and modern appliances, but that would not have fed my imagination or connected me with nature as this place has.

Day 3: West Virginia to New York

Dogwoods and rhododendron are in full bloom as we drive through West Virginia. I gawk at the impressive homes and gorgeous landscapes near Grandview and begin collecting roadside names to use for future writing. My favorites are: Muddlety, Puddy Run and Bullfeathers (my new curse word of choice). We stop at New River Gorge National Park to walk and change a tire. This park is stunning and because it’s so new to the national park system it’s still considered a hidden gem.

Can now say I’ve experienced the kitschiness of Punxsutawney, Pennsylvania. We have a quiet dinner at Punxy Phil’s which has friendly service and average food. Take the requisite photos of various groundhog statues. Drive past the Kane Family Drive-in Theater which catches our eye with its 1950s spaceship entrance. Today we’ve learned that Pennsylvanians are fanatics about their drive-ins. Every town we pass has a drive-in diner or ice cream hut that’s packed to the brim.

Sometimes I question our lodging choices. Like the cottage rental next to a porn shop in Kauai, this evening’s Hipcamp is giving me similar vibes as we pass eight marijuana dispensaries on the way to a farm in New York. Per instructions, we park our car at the top of a hill just behind the barn. I trek my way through questionable mud to the bathroom which is connected to the barn. It’s a small space with compost toilet and shower that reminds me of a college dorm, but it’s clean and I now have a towel so my grooming routine is much improved! The farm owners have created a simple space with thoughtful touches. There’s an honesty jar next to homemade soaps, fresh produce and jams, eggs, frozen meat and activity books for kids.

The temperature drops to 35°F and I’m glad. I may not want to get out of the car to pee in the morning but at least my joints won’t swell like they did in Alabama. The only thing that disrupts our sleep is the Great Pyrenees which circles our car and barks every hour. We can hear him covering the entire perimeter of the farm in a perfect pattern that he repeats throughout the night. In this way we become a part of the farm’s cycle. We fall asleep and wake to a beautiful pink sunrise over the New York countryside.

Day 4: New York to New Hampshire

An early start this morning means we see the Amish farmers out in their buggies and the women watering their gardens. Driving through the Allegheny countryside, I’m surprised to see that the trees still have a variety of color in May. Farm stands everywhere selling firewood, maple syrup, eggs and bundles of pansies. We stop to walk along the lake at Watkins Glen County Park, where we watch Canadian geese herding their young chicks.

Ithaca is one big traffic jam so we pass through without stopping, but the county roads from Ithaca to Cooperstown are calm and rotate between farmland and state protected forests. There are so many white dandelions flying around that it gives the impression of snowfall. I’m sad to see so many beautiful old homes in complete disrepair along this drive. It’s a stark reminder that so much of rural America is slowly being lost to rot and neglect.

We stop in Cooperstown to eat a picnic lunch on Lake Otsego and sit in the seats at Doubleday Field. I knew Cooperstown was a baseball town, but no one ever mentioned the beautiful historic homes and the lake.

In the evening, we dine on burgers while we watch kids explore a small creek behind Wahoo’s Eatery in Wilmington, Vermont. This place is definitely worth including in an itinerary, both for its excellent food and fun outdoor vibe. As we approach Concord, we see a search and rescue party and find out later that a hiker got lost in the mountains. Our Airbnb hostess said it happens quite often.

Day 5: New Hampshire to Maine

I am in love with Concord, New Hampshire. The town and surrounding neighborhoods are postcard pretty and I can see why our Airbnb owner decided to move here. We visit with her over coffee and she earns my respect when she says “there are two kinds of winter people, those that complain about the weather and those that learn to love winter sports.” She’s a school librarian who has traveled extensively across the world. We especially love her stories about meeting her husband at an airport and why they chose to raise their children abroad.

Cherry blossoms and dogwood trees are in full bloom as we head into Freeport, Maine. Home of L.L. Bean, Freeport is a great place to visit if you love shopping and historic buildings. We’re here for bread from When Pigs Fly Bakery. Maybe we could come back, they’re hiring part-time seasonal bakers. Bread in hand, now we need coffee and much to our delight we find a great pour-over at Green Tree Coffee and Tea, where we chat with the owner about his days living in New Orleans.

Acadia National Park is closed for the season, which is fine by us because it means we can walk Bar Harbor’s Shore Path without crowds, sharing space with like-minded travelers who appreciate this seaside town during the off-season.

The rugged side of Maine quickly reveals itself as we drive to Bangor, where we spend a night in a fully equipped VRBO. Ahhh, the luxury of a full kitchen, private bath and laundry.

Day 6: Maine to Prince Edward Island

Our morning drive begins with a classic Maine visual. A scraggly haired man in mud-covered Carhartt boots, wearing a camo kilt while working on his campervan at a gas station that looks like it closed in the 1950s. Nothing but wilderness and cannabis shops until we reach the Canadian border. Short trees, dense thicket and a few small meandering rivers. Really not much to see for travelers and I can see why this part of Maine is appealing to hermits and anyone wanting to escape society.

We cross the border in Calais and it only takes six minutes. Our border guard once lived in Newfoundland and he’s excited that it’s our final destination. St. Andrews, New Brunswick, is a precious seaside town with its colorful houses and perfectly preserved historic shops and lighthouse. Deer are roaming around the visitor’s center and it’s a sunny 52°F day so people are outside sunbathing along Passamaquoddy Bay.

Our entertainment today is trying to guess what the Canadian road signs mean. Symbols that we’ve come across so far: hand holding a pottery vase (artisans), bed and an egg (bed and breakfast), spinning loom (antiques), people standing in a barn waving (agritours), man standing on a ledge hanging from a tree (still clueless about this one). Lunch is fried clams and seafood chowder at New Brunswick’s best road stop, Ossie’s Lunch. They have clean bathrooms and enough picnic tables to host some serious parties. Just make sure to bring cash because they don’t accept cards.

Today’s drive is the most boring of our trip so far. It’s a long drive to Prince Edward Island, where we’re staying in Charlottetown for the week. We’re in a basement apartment with a noisy toddler above but how wonderful it feels to be settled in one place with a kitchen!

Days 7-12: Prince Edward Island

See PEI Notes from an Anne of Green Gables Fangirl.

Days 13-23: Cape Breton

See Trails and Tales of Cape Breton and Cape Breton beyond the Trails.

Stay tuned for the rest of our 50-day trip to Canada, including our time in Newfoundland and the wonderful people we meet on our journey home.

Road Trip West: Louisiana to Idaho

A 45-day journey Begins

Austin: A Bittersweet Reunion

Through the Desert to Santa Fe

Colorado's Mountain Magic

Idaho Bound

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Blueberry Hill, the Vermont Inn with a Living Heartbeat

What makes Blueberry Hill Inn special

Like this:

Road Trip to Canada

Day 1: Louisiana to Alabama

Day 2: Alabama to West Virginia

Day 3: West Virginia to New York

Day 4: New York to New Hampshire

Day 5: New Hampshire to Maine

Day 6: Maine to Prince Edward Island

Days 7-12: Prince Edward Island

Days 13-23: Cape Breton

Like this:

Road Trip West: Louisiana to Idaho

A 45-day journey Begins

Austin: A Bittersweet Reunion

Through the Desert to Santa Fe

Colorado's Mountain Magic

Idaho Bound

Share this:

Like this:

Blueberry Hill, the Vermont Inn with a Living Heartbeat

What makes Blueberry Hill Inn special

Share this:

Like this:

Road Trip to Canada

Day 1: Louisiana to Alabama

Day 2: Alabama to West Virginia

Day 3: West Virginia to New York

Day 4: New York to New Hampshire

Day 5: New Hampshire to Maine

Day 6: Maine to Prince Edward Island

Days 7-12: Prince Edward Island

Days 13-23: Cape Breton

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