Blisters will be the death of me!
You’d think Rheumatoid Arthritis would be what slows me down on hikes, but NOOOO…it’s always the simple bane of every hiker that takes me down. Our final hike on the island of Sifnos was not the trail we initially planned. We had hoped to walk Trail 6, which is a loop trail that takes you around the highest point of the island. Alas, I developed an open blister on the bottom of my foot & I knew I wasn’t “up to par” for that hike. We chose a relaxing coastal trail instead & the final destination made it all worth it.
Apollonia to Agios Sostis, via Trail 8
Trail 8 began in Artemenos, so we just walked the short distance from our lodging in Apollonia to the beginning of the trail. Artemenos was a beautiful village to walk through. The homes were larger & we saw more families there, so it felt less touristy. Several homes appeared to be locked & shuttered, so I assumed this neighborhood was popular with seasonal residents. It certainly had food aplenty to tempt the tourists! Probably the best bakery was there, Theodorou, but we never got to try it because they were closed each time we passed. Our “foodie’s top choice” was there as well, but let’s talk about hiking before we indulge…
Outskirts of Artemenos
Artemenos cemetary
Artemenos cemetary
Once out of town, the trail opened up to breathtaking coastal views & wildflowers. I loved seeing the familiar plants like red poppies, sage, & oleander — it reminded me of our years living in Victoria, Texas.
Most of the trail was easy, with wide paths that were less rocky than the other trails. We walked past tiny farms & were passed by a friendly sun-kissed man on a donkey who was much too busy to stop & chat. Eric walked through multiple death traps of swarming bees & wasps, & thankfully survived unscathed.
The end point of Trail 8 was the best part, walking down ancient steps to the remote Agios Sostis. The church was situated on a barren cliff, with a baptismal font at the edge of the cliff. There was no path to the font, just a wide field of rocks & thorny plants. And goats…mysterious goats who were there one minute & gone the next. The interior of the church was starkly beautiful & Aimee enjoyed reading the notes written by other visitors.
There were ancient mines on that cliff (purported to be as old as the Bronze Age), but we just thought they were a fissure in the rock. Note to self: READ THE TRAIL NOTES NEXT TIME 🙂
Old Mines
Agios Sostis
Agios Sostis
baptismal font
Agios Sostis
Agios Sostis
Agios Sostis
Agios Sostis
Agios Sostis
Iconic image nailed to tree
walking back up from Agios Sostis
Agios Sostis notebook
Trail 8 only took half a day to walk. So, like the good Greeks we were quickly evolving into, we spent the rest of the day eating!
When we arrived back in Apollonia, our hostess Agiliki had a platter of treats awaiting us. Following afternoon snacks & a nap, we walked back to Artemenos & ate at Cafe Mosaic. Every meal we had on Sifnos was wonderful, but Cafe Mosaic was definitely Eric’s favorite in terms of food. We ate there twice & I can remember moaning out loud the first time I tasted their eggplant dish…it was definitely a “When Harry Met Sally” moment.
If you’re lucky (like we were), you’ll visit Cafe Mosaic when the owner’s mother (or grandmother…we can’t remember) makes her special grape leaves. They melt in your mouth!
Afternoon snack
Cafe Mosaic
Aimee @ Cafe Mosaic
Cafe Mosaic sign
Cafe Mosaic painted tables
